Losi 8ight building and setup
07-06-2007, 11:08 PM
#4366
All I got out of my VG was a un-tunable pile that would flame out on every extended run and get about 6-7 minutes/tank at best. Ran awesome for 5 minute quals, but haven't finished a main with it yet.
Oh well, my new Novarossi 3 port will run 8 and 1/2 minutes tuned a little rich and is a much smoother engine.
Oh well, my new Novarossi 3 port will run 8 and 1/2 minutes tuned a little rich and is a much smoother engine.
As much as my VG has torqued me off, I've wanted to skip it across the concrete or beat it to death with a sledge hammer
However, with all the good luck everyone else has had with theirs, I'm going to tear it down, seal everything up really tight and try it out in a different car around the end of August I figure I'll reset the needles and try a different plug (either the R-5 or another brand in place of the #8) and hope for better luck then.
It always seems to be after about 8-9 minutes I have problems (and yes it's after it's been refueled). Would an air leak issue affect it then or would it more likely be a tuning/glow plug issue? It's always temped under 255, but that was with a DuraTrax gun...I don't know if I trust it completely, so I bought a O'Donnel to go with the Novarossi after watching it temp consistent with my buddies $250 gun.
Yesterday 09:35 PM
However, with all the good luck everyone else has had with theirs, I'm going to tear it down, seal everything up really tight and try it out in a different car around the end of August I figure I'll reset the needles and try a different plug (either the R-5 or another brand in place of the #8) and hope for better luck then.
It always seems to be after about 8-9 minutes I have problems (and yes it's after it's been refueled). Would an air leak issue affect it then or would it more likely be a tuning/glow plug issue? It's always temped under 255, but that was with a DuraTrax gun...I don't know if I trust it completely, so I bought a O'Donnel to go with the Novarossi after watching it temp consistent with my buddies $250 gun.
Yesterday 09:35 PM
07-07-2007, 05:49 PM
#4367
hey guys.
i just made a huge purchase at amain and bmain hobbies. i ordered myself an 8ight Truggy and literally every aluminum or titanium piece you can get for it, some carbon pieces too. as soon as I get it i am going to strip the stock plastic stuff and start upgrading it. is anyone running the truggy on short tight tracks? how is the set up out of the box? what adjustments should i make right away?
i just made a huge purchase at amain and bmain hobbies. i ordered myself an 8ight Truggy and literally every aluminum or titanium piece you can get for it, some carbon pieces too. as soon as I get it i am going to strip the stock plastic stuff and start upgrading it. is anyone running the truggy on short tight tracks? how is the set up out of the box? what adjustments should i make right away?
07-09-2007, 08:48 AM
#4369
hey guys.
i just made a huge purchase at amain and bmain hobbies. i ordered myself an 8ight Truggy and literally every aluminum or titanium piece you can get for it, some carbon pieces too. as soon as I get it i am going to strip the stock plastic stuff and start upgrading it. is anyone running the truggy on short tight tracks? how is the set up out of the box? what adjustments should i make right away?
i just made a huge purchase at amain and bmain hobbies. i ordered myself an 8ight Truggy and literally every aluminum or titanium piece you can get for it, some carbon pieces too. as soon as I get it i am going to strip the stock plastic stuff and start upgrading it. is anyone running the truggy on short tight tracks? how is the set up out of the box? what adjustments should i make right away?
07-09-2007, 09:05 AM
#4370
Tech Fanatic
While racing yesterday I noticed a strange ratcheting noise that sounded like gears skipping over teeth. The clutch bell was a bit worn and the teeth were a bit sharp but not rolled over so I ruled that out. Gear mesh was on the far side of acceptable but not too loose.
The rear diff however was worn and the teeth were rounded over so I replaced them. However, I still have the problem. I have yet to do a total tear down but I'm stumped. Could this be caused by the plastic rear diff inserts and solved with those aluminum ones?
The rear diff however was worn and the teeth were rounded over so I replaced them. However, I still have the problem. I have yet to do a total tear down but I'm stumped. Could this be caused by the plastic rear diff inserts and solved with those aluminum ones?
07-09-2007, 09:30 AM
#4371
Check those and also check the gear case for cracks. It is probably that the bearing inserts are worn out.
07-09-2007, 09:50 AM
#4372
I recommend that if you strip those gears you should replace the inserts AND the housing that they fit into.
07-09-2007, 09:53 AM
#4373
Check your center diff front bearing to make sure it's not bad, the insert isn't bad, and also there isn't a loose fit for any of those parts with one anther or the fit into the center diff upright part.
