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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

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Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 02-24-2016, 04:06 AM   #2161
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Originally Posted by RedBMaster View Post
Careful, going to the Exotek rack is a step backwards as it was engineered for the 2.0 with the original 2.0 spindles. The 3.0 has the updated spindles engineered for the TLR rack.

My 3.0 has a ton of steering without any extra parts. The changes I've made to the front end are as follows:

Long VLA
Red front springs
2mm washer on front bulkhead
1mm bump steer washer
1mm Ackerman washer

Keep in mind this is all contingent upon everything else being setup and working properly, with tires being #1!
Exotek released a steering rack for the 3.0 and it is identical to the v2 steering rack. I don't see it as a step backward at all. It's very very similar to the stock rack just seems to be a tad more steering, precision, and smoothness. Everything else besides the spindles is identical, and I don't think the Exotek rack reacts negatively with the new spindles, othwrwise Exotek wouldn't have released the rack for the 3.0 either.

Also, the stock rack that came on the 3.0 is identical to the stock rack that came on my 22SCT 2.0, which Has the updated bell rank system stock.

I'm 99.9% positive the Exotek rack works as designed for the 3.0 as the stock 3.0 rack is the same as the updated 2.0 bell crank rack.

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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
Lyons: I'll be running stock. My plan is Orion r10 stock esc, Orion motor, Airtronics m12s and airtronics servo, smc batteries.
Ok running stock you can chose whether or not you want the added aluminum for stiffness/durability or not. If you do I would def get a Lunsford titanium screw kit, shock mounts, and front axles. Stock class is a bitch lol

Last edited by lyons238; 02-24-2016 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:23 AM   #2162
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When you are driving any new car for the 1st time, is the drag brake already set in there or you start with zero?
Also, what is the 1st step i should take to increase steering? To tune the car or tune the drag brake first?
I never run without drag brake, so yes, I'd add that first.
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:53 AM   #2163
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Anybody experience any issues with "stuff" getting inside your gear cover? i have yet to use a full battery charge, and in my limited time driving (i've had my buggy out on the street twice), during each run i've gotten sand/gravel in my spur and pinion teeth.

This has been driven on the street only, where there is some sand/gravel on the sides of the street due to winter weather and the city dumping it.

My first run i just figured i didn't have the gear cover aligned properly, but was certain it was for the 2nd.

Am i over looking something here?
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:58 AM   #2164
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
Exotek released a steering rack for the 3.0 and it is identical to the v2 steering rack. I don't see it as a step backward at all. It's very very similar to the stock rack just seems to be a tad more steering, precision, and smoothness. Everything else besides the spindles is identical, and I don't think the Exotek rack reacts negatively with the new spindles, othwrwise Exotek wouldn't have released the rack for the 3.0 either.

Also, the stock rack that came on the 3.0 is identical to the stock rack that came on my 22SCT 2.0, which Has the updated bell rank system stock.

I'm 99.9% positive the Exotek rack works as designed for the 3.0 as the stock 3.0 rack is the same as the updated 2.0 bell crank rack.
Yes, it obviously works on the 3.0. The point is the Exotek rack was designed and tested with the original 2.0 spindles. When TLR released their steering rack they updated the spindles to what is on the 3.0 and as you noticed the 22 SCT 2.0 and any other TLR 22 that comes with the TLR steering rack.

I think they better question to ask is why spend $35 on an old part when proper setup will gain you more, and other racers will readily be able to replicate your setup. Nothing like someone asking you why your car is so fast and your like, well you have to spend an extra $35 on top of an already top of the line vehicle to make it fast. Its misleading and unnecessary. This isn't the 2.0!
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:01 AM   #2165
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
Ok running stock you can chose whether or not you want the added aluminum for stiffness/durability or not. If you do I would def get a Lunsford titanium screw kit, shock mounts, and front axles. Stock class is a bitch lol
Ummmm, FALSE. He does not need to spend $150+ on titanium stuff from Lunsford. He needs a car that is built correctly, the right tires, and lots of practice. Titanium is the least economical way to drop weight from a car, and (aside from turnbuckles) should be one of the last upgrades you make to your car.

People don't understand why people motor them down the straight in stock. It's not soley because they have hundreds of dollars in upgrades and the best motor/batteries. It's because they know how to carry corner speed, which translates into more straight line speed. Yes all of those upgrades do make a difference, but if you are not a good enough driver it isn't gonna matter. Until you can make an entire race without crashing once, you don't need to drop coin on all the fancy stuff.

The 3.0 is an amazing car right out of the box. Build it right, put the right tires on it, and practice. The car is not holding you back, you are!
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Old 02-24-2016, 01:43 PM   #2166
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[B
People don't understand why people motor them down the straight in stock. It's not soley because they have hundreds of dollars in upgrades and the best motor/batteries. It's because they know how to carry corner speed, which translates into more straight line speed. Yes all of those upgrades do make a difference, but if you are not a good enough driver it isn't gonna matter. Until you can make an entire race without crashing once, you don't need to drop coin on all the fancy stuff.[/B]

The 3.0 is an amazing car right out of the box. Build it right, put the right tires on it, and practice. The car is not holding you back, you are!

+1

there is NOTHING wrong with this car! Period!
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Old 02-24-2016, 02:56 PM   #2167
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post

Ok running stock you can chose whether or not you want the added aluminum for stiffness/durability or not. If you do I would def get a Lunsford titanium screw kit, shock mounts, and front axles. Stock class is a bitch lol
A complete set of Lunsford Titanium everything is well over $200...what kind of "advantage" does this give? I'm only racing stock because I haven't run a car in a while and this will be my first 2wd.
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:07 PM   #2168
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A complete set of Lunsford Titanium everything is well over $200...what kind of "advantage" does this give? I'm only racing stock because I haven't run a car in a while and this will be my first 2wd.
Main advantage is its going to save you some weight.
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:09 PM   #2169
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As far as I'm concerned it isn't worth it. My car is only 25 grams over the minimum weight running a full servo. I am running mip pucks and a super shorty. Only place I shaved weight.
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:25 PM   #2170
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Well when I consistently finish within 1 or 2 laps of the leader in the a main, then I'll consider drastic weight reduction.
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:43 AM   #2171
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I never run without drag brake, so yes, I'd add that first.
Thanks Frank!!
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:45 AM   #2172
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Well when I consistently finish within 1 or 2 laps of the leader in the a main, then I'll consider drastic weight reduction.
The drastic weight reductions help make the last 5% of improvement to maximize performance. If the first 95% is not yet covered, then no need to go after the last 5%, unless you have the money and want to .... I love titanium
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Old 02-25-2016, 01:58 PM   #2173
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I am new to the 22 platform, but what is the difference between Spindle Ball stud standard and Low Mount....??
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Old 02-25-2016, 02:08 PM   #2174
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I am new to the 22 platform, but what is the difference between Spindle Ball stud standard and Low Mount....??
Low mount is 1mm shorter in height
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Old 02-25-2016, 02:24 PM   #2175
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Low mount is 1mm shorter in height
Sorry but where ..... ??
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