649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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12-04-2016, 10:52 AM
#4606
Tech Apprentice
raved007, do you have a pic of the whole car I could see?
12-04-2016, 11:07 AM
#4608
yeah I got that part, what i am getting at is where are the standard towers actually better. So in short, is it a wash on surfaces that are smoother, smaller jumps, etc. Then as you go to what you described, the longer shocks are the ticket. So in short, if its a wash, they might as well just go long the whole time.
That's what I am wondering.
That's what I am wondering.
12-04-2016, 12:32 PM
#4610
when using the 31mm rear bodies/ and taller tower do you use the same shafts.
12-04-2016, 12:37 PM
#4611
Tech Apprentice
Exotek carbon fiber adjustable battery straps are out of stock and on backorder everywhere...I just copped the VRP aluminum battery strap w/ turnbuckle set up.
12-04-2016, 01:09 PM
#4613
If all these are correct I stand corrected and apologise if not I fear your a little too stiff
But each to there own
12-04-2016, 01:21 PM
#4614
heh heh ... 
More serious note, would you recommend going to say the next spring level softer if the surface is a bit more bumpy than what the setup was used on? thinking maybe next spring softer (already doing that on front) and say 50cst lighter.
More serious note, would you recommend going to say the next spring level softer if the surface is a bit more bumpy than what the setup was used on? thinking maybe next spring softer (already doing that on front) and say 50cst lighter.
12-04-2016, 01:28 PM
#4615
Ok. I run on dirty and clay. Should I get the carpet and buy a ball diff or go dirt and get the laydown. What's working best from racers opinion
12-04-2016, 01:55 PM
#4617
Yeah defo the fasted that way across the bumps is keeping your wheels on the ground driving forward.
12-04-2016, 02:24 PM
#4619
12-04-2016, 02:41 PM
#4620
Tech Apprentice