649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-27-2016, 02:48 PM
#2881
Tech Initiate
Awesome, thank you! Am also considering getting a steel gear for added weight in the back...
08-27-2016, 02:54 PM
#2883
Tech Regular
Yeah try to keep weight as low as possible in your rotating parts. The brass C block would be a better alternative.
08-27-2016, 05:44 PM
#2884
Tech Regular
My b6 was very good at thunder. I placed 6th in the Amain at the sizzler race. You will need a ball diff. Remove the waterfall to push the battery back as far as possible, 25gram brass weight and white front springs and green rear should be a good baseline setup.
In my frustration about Matt being passive aggressive on not racing, I ordered a b6d and will be racing at thunder a lot more.
In my frustration about Matt being passive aggressive on not racing, I ordered a b6d and will be racing at thunder a lot more.
08-28-2016, 06:05 AM
#2886
Tech Regular
Here's a cool motor plate design by VRP. Incorporates the spur protector idea into the plate.
http://www.neobuggy.net/2016/08/24/v...-motor-plates/
http://www.neobuggy.net/2016/08/24/v...-motor-plates/
08-28-2016, 07:02 AM
#2887
08-28-2016, 12:08 PM
#2888
I know its early but has anyone installed the MIP top shaft yet and notice a difference?
08-28-2016, 12:55 PM
#2889
Tech Apprentice
Link didn't work
Trying to post a photo and I'm struggling. Any help?
Last edited by NCOHOG; 08-28-2016 at 12:59 PM. Reason: Photo link didn't work
08-28-2016, 01:07 PM
#2890
Tech Regular
[img] *image address* [/img]
08-28-2016, 01:16 PM
#2891
Tech Apprentice
Thanks for the help. Finally figured it out.
Finished up a little work in the awesome factory today.
Just need to do a little deburr work.
Last edited by NCOHOG; 08-28-2016 at 01:30 PM.
08-28-2016, 01:37 PM
#2892
08-28-2016, 02:16 PM
#2894
Tech Regular
Get some MIP outdrives and lighten those. Money.
08-28-2016, 07:14 PM
#2895
I know it was discussed but I can't remember. Is there a difference on the alum hubs if you put the zero degree etching facing forward or back?