Arigato

iTrader: (1)

Yes.

leongkc

iTrader: (9)

Trust me...its that 20 degrees timing that is heating everything up.
Remove it.

T3tsaya

iTrader: (10)

So if i put the esc on blinky and the motor on 15 because that's as low as it goes I should be fine as long as I put my spur at 84 and gear the pinion accordingly

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

Gearing is a critical thing. Get a full range of gears in your box.
Here's a good article on proper gearing.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ear_ratios.pdf
And if the math is too complicated, heres a gearing calculator.
http://gearing.rcgearhead.com/Gearing/Browse

T3tsaya

iTrader: (10)

That was helpful but the xb4 doesn't have some of the stuff mentioned there like for a 4wd car it mentioned pulleys and this car uses diffs so I can figure the ratio between my spur and pinion but how do I get the rest sorry for being such a pain just never really had to do much with heat. I would always just pinion down if it was too hot thanks for the help I really appreciate it

T3tsaya

iTrader: (10)

Okay I think I figured it out and with the 16/81 I wa running it says that's I'm running a fdr of 12.66 and for a 6.5 in this car it recommends a fdr of 10 or 11 which would mean I need a 19 or 20 tooth pinion but I'm almost positive that my car would melt with gearing that high so I put the 84 tooth pinion on and with 16/84 I'm at a fdr of 13.13 so what should I do for my 100x50 tight track. Like I said I took the timing to 15 on the motor can which is as low as I can go and I'm in blinky on my esc

BentKa

19 to 20 pinion with a standard spur with a 6.5T no added timing on the motor is what we have been running all season (except 7.5T on very loose tracks).

I would try a 19T and standard spur for a track of that size.
And set the motor to the standard timing it came with to avoid unnecessary heat build up and add a bit of boost instead if needed down the straight

Bent

macke

My alu chassis was slightly bent right out of the box... Didn't lay flat on a perfectly flat surface. I contacted Xray support and they never heard of any other with the same "problem". Anyway, when attached to the composite chassis part it straighten itself out and seemed flat so I didn't bother.

But... Now after 4-5 race days I can see the rear being slightly bent upwards. I absolutely love this car and I haven't broke a part on it. I have used it solely on carpet and can't see any sign of wear except for the slight bend. I have seen the same tendency on other XB4s as well. Use a caliper or a metal ruler on its side and hold it against the rear of the alu chassis and you will probably see a gap at the very rear end.

macke

Seems like you are under geared instead of over geared. Try a 18T or 19T. Changing to a 84T spur will probably make it even worse...

The timing on the can differs between manufacturers. 20 degrees is not necessarily that much. It depends on the motor. My Viper VST motors comes with 30 degrees of timing on the motor (default) and are adjustable +-15 degrees from that (i.e. they can have 15-45 degrees of timing on the motor).

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

Exactly the issue I have. It may only be the slightest bit and maybe not enough to have a noticeable effect the rear geometry but it is the kind of thing that for me when I know it's not right I lose confidence in the car. Between that and wanting the ability to stiffen the chassis even more I would love to see a stiffer/stronger chassis.

advpball

iTrader: (30)

Just noticed my front tires barcode golds are worn a lot more than the rears?
Think that the problem is center diff to tight or oil in front to low running 5k front and 3 in rear? Stock foams in front ,running 8.5 motor so not over geared ,but car is a little squarely in rear? to much steering? running mostly stock setup.

hobdog

iTrader: (19)

That's normal. Every four wheeler I have had no matter what the diff weights, my front tires always wear faster then the rears

T3tsaya

iTrader: (10)

What made me go down to a 16 was that I was getting 165 to 170's with a 19t pinion im not really sure what to do not I mean im on a 100x75 track

BentKa

You've gotten all the correct advice in the last posts in this thread and on PM's with videos to show you track size etc.

Now go out and try the suggested changes as those are what works for all the rest of us

Bent

Bortzilla

iTrader: (26)

What kind of brake strength are people with a Tekin RS Pro/Tekin motor running? I'm @ 65 on a med traction/smooth indoor clay track. Am I at risk of messing up the gears with that much or is 65 a good #? Thanks!