649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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05-30-2017, 09:43 AM
#6676
we have had five racers (one being me) at our track break them, with aluminum shock towers two, with stock towers three. mine broke from a car landing into my B6. the gear boxes break in the shock tower mount area where the walls are under 1.5mm thin.
they are not breaking on the scale that B64 drivers are experiencing. but the early B6 cases seemed less dense, aerated, and more fibrous due to less binding material, not sure if there has been a running change?
it's luck of the draw, we have a AE team driver at our track who was running Mod, he clipped a dot, car went airborne, flew 20++ feet, over a 6 foot wall and landed upside down on a side walk next to a 4 lane street and was fine.
they are not breaking on the scale that B64 drivers are experiencing. but the early B6 cases seemed less dense, aerated, and more fibrous due to less binding material, not sure if there has been a running change?
it's luck of the draw, we have a AE team driver at our track who was running Mod, he clipped a dot, car went airborne, flew 20++ feet, over a 6 foot wall and landed upside down on a side walk next to a 4 lane street and was fine.
05-30-2017, 02:06 PM
#6677
Tech Adept
I Know this is going to be a loaded question so I appoligize in advance...
I built my buggy to go in mod class at my local club track primarily. The track is small/med in size. The track surface a primarily hard packed. Conditions usually start on race day with a bit of dampness and loose sand on top. We blow it off but it can be a bit loose early on. By the second qual round and good sun...traction come up and a groove builds. Hole Shots seems to be the most consistent throughout track changes. However, when the groove come in nicely, we can/do run a dirt web/bar code style tire.
My buggy is the B6d. It is currently in its stock setup. Others at my track, run a 6.5t to 7.5t motor. I am looking for recommendations for a motor brand, make, size for this application. Like many, I am looking for the most power for the money. Initially, I had heard great things about the Maclan MMR in either 6.5 or 7.5 size.
Thoughts on all the above?
I built my buggy to go in mod class at my local club track primarily. The track is small/med in size. The track surface a primarily hard packed. Conditions usually start on race day with a bit of dampness and loose sand on top. We blow it off but it can be a bit loose early on. By the second qual round and good sun...traction come up and a groove builds. Hole Shots seems to be the most consistent throughout track changes. However, when the groove come in nicely, we can/do run a dirt web/bar code style tire.
My buggy is the B6d. It is currently in its stock setup. Others at my track, run a 6.5t to 7.5t motor. I am looking for recommendations for a motor brand, make, size for this application. Like many, I am looking for the most power for the money. Initially, I had heard great things about the Maclan MMR in either 6.5 or 7.5 size.
Thoughts on all the above?
05-30-2017, 02:30 PM
#6678
which servo should i choose
i recently bought a used b6, it come with a futaba bls451, but i end up break the servo, i am looking to buy a new servo, should i buy another bls451 or savox 1258? savox have better spec and cheaper than futaba
05-30-2017, 02:44 PM
#6680
Yeah, +1 on Savox.
05-30-2017, 03:15 PM
#6681
Tech Regular
Savox are good, but I'd use the 1257 for the B6. The 1258 has higher torque numbers, better suited to the T5M or SC5M. The 1257 has more speed. Just my opinion. Most mere mortals can't tell the difference but if you're into numbers, well..
05-31-2017, 01:45 AM
#6683
I Know this is going to be a loaded question so I appoligize in advance...
I built my buggy to go in mod class at my local club track primarily. The track is small/med in size. The track surface a primarily hard packed. Conditions usually start on race day with a bit of dampness and loose sand on top. We blow it off but it can be a bit loose early on. By the second qual round and good sun...traction come up and a groove builds. Hole Shots seems to be the most consistent throughout track changes. However, when the groove come in nicely, we can/do run a dirt web/bar code style tire.
My buggy is the B6d. It is currently in its stock setup. Others at my track, run a 6.5t to 7.5t motor. I am looking for recommendations for a motor brand, make, size for this application. Like many, I am looking for the most power for the money. Initially, I had heard great things about the Maclan MMR in either 6.5 or 7.5 size.
Thoughts on all the above?
I built my buggy to go in mod class at my local club track primarily. The track is small/med in size. The track surface a primarily hard packed. Conditions usually start on race day with a bit of dampness and loose sand on top. We blow it off but it can be a bit loose early on. By the second qual round and good sun...traction come up and a groove builds. Hole Shots seems to be the most consistent throughout track changes. However, when the groove come in nicely, we can/do run a dirt web/bar code style tire.
My buggy is the B6d. It is currently in its stock setup. Others at my track, run a 6.5t to 7.5t motor. I am looking for recommendations for a motor brand, make, size for this application. Like many, I am looking for the most power for the money. Initially, I had heard great things about the Maclan MMR in either 6.5 or 7.5 size.
Thoughts on all the above?
As for brand, that is definitely personal preference and you will get lots of answers. I use the Reedy Mach 3 motors, they have a very smooth powerband at lower RPM which is very important for 2wd, as well as great top end.
If you are interested, this is a setup guide I put together for racing in similar conditions down here. Hope its useful.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...y-m-201612.pdf
Ray
05-31-2017, 03:40 PM
#6684
Tech Adept
I hear everyone talking about how light the car is. I am guessing there is very little difference between the B6d and B6 in weight with all other things the same (electronics, battery, etc.)? I keep reading how people are adding weight to get their car to meet the minimum 1499g limit? I am having a problem digesting this...lol. I built my B6d for mod. I have built it completely box stock except I put Losi white springs on the rear and AE grn springs on the front. At this point, I am at 1574g with no aftermarket parts. I do have a set of 60mm wheels/tires on when I put it on the scale. I guess those could be worth a few extra grams. But, I would definitely not be needing to add weight to make the minimum. Does this 1575g sound right? I know a justock esc probably weighs in at less than my xr10 pro 160a. I just don't see how these things could add up to the numbers I hear people talking about...
05-31-2017, 04:54 PM
#6686
I hear everyone talking about how light the car is. I am guessing there is very little difference between the B6d and B6 in weight with all other things the same (electronics, battery, etc.)? I keep reading how people are adding weight to get their car to meet the minimum 1499g limit? I am having a problem digesting this...lol. I built my B6d for mod. I have built it completely box stock except I put Losi white springs on the rear and AE grn springs on the front. At this point, I am at 1574g with no aftermarket parts. I do have a set of 60mm wheels/tires on when I put it on the scale. I guess those could be worth a few extra grams. But, I would definitely not be needing to add weight to make the minimum. Does this 1575g sound right? I know a justock esc probably weighs in at less than my xr10 pro 160a. I just don't see how these things could add up to the numbers I hear people talking about...
05-31-2017, 06:01 PM
#6687
I have a b6 with both alloy chassis plates, brass c & d blocks,36 gr battery weight, prime slicks, and thin shorty battery and weigh 1530 gr. Also exoteck top shaft and slipper elimanator. smc esc, 17.5 orion motor, spectrum 6040 servo
06-01-2017, 12:57 AM
#6689
Tech Regular
battery. wheels and tires. i found for instance that the jconcepts pindowns were significantly heavier than schumacher minipins.
