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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-25-2016, 06:46 AM   #2806
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Is it true that the puck system is costly than using the stock parts?
You have to be very careful to watch the wear on the little orange pucks. They don't last long and if you don't change them when they start to wear you will destroy the aluminum outdrives. That's when they get expensive to maintain.
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Old 08-25-2016, 06:58 AM   #2807
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Is it true that the puck system is costly than using the stock parts?
Anything you change from stock is costly....

If you are not on top of changing inserts it can ruin the outdrives very fast. Personally, I ran the pucks for a while in my b5m and one day swapped in the stock parts and had the exact same lap times...I am not a fan of the pucks and they will not be making their way into my car.
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:10 AM   #2808
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Is it true that the puck system is costly than using the stock parts?
You will be spending money to buy the puck system theres a cost. Does it last longer than stock parts? No! It will give you more maintenence, with little extra performance.
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:45 AM   #2809
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Besides what's in the B6D kit, which oils and grease do I need to buy for build and racing? Is anyone using Utter Butter?
I don't mind spending a little extra for rebranded RC hobby stuff because I'm not likely to use all the bulk automotive stuff and I like that the hobby oils/grease come in little applicators, I just don't know which ones are good value...
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:48 AM   #2810
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Always good to have some Loctite in the box.
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Old 08-25-2016, 08:49 AM   #2811
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Only thing I'd really recommend is some green slime (#1105). You'll get enough diff lube and grease in the kit to rebuild your diffs a couple times. I guess you could pick up some different shock oils too.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:37 AM   #2812
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You will be spending money to buy the puck system theres a cost. Does it last longer than stock parts? No! It will give you more maintenence, with little extra performance.
not true. it really depends on your surface. for indoor wet clay I only work on the pucks twice a year. if you are on a dust dirty surface. the new roller pucks might be good. we grease the plastic pucks, and dust can mix in with the grease and require more cleaning and such
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:44 AM   #2813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabulous View Post
It will give you more maintenence, with little extra performance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
we grease the plastic pucks, and dust can mix in with the grease and require more cleaning and such
Wildcat1971, I think this part of your statement validated his point.

Moral of the story, if you grease the plastic pucks and that grease gets contaminated with foreign debris it will require you to clean and re-grease them in order for them to last longer than if you left them alone.
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:49 AM   #2814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Wildcat1971, I think this part of your statement validated his point.

Moral of the story, if you grease the plastic pucks and that grease gets contaminated with foreign debris it will require you to clean and re-grease them in order for them to last longer than if you left them alone.
I agree. I was being more specific to the need for additional maintenance. the more dirty a track is, the more the maintenance of everything goes up. bearings, hinge ins, etc.


my personal laptime are .5 second faster with pucks. because the car corners better and faster
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:54 AM   #2815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
my personal laptime are .5 second faster with pucks. because the car corners better and faster
Piggybacking off this ^

Keep in mind that pucks will free up the rear of the car...both due to the less weight over the rear end and the less bone bind. If you run on a high bite track (like Wildcat) this could be a benefit...if you run on a low bite track throwing a bunch of lightweight parts in your driveline will probably make the car worse.
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:19 AM   #2816
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I am having an issue with my car pushing real bad in the corners. What can be done to reduce this?
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:25 AM   #2817
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I am having an issue with my car pushing real bad in the corners. What can be done to reduce this?
Without posting current setup, track, tires, etc... no one can give you any info.

Based of the info you currently have I would say turn the wheel more.
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:31 AM   #2818
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1 View Post
I am having an issue with my car pushing real bad in the corners. What can be done to reduce this?
need more info like are you pushing on power or off power? entry mid or exit? but generally you could try things like:

- add weight to front or remove weight from rear
- reduce front roll center
- play with suspension, maybe your rear is too soft or front is too stiff
- what is your camber set at and camber gain?
- increase rear droop
- 3 gear or 4 gear tranny? laydown or stand up? laydown will reduce a push

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Without posting current setup, track, tires, etc... no one can give you any info.

Based of the info you currently have I would say turn the wheel more.
i was on board with you until you said turn wheel more. turning the wheel more when your car is pushing wont solve the problem. if your going to be smart, at least be intelligent.
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:40 AM   #2819
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
need more info like are you pushing on power or off power? entry mid or exit? but generally you could try things like:

- add weight to front or remove weight from rear
- reduce front roll center
- play with suspension, maybe your rear is too soft or front is too stiff
- what is your camber set at and camber gain?
- increase rear droop
- 3 gear or 4 gear tranny? laydown or stand up? laydown will reduce a push



i was on board with you until you said turn wheel more. turning the wheel more when your car is pushing wont solve the problem. if your going to be smart, at least be intelligent.
Thanks for the help. Will try to turn a little more

3 gear lay down. Brass C mount AE front bulk head Gray front 32.5 oil 2x1.6 green rear 30wt oil green spring 2x1.7. Schelle rear hubs 22mm front and back ride. -1 camber front and rear. Clay track with proline electrons
Real close to Kurt's set up from Schelle

Thanks
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:41 AM   #2820
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do i need to buy rims is so what one fit will the b 5 one still work
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