649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-23-2016, 06:15 PM
#3946
Just built my b6d. Gotta say the build quality is phenomenal. Only issues I had was I needed to use shorter screws with a savox servo and shorter screws on the gear cover since it wanted to hit my motor. My only complaint is the new Pistons are even looser than the older ones, virtually demanding the machined ones. Built with long shocks and tower.
Can't wait to hit the track
Can't wait to hit the track
10-23-2016, 07:37 PM
#3947
I use this servo horn for Futaba/Savox 25T spline:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...sc1366/p507395
There is other good ones if you search B6 Servo Horn on AMain.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...sc1366/p507395
There is other good ones if you search B6 Servo Horn on AMain.
B5 aluminum servo horn with no washers would probably be ideal -- like the B5/B6 plastic horn.
10-23-2016, 08:41 PM
#3949
I'm running a 4600kv castle in my B6D, people have told me not to go to the 5700kv
just because the motor gets hotter and its not as reliable as the 4600kv.
Plus id have to run a cooling fan on the esc and I don't wanna deal with fans.
The track I race on is small anyway and I wouldn't be able to open up a 5700kv.
just because the motor gets hotter and its not as reliable as the 4600kv.
Plus id have to run a cooling fan on the esc and I don't wanna deal with fans.
The track I race on is small anyway and I wouldn't be able to open up a 5700kv.
I'm going to run a CC 4600 2pole with a CC sidewinder gen1 I already have to get going. What gears are you running?
Last edited by Rubiconmike; 10-23-2016 at 09:08 PM.
10-23-2016, 09:35 PM
#3950
[QUOTE=ozerdam;14712491]What wheels are you using?
10-23-2016, 10:17 PM
#3951
Anyone notice these shocks get super squeeky? I had someone rebuild my shocks for me, as he was taking all the blue anodizing off my car for a fee.... Wondering if taking the anodizing of the bottom caps on the shocks may have lefty some room for air to get in? It's odd all the shocks get squeeky even after changing oil and re-bleeding. This normal? Anyone else remove anodizing from shocks? Thx
Last edited by JAE; 10-23-2016 at 11:43 PM.
10-24-2016, 12:17 AM
#3952
Tech Regular
I use this servo horn for Futaba/Savox 25T spline:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...sc1366/p507395
There is other good ones if you search B6 Servo Horn on AMain.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...sc1366/p507395
There is other good ones if you search B6 Servo Horn on AMain.
10-24-2016, 06:43 AM
#3954
What pill changes can I make to give me more rear grip on medium clay? I have stock pill setup in a laydown car with brass 12g c block aluminum d block with shocks in front of arms.
10-24-2016, 07:00 AM
#3955
Anyone notice these shocks get super squeeky? I had someone rebuild my shocks for me, as he was taking all the blue anodizing off my car for a fee.... Wondering if taking the anodizing of the bottom caps on the shocks may have lefty some room for air to get in? It's odd all the shocks get squeeky even after changing oil and re-bleeding. This normal? Anyone else remove anodizing from shocks? Thx
10-24-2016, 08:09 AM
#3956
10-24-2016, 09:23 AM
#3958