07-09-2007, 10:51 AM
#4374
Tech Rookie
While racing yesterday I noticed a strange ratcheting noise that sounded like gears skipping over teeth. The clutch bell was a bit worn and the teeth were a bit sharp but not rolled over so I ruled that out. Gear mesh was on the far side of acceptable but not too loose.
The rear diff however was worn and the teeth were rounded over so I replaced them. However, I still have the problem. I have yet to do a total tear down but I'm stumped. Could this be caused by the plastic rear diff inserts and solved with those aluminum ones?
The rear diff however was worn and the teeth were rounded over so I replaced them. However, I still have the problem. I have yet to do a total tear down but I'm stumped. Could this be caused by the plastic rear diff inserts and solved with those aluminum ones?
i notice my centre diff spur gear had a slight chip in one of the teeth and some others were worn. swopped the gear for a new one and its fine again now, didnt look bad enough to be the problem but it was.
07-09-2007, 11:57 AM
#4375
ok here is all the stuff i ordered
8ight t
king heads 7075 shoes
front and rear chassis braces
aluminum front top brace
aluminum servo top
aluminum servo horn
aluminum rear bearin inserts
center bearing insert aluminum
lunsford titanium hing pin turnbuckle kit
lunsford titanium kin pin
lunsford shock standoff
gmk cvd condoms
dace rear skid plate
m2c rear hinge plate and front plate
carbon mud gaurds
carbon disc rotors
i need to know what the best steering servo to use is for this truggy. i have a ko propo 2368. specs are .15 with 186 oz in. i was thinking of waiting to get a jr z9000t. any other suggestions or should i use what i have?
8ight t
king heads 7075 shoes
front and rear chassis braces
aluminum front top brace
aluminum servo top
aluminum servo horn
aluminum rear bearin inserts
center bearing insert aluminum
lunsford titanium hing pin turnbuckle kit
lunsford titanium kin pin
lunsford shock standoff
gmk cvd condoms
dace rear skid plate
m2c rear hinge plate and front plate
carbon mud gaurds
carbon disc rotors
i need to know what the best steering servo to use is for this truggy. i have a ko propo 2368. specs are .15 with 186 oz in. i was thinking of waiting to get a jr z9000t. any other suggestions or should i use what i have?
07-09-2007, 11:57 AM
#4376
joecool - I would argue that there is really no reason for hop-ups on the 8IGHT-T (and the buggy as well). The kit includes the parts it does for a reason.
A radio tray brace serves no function, and the chassis braces will make the truck stiffer, which can result in a truck that's harder to drive. My truggy stands as it came out of the box, with a different clutch setup.
Of those parts, I would run the aluminum servo saver top, the servo horn, the rear bearing inserts, the center bearing insert, turnbuckle and king pin kits, shock standoffs, and the mudguards. The CVD condoms and the M2C pivot blocks are optional.
My 8IGHT-T stands as it came out of the box, with a different clutch setup. That's literally all I've changed.
A radio tray brace serves no function, and the chassis braces will make the truck stiffer, which can result in a truck that's harder to drive. My truggy stands as it came out of the box, with a different clutch setup.
Of those parts, I would run the aluminum servo saver top, the servo horn, the rear bearing inserts, the center bearing insert, turnbuckle and king pin kits, shock standoffs, and the mudguards. The CVD condoms and the M2C pivot blocks are optional.
My 8IGHT-T stands as it came out of the box, with a different clutch setup. That's literally all I've changed.
07-09-2007, 01:23 PM
#4378
To be honest? Hardly ever, haha.
Make sure you store your buggy on a set of tires or a box or something to lift the tires off the ground, and that will stop the arms from warping. Other than that, the arms will last a long time. You have to put some serious effort into breaking one!
Suspension squeak is often from dirt in the hinge pins. Take the pins out, clean them, use a pipe cleaner in the holes in the arm and the pivot blocks, and the squeak should go away.
Make sure you store your buggy on a set of tires or a box or something to lift the tires off the ground, and that will stop the arms from warping. Other than that, the arms will last a long time. You have to put some serious effort into breaking one!
Suspension squeak is often from dirt in the hinge pins. Take the pins out, clean them, use a pipe cleaner in the holes in the arm and the pivot blocks, and the squeak should go away.
07-09-2007, 01:49 PM
#4379
I've swapped all four arms once just to eliminate a tuning issue I had. I thought the hinge pin holes were a little egged out. But I noticed no difference with the new arms. But at least I have a set of spares now. Aaron's right, those arms are seriously tough.
07-09-2007, 06:29 PM
#4380
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (11)
Need some advice on the 8ights shock spring retainers. At least one comes off everytime I race. They don't seem to be damaged or out of shape at all but they are older. I saw Fioroni has the aluminum ones but $46 for 4? would it make a difference?