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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-06-2013, 11:37 AM
  #45526  
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Originally Posted by eddomak
Heh heh, only putting it out there as food for thought/evaluation.

I wonder which one is best and/or equitable with one another? Of course I don't even race, so who even can account for driver skill and/or style/preference?

A) SCTE 1.0 stock
B) SCTE 1.0 with TLR goodies & chassis of your choice (TLR or aftermarket)
C) SCTE 1.0 with MIP
D) SCTE 1.0 with BCE Hybrid chassis (ie 2.0 layout)
E) SCTE 2.0
F) SCTE 2.0 with BCE 2.0 chassis

I actually found the TLR SCTE 2.0 chassis available locally for $AUD80 (which is cheaper than buying in the states?). but haven't gone and done the conversion.







Yea i dont get why the 2.0 chassis is that much ethier. Um i can only speak for the stock chassis and the 1.0 Flex chassis since thats all i ran.

The stock chassis handling wise feels more like a heavy 1/8 scale Buggy or SC . Its good on rougher outdoor tracks jumps ok it really liked to nosedive a lot . The downside was all the weight on it its pretty hard on the 2s lipos and electronics.

The Flex chassis with the Rear Torque rod and Stock Front brace is much better than stock ! Much lighter handles like a lighten SC or 1/8 scale Buggy jumps better you get much better grip with the flex it just handles better . Much easier on the electronics also !

Downside is it likes to nosedive still but not nearly as much.


MIP kit ive only driven one on a indoor carpet offroad track i liked it handled like a 1/10 scale touring car kind of jumped great and handled like a 2.0 SCTE kind of.

Outdoors since its really light i thought would hurt it but i race with a guy who has the MIP kit on his SCTE. And on the Rough surface it actually seems to drive and handle it fine.
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:49 PM
  #45527  
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Originally Posted by kazuaki
I raced with my BCE H1 chassis for the first time this weekend, using the latest Dunford setup for the 2.0. It seemed to work pretty well for me. I'm using the V1 servo mount and receiver box still. I guess I don't really see an advantage to switching that and I like that everything is contained in the box. I'm running the 2.0 torque rods front and rear. It is nice that the chassis is setup to work with the 1.0 chassis braces as well. I may try those in the future.

Chucko, am I seeing correctly that your servo mount and receiver box holes are countersunk on the top of the chassis? I have all the same mounting holes as you, but mine are flat on top.
Changes are being made on a daily basis . new ideas... I changed a few things after running it.. I had the original box radio compartment in it and am going to the 2.0 mount to test and see how much better it can handle the flying that I do on my large track out doors at CCRC. I will post back with results next week this is my old one I polished lol it blinds you when its out side in the sun
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Old 08-07-2013, 02:41 AM
  #45528  
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l bought my daughter for her birthday a Losi ten-scte roller , l've fitted it up with Spectrum gear for radio/transmitter , a savox hi torque , metal geared digital servo and 1/8 Xerun combo , 120amp sc ESC (the blue one) and the 1800 kva 4 pole motor , geared it with a 14T pinion (like you would for 1/8 scale) she runs at the local track in the kids class (a 1/10 scale track) but we went to the 1/8 scale track last week for the first time so l fitted it with a 4s lipo and this thing hauls arse but on the her race nights (at the 1/10 scale track) we have to run 2s max , the truck still gets along alright , heaps of grunt for jumps and out of corners untill the straight where people start to catch or come around her , can l gear it up and how much bigger pinion can you go before it wont fit or just bite the bullit and buy a 1/10 scale 4 pole motor and deal with the heat , its allways hot here in N/Queensland and thats why l did what l did to get away from the heat issue , Note the most temp we have ever recorded is 42c on motor and ESC , l would really like to leave it 1/8 scale setup if possible for this reason , just need more speed or am l kidding myself.

Last edited by N/Q HPIer; 08-07-2013 at 02:56 AM.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:24 AM
  #45529  
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Originally Posted by N/Q HPIer
l bought my daughter for her birthday a Losi ten-scte roller , l've fitted it up with...

and the 1800 kva 4 pole motor ...

