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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-19-2016, 07:41 AM   #1711
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Got a race meet on the B6D, we run on loose dirt car has tons of rear grip with kit setup, had a fair bit of understeer so took the 2mm washer away on the ackerman and moved the battery foward. Got more steer with similar rear grip. Very easy to drive looking toward to racing it again.

Obligatory photos. Weight is 1530g as seen here.




Great looking paint. Where'd you get the front tower protector?
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:46 AM   #1712
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Idler shaft question
B5's is 91011
B6's is 91132
in the parts compatibility the 91011 does not show it works on the B6 but the 91132 shows it works on the B6's and B5's.

Is there any reason the 91011 won't work on the B6?

differences other than 1 is aluminum and the other is not?
The stock B5 idler shaft was steel and the B6 is aluminum. same dimensions on both.
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:49 AM   #1713
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The stock B5 idler shaft was steel and the B6 is aluminum. same dimensions on both.
No they are not same dimensions, the B6/B6D gearboxes are 2mm larger than the B5M ones. That means the top shaft is 2mm longer, idler gears are 2mm larger and diffs need to be shimed by 2mm. Every transmission part differs and i dont think you can use b5m parts on the B6 except the diffs (shimed with #91605).
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:58 AM   #1714
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No they are not same dimensions, the B6/B6D gearboxes are 2mm larger than the B5M ones. That means the top shaft is 2mm longer, idler gears are 2mm larger and diffs need to be shimed by 2mm. Every transmission part differs and i dont think you can use b5m parts on the B6 except the diffs (shimed with #91605).

This needs to be added to the wiki.
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:59 AM   #1715
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No they are not same dimensions, the B6/B6D gearboxes are 2mm larger than the B5M ones. That means the top shaft is 2mm longer, idler gears are 2mm larger and diffs need to be shimed by 2mm. Every transmission part differs and i dont think you can use b5m parts on the B6 except the diffs (shimed with #91605).
The idler shaft ARE the same dimensions!
You can use 91132 which are the FT alum version and you get 2 per package. Fits all 5 and 6 series.

Or 91011 which is the stock shaft in the 5 series.

It's as simple as going to ae's web page and checking the part numbers. Click on the part and it'll tell you what all it fits. The 91132 fits in the 5's as well because I've used them many times!
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Old 07-19-2016, 08:42 AM   #1716
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I want to use the 91011 in the B6, Associated's website does not list the B6 as compatible...... but it should fit if dimensions are the same as the 91132?
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Old 07-19-2016, 08:43 AM   #1717
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I want to use the 91011 in the B6, Associated's website does not list the B6 as compatible...... but it should fit if dimensions are the same as the 91132?
Yes, it'll be fine. It's just heavier
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Old 07-19-2016, 08:49 AM   #1718
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Yes, it'll be fine. It's just heavier
heavier by like .001 gram . It will fit perfectly fine though.
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Old 07-19-2016, 08:51 AM   #1719
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heavier by like .001 gram . It will fit perfectly fine though.
Hey, these stock guys get crazy bout them scale numbers.
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Old 07-19-2016, 08:52 AM   #1720
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Hey, these stock guys get crazy bout them scale numbers.
Exactly. Just wait til they realize it's not rotating though...lol
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Old 07-19-2016, 08:58 AM   #1721
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Exactly. Just wait til they realize it's not rotating though...lol
Ha!
"You mean that makes a difference?"
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:13 AM   #1722
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I have. Yes. It's why you see the pro's ESC's on the far right side of the front, to help offset the motor weight.
what are your corner weight numbers?
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:33 AM   #1723
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B6D with lay down on high bite clay (OCRC) would you run rear shocks in front of or behind the arms? Looking at the manual I mounted in front of the arms. Only thing left to my build is the electronics. Cant wait to try it later this week.
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:37 AM   #1724
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B6D with lay down on high bite clay (OCRC) would you run rear shocks in front of or behind the arms? Looking at the manual I mounted in front of the arms. Only thing left to my build is the electronics. Cant wait to try it later this week.
I would start with shocks in the rear....make sure to get the brass C mount too, it is probably a good idea to pick up the heavier brass c mount as well. I know some guys were running the 12g version and still adding weight next to it. Hartson was running shocks in front over the weekend but....I doubt any of us are at that level.
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Old 07-19-2016, 10:10 AM   #1725
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I would start with shocks in the rear....make sure to get the brass C mount too, it is probably a good idea to pick up the heavier brass c mount as well. I know some guys were running the 12g version and still adding weight next to it. Hartson was running shocks in front over the weekend but....I doubt any of us are at that level.
Thanks for the info and will move them to the back. I do already have the 12g brass mount and I used the AE front bulk head.
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