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Old 03-22-2015, 06:44 AM
  #8491  
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I'd say 6.5 is a good all around motor. When on a small track I just turn the radio down to 75% throttle. No use getting a 13.5 then realizing it's not enough for your track. These are 4 wheelers, they like lotsa power
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:51 AM
  #8492  
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Originally Posted by HSV427
Just wondering is there any advantage in running the exotek spur gear, i stripped the stock spur and was wondering should i just replace it with the stock one or upgrade to the exotek.
I'm sure the Exotek is a good upgrade but make sure you have a good look and make sure there isn't a reason the original one stripped in the first place. I've had mine a few months and the stock spur is still fine. I think with all the talk about the stock ones being a little out of round, some are leaving the mesh a little looser than it should be.
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:20 AM
  #8493  
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Anyone have issue with the center diff leaking? Those super small screws are not very good I don't think strip the diff case easy if over tightened.
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:42 AM
  #8494  
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Originally Posted by turtle189
Anyone have issue with the center diff leaking? Those super small screws are not very good I don't think strip the diff case easy if over tightened.
Make sure and take your time using the right tool. Did you use a .050 or the 1.3mm driver? .050 fits a lot tighter. And when you tighten them down do it like a car tire, don't cinch them down in a circle, go in a star pattern. Make sure you don't over tighten them.
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:26 AM
  #8495  
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Originally Posted by turtle189
Anyone have issue with the center diff leaking? Those super small screws are not very good I don't think strip the diff case easy if over tightened.
I did.over tightened too so I replaced with new stock one and ordered spare, then next day exotek comes out with there's that solves the problem. The stock replacement seem to be little harder plastic and no leaking since.
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:55 AM
  #8496  
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Originally Posted by CaseyD
Make sure and take your time using the right tool. Did you use a .050 or the 1.3mm driver? .050 fits a lot tighter. And when you tighten them down do it like a car tire, don't cinch them down in a circle, go in a star pattern. Make sure you don't over tighten them.
I did use the right hex and a star pattern. I just think the screws should be a bit bigger thread size. I bought this used was leaking a bit I changed gasket and oring but when put back together leaks worse. Two of the screws didn't tighten up all that great.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:42 AM
  #8497  
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Originally Posted by turtle189
I did use the right hex and a star pattern. I just think the screws should be a bit bigger thread size. I bought this used was leaking a bit I changed gasket and oring but when put back together leaks worse. Two of the screws didn't tighten up all that great.
Mine has also been leaking. I assembled with much care abd the second time I put gasket sealer, haven't ran it yet.
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Old 03-22-2015, 09:56 AM
  #8498  
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Overfilling maybe?
Fill to top of cross pins then install final sun gear and spur/cover.
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:48 AM
  #8499  
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I’m looking to get back into buggies and was wondering if a 3800kv Neu-Castle motor would be a good entry point for me with this kit. I haven’t raced since the late 80s (RC10 for 2wd and Kyosho Optima Mid for 4wd).

I have pretty much decided on the D413. Has the parts supply improved much? I see Amain and Tower carry parts. Are there any other US online stores that are trust worthy as well?
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Old 03-22-2015, 03:18 PM
  #8500  
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while that is a good motor, I think you'd be much happier with a sensored system
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:03 PM
  #8501  
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Originally Posted by dan-o
while that is a good motor, I think you'd be much happier with a sensored system
Glad I asked. I'm familiar with sensorless ESCs and motors from racing fast electric boats, but didn't realize the cars benefited from sensored power systems. What would be a compatible sensoed setup in the 3800 kv range?

Thanks
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:18 PM
  #8502  
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Originally Posted by RENOV8R
I'm sure the Exotek is a good upgrade but make sure you have a good look and make sure there isn't a reason the original one stripped in the first place. I've had mine a few months and the stock spur is still fine. I think with all the talk about the stock ones being a little out of round, some are leaving the mesh a little looser than it should be.
I found the problem with why i stripped the original, it was due to my motor coming loose, i think I've over tightened the motor mount and may have stripped it cause it just won't tighten up, just as it starts to get tight it gets to that point and then just spins and becomes loose.
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:32 PM
  #8503  
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Originally Posted by SeanKewley
Glad I asked. I'm familiar with sensorless ESCs and motors from racing fast electric boats, but didn't realize the cars benefited from sensored power systems. What would be a compatible sensoed setup in the 3800 kv range?

Thanks
It kind of in between a 13.5 and a 10.5.
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Old 03-22-2015, 04:47 PM
  #8504  
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Most people usually replace the motor button head screws with a hex cap to get better torque when tightening it down. The button heads want to strip easy.

As for motors if your new to 4w Buggy, definitely recommend a 7.5 for a great starting point. Plenty of rip and power, even on a couple of the 1/8 tracks I've been to
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Old 03-22-2015, 05:02 PM
  #8505  
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Originally Posted by Qrio
Just bought this buggy and new into RC.

Any advice as to what is a good ESC/Motor combo for starters?
Buy the slowest motor you can that will still clear the biggest jumps at your track. Seriously.

If you're inexperienced, a 5.5 and 6.5 will be way too fast/powerful. A 7.5 may work. I'd probably recommend a 8.5 though for most tracks. Do not attempt to "turn down" a 5.5 or 6.5.

There are plenty of brands that will do just fine. I'm personally familiar with Tekin and run the RSX and RS Gen 2 with a 6.5, 8.5, and 10.5, depending on the track. You can crank up the 10.5 to be pretty dang fast for top speed although the torque of that wind will not clear super-big jumps.

Ask people at your track what motor they are running, if they have it "turned up" with boost, and how easy it is to clear the biggest jumps you may encounter. Then, go with the slowest one you hear.
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