649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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11-20-2017, 02:30 AM
#7726
My electronics vote is either a Hobbywing or SMC speed control and a Trinity Monster 17.5.
11-20-2017, 02:46 AM
#7727
My vote is Hobbywing XR10 Pro and Rotor Ron (message R) on on facebook and let him know what the motor will be used for) for 17.5 and Hobbywing for mod motors. Hobbywing motors paired with a Hobbywing Esc has full sensor mode. My Hobbywing mod motors run very cool using this feature. Plus most mod motors have more than enough power no matter what brand. For a servo I like the Reedy servo's. I use the Reedy RS0806 LP.
11-20-2017, 06:30 AM
#7728
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
In regards to the esc question I use an XR10 Pro with fantom motors. I run in full Sensored mode with boost and turbo added as well.
11-20-2017, 06:33 AM
#7729
You are correct that it uses the same shafts. But you have forgot that a longer shock body allows that same shaft to extend further out of the body. Which results in a longer shock stroke. Meaning from the upper mount to the lower mount it gains in the total length over the short shock body.
11-20-2017, 03:38 PM
#7731
I just got back in to the hobby with a b6 question whats the difference in the 2 type of rear rims they have that is 61m and The other one are not,
11-20-2017, 03:44 PM
#7733
11-20-2017, 05:27 PM
#7734
Did a quick search of the thread and read through the wiki and couldn't quite find an answer to my question...
I have been on about a year and a half hiatus since before the B6 platforms came out. My local tracks are high-bite clay, carpet and astro. My B5M was alright, but needed a lot of help on the artificial surfaces.
I see it mentioned that the B6 is a great improvement over the standard B5M in high grip, but has anyone gone from a B5M with a laydown conversion? I'm toying with the idea of buying a laydown transmission for my B5M off of shapeways. Would this still be a competitive package on artificial surfaces? I think the shapeways transmissions are more cost effective than selling and then buying the whole new car, but I would like to justify the purchase first.
So can anyone who has driven a B5M laydown and the B6 comment on their performance? And which transmission did you run on the B5M?
Any insight is appreciated, thanks!
I have been on about a year and a half hiatus since before the B6 platforms came out. My local tracks are high-bite clay, carpet and astro. My B5M was alright, but needed a lot of help on the artificial surfaces.
I see it mentioned that the B6 is a great improvement over the standard B5M in high grip, but has anyone gone from a B5M with a laydown conversion? I'm toying with the idea of buying a laydown transmission for my B5M off of shapeways. Would this still be a competitive package on artificial surfaces? I think the shapeways transmissions are more cost effective than selling and then buying the whole new car, but I would like to justify the purchase first.
So can anyone who has driven a B5M laydown and the B6 comment on their performance? And which transmission did you run on the B5M?
Any insight is appreciated, thanks!
11-20-2017, 06:29 PM
#7735
Hey all, I am thinking of picking up an B64D to race this winter. It would be my first time racing 4wd buggy. A lot of people are saying though that the XB4 is a better buggy and I shouldn't waste my money on the B64D. For anyone here who has competed against the XRAY using the B64D did you really feel like that was the better buggy, and it was hard to compete against or am I just letting the marketing and other peoples opinions get to my head? I honestly would like to race the B64D but some of the comments have made it seem like it is more delicate than other kits.
11-20-2017, 06:59 PM
#7736
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
Hey all, I am thinking of picking up an B64D to race this winter. It would be my first time racing 4wd buggy. A lot of people are saying though that the XB4 is a better buggy and I shouldn't waste my money on the B64D. For anyone here who has competed against the XRAY using the B64D did you really feel like that was the better buggy, and it was hard to compete against or am I just letting the marketing and other peoples opinions get to my head? I honestly would like to race the B64D but some of the comments have made it seem like it is more delicate than other kits.
11-20-2017, 10:39 PM
#7739
Hey all, I am thinking of picking up an B64D to race this winter. It would be my first time racing 4wd buggy. A lot of people are saying though that the XB4 is a better buggy and I shouldn't waste my money on the B64D. For anyone here who has competed against the XRAY using the B64D did you really feel like that was the better buggy, and it was hard to compete against or am I just letting the marketing and other peoples opinions get to my head? I honestly would like to race the B64D but some of the comments have made it seem like it is more delicate than other kits.
I race a B64/d kit and competed against many XB4 (mainly on astro or carpet tracks)
B64d is a very good car but not as good as the XB4, due to the development time on the XB4 platform (about 4 years)
But it's not a huge difference; and specially on dirt.
Depending of your driving level but you may not notice the difference.
The best advice is to try both if you can
Budget is also big point when racing
11-21-2017, 01:07 AM
#7740
Tech Adept
I race on an indoor astro track which is fairly tight and has a few jumps with flat landings where the jump faces have to be taken at weird angles to set up for the next corner, and you have to be wide open on landing. I'm having some problems where the car doesn't hook up straight away after landing. It's kind of nervous for a split second until it settles down, but it's costing me a few tenths every lap, no doubt.
I am close to kit setup, 17mm ride height (going lower made it worse, going higher didn't make it better), I'm on the correct tyres and my shocks seem fine, as the car lands beautifully on jumps with a downslope landing. I've tried a few different things like changing the rear shock eyelets from long to short ones but doesn't seem to make any difference towards my problem.
I am now thinking about possibly trying the hard arms (f/r) or maybe a rear swaybar, but I don't have any experience with either one. I would prefer not to spend money on parts I don't need as I absolutely love the car in every other aspect, so any help would be appreciated.
I am close to kit setup, 17mm ride height (going lower made it worse, going higher didn't make it better), I'm on the correct tyres and my shocks seem fine, as the car lands beautifully on jumps with a downslope landing. I've tried a few different things like changing the rear shock eyelets from long to short ones but doesn't seem to make any difference towards my problem.
I am now thinking about possibly trying the hard arms (f/r) or maybe a rear swaybar, but I don't have any experience with either one. I would prefer not to spend money on parts I don't need as I absolutely love the car in every other aspect, so any help would be appreciated.