26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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07-17-2016, 07:20 AM
#3211
Tech Rookie
Just getting back into RC racing after over 20 years away. Got my 22 3.0 put together with a Reedy Mach 17.5 motor for stock racing.
I installed the 70t spur (part #TLR3978) with two slipper pads (part #LOSA3123) in place of the new spur and slipper pads but I can't get the slipper tight enough to raise the front end like I see in all the videos on building the diff and slipper.
I tried to stretch out the spring and even post a washer in between the spring and the slipper plate in hopes of getting it tight enough, but no go. I tried to stretch the spring slightly and even when bottomed out I get it slipping and it won't raise the front end up.
Any suggestions?
I installed the 70t spur (part #TLR3978) with two slipper pads (part #LOSA3123) in place of the new spur and slipper pads but I can't get the slipper tight enough to raise the front end like I see in all the videos on building the diff and slipper.
I tried to stretch out the spring and even post a washer in between the spring and the slipper plate in hopes of getting it tight enough, but no go. I tried to stretch the spring slightly and even when bottomed out I get it slipping and it won't raise the front end up.
Any suggestions?
07-17-2016, 11:34 AM
#3212
Just getting back into RC racing after over 20 years away. Got my 22 3.0 put together with a Reedy Mach 17.5 motor for stock racing.
I installed the 70t spur (part #TLR3978) with two slipper pads (part #LOSA3123) in place of the new spur and slipper pads but I can't get the slipper tight enough to raise the front end like I see in all the videos on building the diff and slipper.
I tried to stretch out the spring and even post a washer in between the spring and the slipper plate in hopes of getting it tight enough, but no go. I tried to stretch the spring slightly and even when bottomed out I get it slipping and it won't raise the front end up.
Any suggestions?
I installed the 70t spur (part #TLR3978) with two slipper pads (part #LOSA3123) in place of the new spur and slipper pads but I can't get the slipper tight enough to raise the front end like I see in all the videos on building the diff and slipper.
I tried to stretch out the spring and even post a washer in between the spring and the slipper plate in hopes of getting it tight enough, but no go. I tried to stretch the spring slightly and even when bottomed out I get it slipping and it won't raise the front end up.
Any suggestions?
07-17-2016, 03:17 PM
#3213
You should only set slipper by that method with a mod motor.
07-17-2016, 08:32 PM
#3214
Tech Adept
07-17-2016, 09:45 PM
#3215
Seems like there are a lot of chassis and transmission options available now. It would be really handy if someone could put together a chart with all the various chassis and diff combinations with part numbers and the types of tracks to use them on. Maybe something Frank could cover in his next Facebook live stream.
07-17-2016, 10:23 PM
#3216
I installed the 70t spur (part #TLR3978) with two slipper pads (part #LOSA3123) in place of the new spur and slipper pads but I can't get the slipper tight enough to raise the front end like I see in all the videos on building the diff and slipper.
I tried to stretch out the spring and even post a washer in between the spring and the slipper plate in hopes of getting it tight enough, but no go. I tried to stretch the spring slightly and even when bottomed out I get it slipping and it won't raise the front end up.
Any suggestions?
I tried to stretch out the spring and even post a washer in between the spring and the slipper plate in hopes of getting it tight enough, but no go. I tried to stretch the spring slightly and even when bottomed out I get it slipping and it won't raise the front end up.
Any suggestions?
It's an experience thing, but you can hear how hard the motor works to make the slipper slip, and this lets me know when it's tight enough. You'll have no issues with a slipper eliminator though, like TLR332056
Seems like there are a lot of chassis and transmission options available now. It would be really handy if someone could put together a chart with all the various chassis and diff combinations with part numbers and the types of tracks to use them on. Maybe something Frank could cover in his next Facebook live stream.
07-18-2016, 06:17 AM
#3218
Tech Rookie
The stock motors don't have enough power to lift the front wheels regardless of the slipper setting, so you don't want to try and set your slipper that way.
It's an experience thing, but you can hear how hard the motor works to make the slipper slip, and this lets me know when it's tight enough. You'll have no issues with a slipper eliminator though, like TLR332056
It's an experience thing, but you can hear how hard the motor works to make the slipper slip, and this lets me know when it's tight enough. You'll have no issues with a slipper eliminator though, like TLR332056
07-18-2016, 09:15 AM
#3219
07-18-2016, 12:05 PM
#3221
The dirt laydown has personally for me been my favorite. It lowers the diff height back down to standard height which allows for the standard rear hub, but also to use the standard front LRC pivot. I felt the car rolled through the corner better, jumped better, and was a little less edgy on dirt. Overall both are great options and offer several options for a variety of tracks.
07-18-2016, 01:08 PM
#3222
Frank, could you share what type of cars that the team was running at hotrod shootout. I saw on fb that Ryan had a standard car and Dustin had had a laydown?
07-18-2016, 01:27 PM
#3224
Yes, you are correct. The laydown chassis conversion comes with the +3.5mm gear case, and the dirt laydown is bought separately.