... can l gear it up and how much bigger pinion can you go before it wont fit or just bite the bullit and buy a 1/10 scale 4 pole motor and deal with the heat , its allways hot here in N/Queensland and thats why l did what l did to get away from the heat issue , Note the most temp we have ever recorded is 42c on motor and ESC , l would really like to leave it 1/8 scale setup if possible for this reason , just need more speed or am l kidding myself.
I think the biggest pinion that fits is a 20T, or maybe just a 21T. I found that with the big batteries it is the handling that suffers. Can you go the mid-ground to a 3S setup with a 2000-2700 KV setup?
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Old 08-07-2013, 12:07 PM
  #45530  
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Originally Posted by chucko
Changes are being made on a daily basis . new ideas... I changed a few things after running it.. I had the original box radio compartment in it and am going to the 2.0 mount to test and see how much better it can handle the flying that I do on my large track out doors at CCRC. I will post back with results next week this is my old one I polished lol it blinds you when its out side in the sun
looking forward to the production run of the H1 chassis. Was thinking of pre-ordering from the site. Any estimate when R&D will be done and product will be available in its final config? No rush. I am sure it is worth waiting for. Just want to get an idea if on timing if you have one. Site says late July I believe.
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Old 08-07-2013, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by reckboy
looking forward to the production run of the H1 chassis. Was thinking of pre-ordering from the site. Any estimate when R&D will be done and product will be available in its final config? No rush. I am sure it is worth waiting for. Just want to get an idea if on timing if you have one. Site says late July I believe.
I'm thinking in the next week or two. Just making the last few tweeks with some of the 2.0 mounting locations for extra adjustability.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mxgregg
I'm thinking in the next week or two. Just making the last few tweeks with some of the 2.0 mounting locations for extra adjustability.
Out of curiosity, from the BCE perspective, do you think that an SCTE 1.0 with the H1 chassis performs as well as a SCTE 2.0 with the BCE v2 chassis?
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:39 PM
  #45533  
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Well from driving the 2.0 and the MIP conversion kit they both handle better for sure than the typical 1.0 layout ! Never driven ethier one on dirt though just a indoor Carpet offroad track.

So any chassis with the center diff toward the Rear is better for sure.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by eddomak
Out of curiosity, from the BCE perspective, do you think that an SCTE 1.0 with the H1 chassis performs as well as a SCTE 2.0 with the BCE v2 chassis?
I don't see why not. I have the BCE H1 chassis and compared it to an SCTE 2.0 at the race this weekend. The layout of the major components (battery, motor, esc, diff) is the same. The chassis even allows the use of the 2.0 servo mount if you want. I am still using the original servo mount/radio box, but I seriously doubt that makes a noticeable difference. The only way I can see the BCE H1 and a 2.0 driving differently would be due to the differences in the actual chassis flex. I'm sure the way the pocketing is done and possible differences in the quality of the aluminum may lead to differences in flex characteristics. One thing I do like about the BCE H1, is the options it gives you. You can use either the old or new servo mount. You can use the new 2.0 torque rods, or the old-style chassis braces for more flex.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:53 PM
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I agree on the more of the difference of changing to one or the other ..Its nice to be able to tune for a track rather then starting a set up from known racer thats just a starting point. if the short brace works in the past That's your driving style and its ok if you want the box servo its going to work What BCE gives is a lot of options for tuning rather then bone stock here take it try and see if you can make it work. the guys at losi test for months then give you a basic starting point and at that has not to many options to tune.. the BCE gives you all the options. JMO and it works great
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:08 PM
  #45536  
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Do any of you guys make better lap times with a 5,7,3 diff setup than 5,5,3 on dry dirt/loose ?

Ive tried both and for some reason i get better lap times for sure with 7k in the center than 5k in the center diff . I like the fact that 5k is easier to drive on dry dirt but with 7k. I just like the forward traction it gives you and more torque out of corners so i guess its just a drivers thing.

5K in the center diff feels like it doesnt give you much Forward traction. I noticed looking at my lap times i could get away from my fastest lap time at 36s at diffrent tracks . I seemed to have faster lap times with 5,7,3 .

