Losi 8ight building and setup
07-03-2007, 07:17 PM
#4336
my stock losi clutch has had it. the shoes are really thin. im going to buy some king headz or m2c aluminum. do you guys have any good suggestions with a good set up? i run on an outdoor track with a bunch of tight corners and one long straight.
also im going to get a new rb c6bbt7. amianhobbies has 2 different moded versions, one by hotmods and one by ceopower mod. anyone know which one i should choose? im leaning towards the hot mod cause i have seen a hot mod novarossi p5 running really strong. gemmie your opinions.
also im going to get a new rb c6bbt7. amianhobbies has 2 different moded versions, one by hotmods and one by ceopower mod. anyone know which one i should choose? im leaning towards the hot mod cause i have seen a hot mod novarossi p5 running really strong. gemmie your opinions.
joecool- KHZ 7075 shoes with2 gold/ 2 silver, works sweet!!!!
07-04-2007, 08:51 AM
#4338
i agree do not get a modded c6bb, that is way too much power even for a truggy. You can't go wrong with EB mod v-spec.
07-04-2007, 12:51 PM
#4339
Tech Rookie
I just thought i'd try both of the two servos that delevoped an intermittent faults whilst on the throttle/ brake on my losi some time ago, both seem fine on the bench so i fitted both in turn to the steering to find if the intermittent problem occurred after extented running. Sure enough both servos after about 5 mins started not turning sometimes when i wanted it to ( as they did on the throttle).
Does anyone know what could actually be broken in the servo?? can they be repaired?
the two servos are ko propo 2344 and a 2343. Have been using ko's for a couple of years now and had zero problems until this, and still use one on the steering now.
Since using an ACE servo ( over 4 months now and i race ever sunday and practice once in the week) on the throttle/brake i haven't had any issues what so ever, i knew linkages were correct at the time.
Does anyone know what could actually be broken in the servo?? can they be repaired?
the two servos are ko propo 2344 and a 2343. Have been using ko's for a couple of years now and had zero problems until this, and still use one on the steering now.
Since using an ACE servo ( over 4 months now and i race ever sunday and practice once in the week) on the throttle/brake i haven't had any issues what so ever, i knew linkages were correct at the time.
07-04-2007, 02:49 PM
#4341
Tech Rookie
would a burnt motor work fine for a short time then fail intermittently?
07-04-2007, 05:03 PM
#4342
Tech Rookie
Does anyone have the base needle settings for the 8ight RTR. The 427 in mine is tough to start and when it does start it will either die immediately after removing the glow starter or it will idle up tremendously after giving it a little gas to keep it running. Any ideas?
07-04-2007, 05:11 PM
#4344
Tech Adept
Does anyone have the base needle settings for the 8ight RTR. The 427 in mine is tough to start and when it does start it will either die immediately after removing the glow starter or it will idle up tremendously after giving it a little gas to keep it running. Any ideas?
07-04-2007, 07:42 PM
#4345
Does anyone have the base needle settings for the 8ight RTR. The 427 in mine is tough to start and when it does start it will either die immediately after removing the glow starter or it will idle up tremendously after giving it a little gas to keep it running. Any ideas?
07-04-2007, 08:26 PM
#4346
Tech Rookie
Is it possible that the glow plug went bad during break in which then lead me to get the carb out of adjustment. What type of glow plug is recommended for the 427?
07-04-2007, 09:45 PM
#4347
Tech Adept
i'm using a MC-59 in mine
07-04-2007, 10:34 PM
#4348
yep, McCoys work well. My LHS had O.S. R5. So these are what I have always used with the Mach. I am very happy with the way mine has run. I have just about 8 gallons of fuel through mine so far. Never any tuning issues, way more power than I need, and motor always temps good. I don't own a temp gun, but when my friends pick the buggy up off the track they usually temp it. But to be able to use this engine, I have the servo endpoints set to only open the carb about 3/4 fully open. I check this with the air filter neck off. If I let the carb open fully, the chassis gets overloaded and handles poorly. This motor just has WAY more torque than needed on a buggy. My advice for newbs is to set the carb to not open all the way. Doing this would have solved a lot of traction, steering, handling issues for me. I should have done it from the start. But it's hard to tell yourself to slow down when just getting started with 8th scale. You know...cause the others are just so much faster. But this is because their race motors actually let the chassis do what it is supposed to do. Which is get traction. Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps.
07-04-2007, 11:57 PM
#4349
im running os lc3 hots. ive had better luck with them. i have always run them in my revo and never had a problem with them. my friend on the other hand has always used the mc-59's. i guess that it is more of a personal preferance.
07-05-2007, 07:28 AM
#4350
Tech Rookie
Getting back to factory settings
I am new to Nitro, and have the RTR car.
If I want to start over tuning from factory settings, what's the proper way to do this? For factory settings, both high and low speed are 2.5 turns 'out', but 'out' from what starting point? Do I turn them 'in' until I start to feel a change in the amount of restistance to turning, or until they stop moving altogether with low torque (i.e. not trying to tighten them like a structural screw, just twisting lightly with the fingers until it will no longer move with this amount of light pressure). I notice when turning in there is a point where it gets slightly harder to turn before its stops.
Also, after break-in, how much 'off' are the the 2.5/2.5 factory settings? Way off, or is it just minor tweaks? I've tried to have others help me on this front, but my engine seems to chug fuel the current settings (maybe I can run 7 minutes on a tank), and it still seems to get a little too hot. The settings aren't even close to factory, from the changes that have been made. I live in the New England area with pretty much normal elevation and temps in the sommer in the high 70's/low 80's, I know engine tuning is affected by the environment, but this will be what I am mostly running in for the near future.
Thanks in advance for any help.
If I want to start over tuning from factory settings, what's the proper way to do this? For factory settings, both high and low speed are 2.5 turns 'out', but 'out' from what starting point? Do I turn them 'in' until I start to feel a change in the amount of restistance to turning, or until they stop moving altogether with low torque (i.e. not trying to tighten them like a structural screw, just twisting lightly with the fingers until it will no longer move with this amount of light pressure). I notice when turning in there is a point where it gets slightly harder to turn before its stops.
Also, after break-in, how much 'off' are the the 2.5/2.5 factory settings? Way off, or is it just minor tweaks? I've tried to have others help me on this front, but my engine seems to chug fuel the current settings (maybe I can run 7 minutes on a tank), and it still seems to get a little too hot. The settings aren't even close to factory, from the changes that have been made. I live in the New England area with pretty much normal elevation and temps in the sommer in the high 70's/low 80's, I know engine tuning is affected by the environment, but this will be what I am mostly running in for the near future.
Thanks in advance for any help.