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Old 03-22-2015, 04:47 PM   #8506
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Most people usually replace the motor button head screws with a hex cap to get better torque when tightening it down. The button heads want to strip easy.

As for motors if your new to 4w Buggy, definitely recommend a 7.5 for a great starting point. Plenty of rip and power, even on a couple of the 1/8 tracks I've been to
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:02 PM   #8507
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Originally Posted by Qrio View Post
Just bought this buggy and new into RC.

Any advice as to what is a good ESC/Motor combo for starters?
Buy the slowest motor you can that will still clear the biggest jumps at your track. Seriously.

If you're inexperienced, a 5.5 and 6.5 will be way too fast/powerful. A 7.5 may work. I'd probably recommend a 8.5 though for most tracks. Do not attempt to "turn down" a 5.5 or 6.5.

There are plenty of brands that will do just fine. I'm personally familiar with Tekin and run the RSX and RS Gen 2 with a 6.5, 8.5, and 10.5, depending on the track. You can crank up the 10.5 to be pretty dang fast for top speed although the torque of that wind will not clear super-big jumps.

Ask people at your track what motor they are running, if they have it "turned up" with boost, and how easy it is to clear the biggest jumps you may encounter. Then, go with the slowest one you hear.
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:11 PM   #8508
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FYI, I have a bunch of D413 parts (new) in the for sale section. Anyone looking to pick up some spares or plan on doing a rebuild can picked them up for a good price.
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:18 PM   #8509
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I'm definitely looking to ease back into this, but it seems that the KV ratings are all over the place when shopping by # of turns. I'm thinking 3800Kv would be about right for an entry point, but many companies only list turn #s, not kv. Coming from FE boat racing we pick everything based on kv rating, effeciency, and watt rating.

LRP makes a sensored motor in the 3800kv range. I assume you can pair any sensored motor with a sensored ESC of any make ESC.

Is the difference between a sensored motor vs. sensorless going to be that apparent to someone getting back into the hobby?
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:00 PM   #8510
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I'm definitely looking to ease back into this, but it seems that the KV ratings are all over the place when shopping by # of turns. I'm thinking 3800Kv would be about right for an entry point, but many companies only list turn #s, not kv. Coming from FE boat racing we pick everything based on kv rating, effeciency, and watt rating.

LRP makes a sensored motor in the 3800kv range. I assume you can pair any sensored motor with a sensored ESC of any make ESC.

Is the difference between a sensored motor vs. sensorless going to be that apparent to someone getting back into the hobby?
Try a 8.5t I have a 6.5t lrp and esc had good luck with lrp stuff so far
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:33 PM   #8511
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Sean I would agree 8.5 is a good start I also run a 6.5 but your just getting back in 8.5 would be good . But I have seen you wheel an FE boat and I think you would have no problem with a 8.5 or 6.5 I run with the guys at MMEU thats were I saw you run think it was the P shootout or
the Mich Cup . I think myself coming from RC cars then to FE boats that you will find a sensored ESC to be smoother than are FE ESC that feel more like an on off switch
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:48 PM   #8512
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So just race my first club race with the d413. I TQ 'ed the first round and fell to 2nd after the 2nd round. In the main I had a good run but pushed the buggy too hard and made some mistakes. Finished 2nd overall. Everyone was impressed with my buggy and let a few people drive it and they liked it. I'm very happy with my choice to get this buggy. I am a very aggressive driver coming from 1/8. I was able the push the d413 almost as hard as I do my ebuggy. Just need a little more rear traction and I think it will be hard to beat. I also tested the durability with multiple cart wheels without a broken part. Everyone that saw it said if it was any other brand I would have broken all 4 arms. I just laughed.
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:05 PM   #8513
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So just race my first club race with the d413. I TQ 'ed the first round and fell to 2nd after the 2nd round. In the main I had a good run but pushed the buggy too hard and made some mistakes. Finished 2nd overall. Everyone was impressed with my buggy and let a few people drive it and they liked it. I'm very happy with my choice to get this buggy. I am a very aggressive driver coming from 1/8. I was able the push the d413 almost as hard as I do my ebuggy. Just need a little more rear traction and I think it will be hard to beat. I also tested the durability with multiple cart wheels without a broken part. Everyone that saw it said if it was any other brand I would have broken all 4 arms. I just laughed.
just make sure to check the screws that go into the suspension hangers. after a few good cartwheels, they can get bent and it's not immediately noticeable. fortunately, it's an easy fix (much easier than a broken arm).
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:53 PM   #8514
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Sean I would agree 8.5 is a good start I also run a 6.5 but your just getting back in 8.5 would be good . But I have seen you wheel an FE boat and I think you would have no problem with a 8.5 or 6.5 I run with the guys at MMEU thats were I saw you run think it was the P shootout or
the Mich Cup . I think myself coming from RC cars then to FE boats that you will find a sensored ESC to be smoother than are FE ESC that feel more like an on off switch
Hey Tony!
I remember talking with you at the P-shoot out about motorcycles. Small world. Thanks for the insight on the sensored systems. What tracks are you racing at? I might start traveling for the cars too.
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:06 PM   #8515
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[IMG][/IMG]

figured i post this up since theres literally one picture of this body on the internet. JConcepts Silencer. Doesn't get near the love as the Type R does. My buddy just hooked it up with a pretty sic paint job.
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:20 PM   #8516
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Just wondering is there any advantage in running the exotek spur gear, i stripped the stock spur and was wondering should i just replace it with the stock one or upgrade to the exotek.
YES!

i`m using the Exotek one since december.
/was esting it for him/ and i still running the same one.
awesome product!
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:50 PM   #8517
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I am racing at a local indoor track it's only 15 minutes from my front door so it's pretty convenient. It's called the RC clubhouse they host a lot big races one coming up next month think it's the J concepts invitational we do have a good amount of tracks in my area I can think of 5 off the top of my head that are within an hour of me. Got my D413 when they first came out have not broken anything so far I think you will really like it
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:10 PM   #8518
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Just out off curiosity has any one else stripped an engine mount, i find that if only just tighten it, it comes loose and if i over tighten it it stripps, I'm really struggling to find that sweet spot.
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:23 PM   #8519
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Just out off curiosity has any one else stripped an engine mount, i find that if only just tighten it, it comes loose and if i over tighten it it stripps, I'm really struggling to find that sweet spot.
Sorry to say, there is no "sweet spot"... stripped is stripped. You will have to replace it, or you may be able to drill it out and tap it to the next size larger screw.
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:42 PM   #8520
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Sorry to say, there is no "sweet spot"... stripped is stripped. You will have to replace it, or you may be able to drill it out and tap it to the next size larger screw.
Thanks for your response but i was talking about the sweet spot on the new engine mount as i really don't want to strip another one.
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