I might try diffrent Front tires out and leave the 5k in to see first before i use 7 again . Maybe with the lighter oil in the center diff you need to go up on the Front diff like 7 ?
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Do any of you guys make better lap times with a 5,7,3 diff setup than 5,5,3 on dry dirt/loose ?

Ive tried both and for some reason i get better lap times for sure with 7k in the center than 5k in the center diff . I like the fact that 5k is easier to drive on dry dirt but with 7k. I just like the forward traction it gives you and more torque out of corners so i guess its just a drivers thing.

5K in the center diff feels like it doesnt give you much Forward traction. I noticed looking at my lap times i could get away from my fastest lap time at 36s at diffrent tracks . I seemed to have faster lap times with 5,7,3 .

I might try diffrent Front tires out and leave the 5k in to see first before i use 7 again . Maybe with the lighter oil in the center diff you need to go up on the Front diff like 7 ?
The only thing I see different is temps. thicker oil is harder to turn. try both take temps see what happens. then do what makes you happy if thicker oil gives you faster lap times then stick with it. but dont burn out your equipment.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chucko
The only thing I see different is temps. thicker oil is harder to turn. try both take temps see what happens. then do what makes you happy if thicker oil gives you faster lap times then stick with it. but dont burn out your equipment.

Yea true on thicker oil will be harder to turn with the diff. What do you mean about the temps the diff cases ? Yea the 5,5,3 the 5k in the center feels like you need to get off the power to get the truck to rotate inless you hit the brake before the turn. Its kind of like a point and shoot driving.

So yea im going back to 5,7,3 .

What about the Gold coated shock shafts do they last long im hearing not so good reviews on them ?

Oh yea i bought a pair of Losi Ultra Digit SC (Green) tires to try out they look good.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Yea true on thicker oil will be harder to turn with the diff. What do you mean about the temps the diff cases ? Yea the 5,5,3 the 5k in the center feels like you need to get off the power to get the truck to rotate inless you hit the brake before the turn. Its kind of like a point and shoot driving.

So yea im going back to 5,7,3 .
I moved from 5-5-3 to 5-7-3 on a medium sized medium grip track with a lot of hairpins onto straights because it would always understeer (go wide) on power (when exiting). I know there are other solutions (eg springs /oil) as well, but at the time I didn't have any other parts to try and changing diff oil was easy and made sense to me. Moving to 7K fixed all of that for me and gave me the option to back down a little on the throttle, or increase power to shift the back out

There have been recent changes to course layout so that there are far fewer hairpins, but to be honest I haven't tried going back to 5-5-3 to see if there are any improvements (especially as I have changed springs /oil and a lot more since then). Hmm.. maybe something to try on the next diff oil service.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by eddomak
I moved from 5-5-3 to 5-7-3 on a medium sized medium grip track with a lot of hairpins onto straights because it would always understeer (go wide) on power (when exiting). I know there are other solutions (eg springs /oil) as well, but at the time I didn't have any other parts to try and changing diff oil was easy and made sense to me. Moving to 7K fixed all of that for me and gave me the option to back down a little on the throttle, or increase power to shift the back out

There have been recent changes to course layout so that there are far fewer hairpins, but to be honest I haven't tried going back to 5-5-3 to see if there are any improvements (especially as I have changed springs /oil and a lot more since then). Hmm.. maybe something to try on the next diff oil service.





Yup my did the samething with 5k in the center if you tried to get on the power to much it would push out so you have to get off the power to straighten it out of turn to get it to turn. I actually ran 5,7,3 on Dry dirt/rough/loose is it a little harder to drive yea but if you smoother on the throttle its not bad at all.

But yea with shock oil like 30w/3 hole or so with the Blue Springs it might help . I had the Blue Front Springs with 32w which thicker shock oil will cause understeer.

I like to have the on power steering coming out of the turns .

The tracks i race on during summer are usually loose and dry sometimes rutty and at times pretty hot outside but its been cool outside . Two of the tracks ive raced on are pretty big and the other is a Meduim/big with tight turns.
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