symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Took my truck apart today after yesterdays race. With an electric driver and some bits, this thing is really easy to take apart. Apparently my diffs leaked some, used some greenslime on the gaskets. No problems or wear on the drivetrain. Im extremely pleased with the truck, thanks associated.

GreenSC10

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the tip Ill check it out, could be the driver and I was using Double Dee's, so it was a little slick

225Superduty

Got mine together today bought the 1415/MMP combo geared it up its very torquey 26/87 48P need to find 32P equivalent. The motor fits ok I installed before I bolted the rear section to the main chassis. Had to dremel a little at the rear of the motor so it would slide back further. hardly noticeable because that huge motor covers where I ground. I turned on my Dx3s to test it bind it and center the servo. My scrolling wheel broke so I couldn't even drive today. remedied that problem with a brand New DX3R Pro from Indy R/C raceway and hobbies thanks guys. so far I think its gonna be a tough one to beat

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

Because they want to pawn off some more sidewinders, I don't know.

They do have a separate p/n for the motor on their website, but I have not seen anybody carry it separate, except people separating them on ebay.

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

FYI... this needs to be in the first post to save people some money.

The fitment of the Proline Protrac wheels sucks.

The wheel bottoms out on the raised shoulder of the hex before the wheel bore engages the axle. This makes it wobbly, and combined with the thicker hub, the nyloc nut doesn't fit well.

I think this wheel MIGHT work with a hex that doesn't have the shoulder, perhaps the Tekno slash 4x4 one. Until then these protrac wheels are going on the shelf.

Aoh

iTrader: (16)

Going into the turns the truck was doing the same things mine was, namely over-rotating and too much body roll, making the inside tires lift a bit. Chris's setup adresses all those issues and the car will be much much more forgiving allowing you to drive way more aggressively. Use it as a starting point and adjust accordingly, ESP since it looks like your track is a lil tighter than the ones we run on.

murky123

you are the first I have heard about this.
I think we need more confirmation on this before taking it to the start post.

highhigh

yup, more confirmation would be necessary.

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

people were bitching about the nut not hitting the nyloc several times in this thread... that is part of the reason why. i tried these protracs on a SCTE and it was the same deal.

They will fit, and you'll be able to crank a nut on there, but feel how sloppy they are compared to the stock wheels. If anyone else has them, try this and report back. I've seen plenty say they fit, but this set I have does not.

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

They fit all funky because they are not seated fully against the hex. The Prolines are not a true 6mm, so you need to drill them out. You need a 15/64 drill bit, then they fit nice and tight.

CentralCoaster

iTrader: (4)

Pretty sure that part of the axle is 5mm though, not 6mm. It steps down from the part with the bearing.

I busted out the calipers... the proline hex is a hair deeper, and the wheel bore has a radius to it on the inside edge. So between those two differences it doesn't grab onto that little 5mm part of the axle like the stock wheel does, which holds it in place nicely.

225Superduty

I have 2wd slash rear wheels all the around on mine. They have the same amount of backspacing as our stock wheels 41 mm. Protrac wheels are only 31mm offset. I did buy some traxxas Knurled nuts though.

grubster

iTrader: (5)

Where is his set-up posted?

SWAMPER

wheel hexes, does anyone make alum. locking ones that will fit ?

mfcoupe32

thanks Kellog. will do