Xray XB4 thread
#9271
[QUOTE=oclock;14260361]
No worries on your English my friend, as it's just fine. 3mm should be good however it sounds like you have a break.
PM me a picture if you can. I will PM you my email if that makes it easier.
PM me a picture if you can. I will PM you my email if that makes it easier.
#9272
#9273
I got it my friend. You look to have it together right. Have you installed it fully into the chassis yet? If you have not then fully install. Once installed you should be able to adjust the preload nut.
If you have installed it fully and cannot adjust the preload. You will need to take the servo saver apart fully.
I see the bubbling in the pic. Part looks faulty or it could be bubbled if thread lock was sitting on the plastic.
If you have installed it fully and cannot adjust the preload. You will need to take the servo saver apart fully.
I see the bubbling in the pic. Part looks faulty or it could be bubbled if thread lock was sitting on the plastic.
#9274
The thread lock goes on the preload nut and just a tad at that. Personally I don't use it on the preload nut.
#9275
I can use the servo saver, but i cant tune it, and if my servo suck, i cant save it its and the manuall told me to glue it with blue , i did, and its spinning in the plastig, look at the picture, u see a bulge in it
I reazalise what can be reaad above is hard to get, ill happile adress questions in this thread.
I will keep warinng for new builders up, servo saver in manual is wrong. forget 3-4 mm, go 0
art
I reazalise what can be reaad above is hard to get, ill happile adress questions in this thread.
I will keep warinng for new builders up, servo saver in manual is wrong. forget 3-4 mm, go 0
art
I see you are located in Oslo.
Instead of posting a ton of posts here and not feeling you get the help needed I'll be happy to meet you at Oslo Modellbilklubb's track at Hvervenbukta to give you a few tips and hints on the build.
There's no problem getting 3-4 mm on the servo saver spring as the spring settles. As mentioned before if you're only getting 2.5-3mm at first then use this for the first run and then readjust at the track if needed.
I also suggest you to join the Facebook group of Oslo Modellbilklubb 1/10 Offroad where you can easily ask questions and upload pictures.
Here you can also get help with setup for the astro tracks in Oslo or indoor track in Moss.
Bent
#9276
If you don't compress the spring with a set of pliers prior to building it the servo saver spring will quickly settle once you start running it out on track.
Same method is advised for the slipper spring as well. Compress the spring a few times with a set of pliers before assembly.
Bent
#9277
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Art, just use a set of needle nose pliers to grab the inside and outside of the servo saver while you loosen the nut for the spring.
I see you are located in Oslo.
Instead of posting a ton of posts here and not feeling you get the help needed I'll be happy to meet you at Oslo Modellbilklubb's track at Hvervenbukta to give you a few tips and hints on the build.
There's no problem getting 3-4 mm on the servo saver spring as the spring settles. As mentioned before if you're only getting 2.5-3mm at first then use this for the first run and then readjust at the track if needed.
I also suggest you to join the Facebook group of Oslo Modellbilklubb 1/10 Offroad where you can easily ask questions and upload pictures.
Here you can also get help with setup for the astro tracks in Oslo or indoor track in Moss.
Bent
I see you are located in Oslo.
Instead of posting a ton of posts here and not feeling you get the help needed I'll be happy to meet you at Oslo Modellbilklubb's track at Hvervenbukta to give you a few tips and hints on the build.
There's no problem getting 3-4 mm on the servo saver spring as the spring settles. As mentioned before if you're only getting 2.5-3mm at first then use this for the first run and then readjust at the track if needed.
I also suggest you to join the Facebook group of Oslo Modellbilklubb 1/10 Offroad where you can easily ask questions and upload pictures.
Here you can also get help with setup for the astro tracks in Oslo or indoor track in Moss.
Bent
Took off the spring, I few light compressions with the pliers got me to 3mm relatively easily with a good amount of resistance.
It's all gone together very well, although I am missing a front bull cup nut and conical shim. Perhaps it's ended up in the shock bags which I will tackle tonight.
#9278
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
I built my servo saver last night first without compressing the spring. I could do it but could only achieve 0-1mm.
Took off the spring, I few light compressions with the pliers got me to 3mm relatively easily with a good amount of resistance.
It's all gone together very well, although I am missing a front bull cup nut and conical shim. Perhaps it's ended up in the shock bags which I will tackle tonight.
Took off the spring, I few light compressions with the pliers got me to 3mm relatively easily with a good amount of resistance.
It's all gone together very well, although I am missing a front bull cup nut and conical shim. Perhaps it's ended up in the shock bags which I will tackle tonight.
P.s I have a set of Orange exotek rear hubs if anyone is interested pm me.
Last edited by suby723; 11-11-2015 at 01:24 PM.
#9280
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
I mounted the radio gear last night. Unfortunately, it's like installing radio gear into a Durango. but it's not quite as hard as a Durango.
I got their in the end and I'm happy with it now.
Time to hit the track. I'm excited.
I got their in the end and I'm happy with it now.
Time to hit the track. I'm excited.
Last edited by Boz; 11-11-2015 at 10:36 PM.
#9283
Tech Addict
iTrader: (30)
Wondering if any one else has the same problem, i set my car up with the motor in the rear position but the nut and screw that holds the side pod to the chassis just behind the motor is stoping me from fitting my motor, the only way i can get my motor in is not to run that screw which means that the side pod will only be held by 2 screws the one at the front and the one at the rear, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
#9284
Is it normal for the 2016 xb4 to be very loud when you use it? I had a 2014 one and it was pretty quiet when i raced it.
I was curious if the newer steel ring/pinion gears are what makes it so loud...or do i need to look at things closer? My gear mesh is perfect. It just sounds really loud compared to all the other cars at the track.
Anyone?
I was curious if the newer steel ring/pinion gears are what makes it so loud...or do i need to look at things closer? My gear mesh is perfect. It just sounds really loud compared to all the other cars at the track.
Anyone?
#9285
Is it normal for the 2016 xb4 to be very loud when you use it? I had a 2014 one and it was pretty quiet when i raced it.
I was curious if the newer steel ring/pinion gears are what makes it so loud...or do i need to look at things closer? My gear mesh is perfect. It just sounds really loud compared to all the other cars at the track.
Anyone?
I was curious if the newer steel ring/pinion gears are what makes it so loud...or do i need to look at things closer? My gear mesh is perfect. It just sounds really loud compared to all the other cars at the track.
Anyone?