Originally Posted by lbenton

The SCTE 2.0 diff cup does not need the shims. I assume if you pulled the PDF for the manual on the 2.0 it would give you the exploded view you need.

As for what to put in the diffs, I would never build one with grease, you are better off tune it for your traction you are on and how you want to come out of the turns.

Originally Posted by dtr

You will also need
3x Losi Differential Seals w/Gasket & Hardware for the pins that attach the sun gear to the outdrive, 1x spur gear and one each of the front and rear ring and pinion set.

Originally Posted by blf

Hey Guys --- thanks for all the help so far on this truck! Expecting the 1.0 Roller (new) on Monday & ordered:

3 x HD Diff Cases
2 x Front/Rear HD Lightened Outdrives
1 x Center HD Lightened Outdrives
3 x Diff Gears/Hardware sets
2x HPI 2.5x12mm screws everyone recommends
Even front and rear gear boxes

With the above, and diff oil/grease of course, can I FULLY build each of these "HD" diffs off the truck THEN just swap them out fully assembled with the outdrives on and all???

Thanks - I may not be racing right away with it so I may just keep the grease in there and run it for a bit. But would like to change to oil/HD Cases & Outdrives for durability.

Also, am I hearing right that you don't need those tiny metal washers with these new HD cases? Just hoping there is good exploded view of the diff assembly!

Originally Posted by blf

I ordered 3 x Losi Differential Gear Set w/Hardware (Ten-T) (LOSB3569)...wont that have the pins & the ring/pinion for front/rear? Do you know the part # for the Spur gear? Is that just 1 item? Looks like its a different Spur for the Front/center and rear?

Originally Posted by lobuzz311

I just rebuilt my diffs with HD cases, new internals & 5/5/3 oil. They're STILL leaking. I rebuilt the rear one AGAIN, didn't even run the truck, and there are now oily spots on the bottom of the case, which I noticed when I took off my rear bumper. I followed Adam Drake's rebuild video, making sure there wasn't too much oil in the housing...
I even picked up the HPI screws, which unlike the crap Losi screws, you can actually cinch all the way down.

What am I doing wrong?

Originally Posted by lobuzz311

I just rebuilt my diffs with HD cases, new internals & 5/5/3 oil. They're STILL leaking. I rebuilt the rear one AGAIN, didn't even run the truck, and there are now oily spots on the bottom of the case, which I noticed when I took off my rear bumper. I followed Adam Drake's rebuild video, making sure there wasn't too much oil in the housing...
I even picked up the HPI screws, which unlike the crap Losi screws, you can actually cinch all the way down.

What am I doing wrong?

Originally Posted by blf

Threadjack but relevant

Originally Posted by Casper

Don't take out the large washer behind the sun gears on the Ten diff like they do on the 8ight diff. If you are running std diff cases (not the updated HD ones) you need to bond the metal insert into both sides of the diff case.

Or just get the HD diff cases.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR332001

Originally Posted by lobuzz311

Sorry. I figured it fit, since it's the SCTE thread...
I have the HD diff cases, all around. Kept the washer in, no shims used. Still leaking.

Originally Posted by Casper

That is odd. The HD diffs have been GREAT with all of my experience and have not leaked since I started using those. Where are they leaking from can you tell? The gasket or the outdrives?

Originally Posted by lobuzz311

I would think that it has to be the gasket, because it's clean around the outdrives. The bottom of the case looks like this:

Originally Posted by Casper

With the HD cases they solved the outdrive leaking and they aslo added a thicker gasket to make sure it seals better. This is odd. I have not had any leaking diffs at all since we went to the HD ones. Make sure your screws are tight and you are not over filling your diffs like you already said you were doing. Something weird going on here. Is this only the rear diff?