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Old 02-08-2011, 11:03 PM   #2071
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ok, now i have an actual temp of my motor!

it was 115 Fahrenheit after 10mins of normal driving so i guess thats ok if 120 is the piont at which it becomes a problem, cheers for the info on this guys helps a lot, being my first off-road car, i just cant belive how hot 115 actually is, cant hold my finger on the motor for more then a second...but now i know its ok.

and if anyone interested, putting the timing to 0 degrees on the motor slows it down ALOT, it was like a slug with no timing on the endbell, but then again after driving with some turbo and boost then going to no boost no timing what did i expect
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Old 02-09-2011, 02:24 AM   #2072
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I tried that 3.5 silver arrow in my hyper sc, its going to need a very powerful esc, my vxl on 2 cell lipo would thermal within minutes even with 9 tooth pinion, I think tekin rx8 might handle that motor, its overkill for the tt though. My tt runs great with a 7 turn duo 3 and vxl on 2 cell. 540 motors seem fine for this truck, IMO.

Well I was thinking guys were running warm with 540s and 550 guys were getting out run by 540 guys. I seen it and was thinking the old 2 birds 1 stone you know. I can't afford an rx8, maybe a 150amp track star or something similar. If I can find some contact info on speed passions site and ask what how many amps it needs.

Thanks much for the info easyryder, can you tell me was your truck fast before your esc would thermal?
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Old 02-09-2011, 05:02 AM   #2073
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don't forget the token mexican...lol
go back to sleep......
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Old 02-09-2011, 05:12 AM   #2074
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ok, now i have an actual temp of my motor!

it was 115 Fahrenheit after 10mins of normal driving so i guess thats ok if 120 is the piont at which it becomes a problem, cheers for the info on this guys helps a lot, being my first off-road car, i just cant belive how hot 115 actually is, cant hold my finger on the motor for more then a second...but now i know its ok.

and if anyone interested, putting the timing to 0 degrees on the motor slows it down ALOT, it was like a slug with no timing on the endbell, but then again after driving with some turbo and boost then going to no boost no timing what did i expect
Most motors can go to 140 after a 10 min main without issue..that would be the max I would go, any hotter than that you need to tone it down a little.

yeah 120 is actually pretty hot. Try heating a metal pan on the stove to 120 and hold your hand over it...it feels hot and you wouldn't keep your finger on it very long if at all. Now you can race without temp concerns..have fun.


Also guys try and keep the TT thread on subject about the good /bad, fun, accomplishments, class growth and the hop up found to cure issues ALL new cars have. The back and forth bickering and crying ruins a thread real quick and turns people away ....the Hyper TT still needs positive support for growth.

Mike
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Old 02-09-2011, 06:06 AM   #2075
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Most motors can go to 140 after a 10 min main without issue..that would be the max I would go, any hotter than that you need to tone it down a little.

yeah 120 is actually pretty hot. Try heating a metal pan on the stove to 120 and hold your hand over it...it feels hot and you wouldn't keep your finger on it very long if at all. Now you can race without temp concerns..have fun.


Also guys try and keep the TT thread on subject about the good /bad, fun, accomplishments, class growth and the hop up found to cure issues ALL new cars have. The back and forth bickering and crying ruins a thread real quick and turns people away ....the Hyper TT still needs positive support for growth.

Mike
+1 for keeping it on subject

i also installed a heatsink with fan, not necasarry i realise now, but at least it will cool down quicker in between runs, now i can turn the turbo and boost settings back up cheers for that info Mike!

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Old 02-09-2011, 06:41 AM   #2076
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Originally Posted by Sackamous View Post
Well I was thinking guys were running warm with 540s and 550 guys were getting out run by 540 guys. I seen it and was thinking the old 2 birds 1 stone you know. I can't afford an rx8, maybe a 150amp track star or something similar. If I can find some contact info on speed passions site and ask what how many amps it needs.

Thanks much for the info easyryder, can you tell me was your truck fast before your esc would thermal?
It of course was very fast, I bet a hobbywing 1/8 scale esc could handle it, but no sensor port.
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:11 AM   #2077
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i wasnt being a smart a$$ but maybe you should give the whole story when you post stuff like that. I appoligize if i was rude i was just being honest knuckles break wether you wanna belive it or not it happens, its a weak spot.
It does not matter how they break, but that are a weak point on the truck. All I asked it there was a fix or stronger part out there, no history is needed in this case. Next time if you don't know the answer don't post anything.
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:12 AM   #2078
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It does not matter how they break, but that are a weak point on the truck. All I asked it there was a fix or stronger part out there, no history is needed in this case. Next time if you don't know the answer don't post anything.
+1

Servo saver is another part that I would like to see improved.....
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Old 02-09-2011, 07:49 AM   #2079
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It does not matter how they break, but that are a weak point on the truck. All I asked it there was a fix or stronger part out there, no history is needed in this case. Next time if you don't know the answer don't post anything.
Ok look i said i was sorry if i upset you but it is a free country and i can say anything i please anytime i wish. Also im pretty sure i said that there was not any fix for that problem and there is no fix, so i guess i do know what im talking about. Wait sorry there is a fix buy extra knuckles.
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:00 AM   #2080
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Hey all, My TT is showing up today and I have a couple quick questions. For those of you running 540 motors, what are you running and what type of gearing? Also, anyone tried the rear hub carriers from a Jammin SCRT10 to see if they will work? Reason I ask is I have an extra set of alloy carriers for the Jammin and would put them on if they fit with little modification. Last, what seems to be the breaking point on these? I see there have been some issues with the servo saver assembly, anything else seem to be weak?
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:04 AM   #2081
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Default front knuckles

Although not a fix, but the current band aid seems to boil them. I believe this will still allow the pillow ball to pull out, but doesn't break the knuckle in the process. Since this seems to be an issue someone will come up with something better pretty quick.

Mine was real good the other day.
My set up is
stock springs
35 front oil 30 rear
diffs 3/7/1 ( I have plenty of steering with NO mods)
dog bones level front and back.
540 motor 8.5..stock gearing 13/ stock blue spur.
Tekin RS PRO full boost/ 10 turbo .5 delay ramp 2 (check temps although mine is fine 115 deg.) This thing is very very driveable and has a ton of power.

I did lay my lipo down and move it forward drilling 2 new holes.

I tried the blue springs and the car was actually too responsive to steering for me.

The stock tires with better foams were decent at our clay track, however suburbs in MC (clay) compound makes the thing drive like it's on carpet.

Mike
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:57 AM   #2082
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Originally Posted by miket3 View Post
Although not a fix, but the current band aid seems to boil them. I believe this will still allow the pillow ball to pull out, but doesn't break the knuckle in the process. Since this seems to be an issue someone will come up with something better pretty quick.

Mine was real good the other day.
My set up is
stock springs
35 front oil 30 rear
diffs 3/7/1 ( I have plenty of steering with NO mods)
dog bones level front and back.
540 motor 8.5..stock gearing 13/ stock blue spur.
Tekin RS PRO full boost/ 10 turbo .5 delay ramp 2 (check temps although mine is fine 115 deg.) This thing is very very driveable and has a ton of power.

I did lay my lipo down and move it forward drilling 2 new holes.

I tried the blue springs and the car was actually too responsive to steering for me.

The stock tires with better foams were decent at our clay track, however suburbs in MC (clay) compound makes the thing drive like it's on carpet.

Mike
thanks for the post, very informative. Im gonna try out your set up next time at the track...
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:03 AM   #2083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miket3 View Post
Most motors can go to 140 after a 10 min main without issue..that would be the max I would go, any hotter than that you need to tone it down a little.

yeah 120 is actually pretty hot. Try heating a metal pan on the stove to 120 and hold your hand over it...it feels hot and you wouldn't keep your finger on it very long if at all. Now you can race without temp concerns..have fun.


Also guys try and keep the TT thread on subject about the good /bad, fun, accomplishments, class growth and the hop up found to cure issues ALL new cars have. The back and forth bickering and crying ruins a thread real quick and turns people away ....the Hyper TT still needs positive support for growth.

Mike
Castle has emailed me in the past and said that anything under 170 shouldnt be a problem. Maybe thats just their motors?
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:14 AM   #2084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miket3 View Post
Although not a fix, but the current band aid seems to boil them. I believe this will still allow the pillow ball to pull out, but doesn't break the knuckle in the process. Since this seems to be an issue someone will come up with something better pretty quick.

Mine was real good the other day.
My set up is
stock springs
35 front oil 30 rear
diffs 3/7/1 ( I have plenty of steering with NO mods)
dog bones level front and back.
540 motor 8.5..stock gearing 13/ stock blue spur.
Tekin RS PRO full boost/ 10 turbo .5 delay ramp 2 (check temps although mine is fine 115 deg.) This thing is very very driveable and has a ton of power.

I did lay my lipo down and move it forward drilling 2 new holes.

I tried the blue springs and the car was actually too responsive to steering for me.

The stock tires with better foams were decent at our clay track, however suburbs in MC (clay) compound makes the thing drive like it's on carpet.

Mike
hey when are you guys coming back to pg. would nice to run a class of these. i am still the only with one. have not even driven it since you guys were there.
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:33 AM   #2085
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Originally Posted by Joe..Cool View Post
It does not matter how they break, but that are a weak point on the truck. All I asked it there was a fix or stronger part out there, no history is needed in this case. Next time if you don't know the answer don't post anything.


Quote:
Originally Posted by slowslug View Post
the only fix is to stop crashing and if they do break replace them sorry for the bad news.

Seems like he did know the answer.

if you guys want the bickering to stop then STFU
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