liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

OK, I give in. I really need help with a basic setup. I'm running a damper with the white spring and 2 hole piston that's included and 30 wt oil. I don't have direct access to Tamiya parts, but can order what's needed. I run carpet, the kit tires and we are allowed to use "Jack the Gripper" traction compound. I've never tuned with a pan car type setup although I have a once run Trinity Street Spec stock car.

I have the damper set so the car is just slightly arched in the middle with a battery (maybe a mm). I can just barely turn the spur gear with the rear tires locked. I'm running the supplied 63/17 spur pinion. I'm running the front kit springs. I have Cross 30 and 35 shore rear tires waiting. I have no idea what shore the Tamiya tires are in comparison. Any help with dialing in the ESC would be great also. I'm running an LRP Quatum pro ESC and need to adjust it accordingly.

What is the "tweaking" screw for the ball swivel? I've seen it mentioned a couple times, but no one ever explains it.

If someone has the time and patience, this kit could really use a FAQ!

Thanks in advance,

John

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

Hey bob, it sounds like you had one hell of a night. I'm happy to hear your having fun with it. I'd seriously tape the battery in and loose those cups. Not only do they pop off occasionally but they also drag on the edge of the curbing. This can really upset the car when you're cornering. What I do is slide the batter in, then I slide in a coffee stir stick between the top of the battery and the upper deck. This keeps the battery nice and snug and lowers the CG of the battery by about 3-4mm (depending of the stir stick. Then wrap the ends with tape. I've never had a batter get ejected when mounted like this.

As for your question about the tweak screws, if you're using the ball pivot mounts you should see two holes located near the pivot ball. There's one on each side of it. I used a 2.5mm socket head screw and tapped each of the holes. I run the screw down until it's just making contact with the T-plate. Then I measured the rear of the car from the outside of each rear wheel. Now divide that in half and you'll be able to find the center of the rear of the car. I marked this on the back of the T-plate so I can see it from the back. Load your car up as if you're getting ready to race it, get everything prepped. Then carefully lift the car at the center mark with the tip of an exacto knife. One tire will lift up more than the other. Adjust your screws up and down, meaning down of the left and up on the right (equal amounts and small adjustments) until both tires are lifting at the same time. Once you have that drive the car, it made need a little more adjusting (tweaking) to get it dialed in for your track. But that should give you a starting point. I'm sure there's different schools of thought on this, as a matter of fact I know some people that tweak the car from the front. You kinda have to play with it and ask the guys at your local track what they're playing with.

I use to do this when I raced RC10L's. I tried it on the F103 and didn't like the feel of it. I personally prefer the O-ring setup. It's way easier and to me, more consistent in the corners, but everyone's different.

Hope this helps.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Sounds good! Please do.

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

Another old school pan car trick is to use pennys on the front tires. By this I mean you find the center of the chassis in the front, mark the location, and then stick a penny on top of each front tire, then lift the chassis up on the center mark and see which penny rolls off first. The side that rolls first is the low side, so you screw the tweek screw in a little bit to raise that side, and keep trying again. Eventually both pennies will roll off together meaning a near perfect tweek. Its the poor mans way of getting it done

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

http://www.ShareCow.com/Download.asp...e-5b9f4f3d7fa4

These are the F1 manuals I have in PDF format.

james

quick5pnt0

iTrader: (8)

Excellent! I was looking for the RM manual.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

Here are some pics of YES - MY F1 - 103.

I did buy this used from another poster.

I have installed my stuff.. got it setup and as I posted before was out on Wednesday racing her.

YES it is a Ferrari 412 - but I took all the Ferrari stickers off.. and we gave it HONDA power1 I hate Ferrari's

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

Hey Bob, nice lookin ride. I really like those red parts. Where did you get them, if you don't mind me asking. I've got a Ferarri in the line up of things to do and I'd love to use those.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

My TRG rubber tires came in today just in time for tomorrow's race (outdoor asphalt). They feel super-grippy -- way softer than touring car rubber tires. Can't wait to see how they work and how they wear. I'll post my impressions afterward.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

Well this F103 used to be BP Shadow's.. so you would have to ask him.

But a fellow at the track who has been a Tamiya guy forever said they are Tamiya parts.. That Tamiya did a red years ago.. not just blue.

I had several guys at the track ask me for those parts.. some wanted to pay me some money and blue parts in return.. I thought about that..

Hey Vyger.. my next project as you can see from my Avatar is a green body - I wanted to do Jordan 191.. now I will race it.. so I am not fussed if I have the exact Tamiya 191 body set because it will get abused.. but I would like to find the wing set. Thats the other reason I like this 412 Ferrari is the front wing. So if you come across anything 191 jordan esk.. let me know will ya?

James

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

Actually, Tamiya never did red for the F1 parts, just the Surikarn cars. I had them done back in the day because that was my thing, I had the same color on my snowmobile. But yes, they are genuine Tamiya parts. I have another set I would be willing to part with if the price was right. PM me if you are interested

Moole

hello

i want to buy a f103rm and put my mamba max 5700 in it..

would it work well?


will it be controllable? when i accelerate?

and what about the controll on the track?

DaTaz

I've just spent my week end driving a F103 GT with foam tires, 3000 KV Orion first, then LRP 4700 KV. Without Paragon, such a motor is a stupid idea, on asphalt. I wouldn't go with a 5700, except if you want to set a throttle EPA at around 50% with a -50% expo

Moole

thanks for your answer..

what is a Paragon ?

and what is epa and expo? -50 %
sry im new..

should i turn the throttle -50% down?

and what will happen if i wont turn it down?

moole

DaTaz

Paragon is a foam tire treatment, to try to get something that could be called "grip"
EPA : end point adjustment. Setting throttle EPA at 50% means that when you pull the trigger, you have only 50% power.
Expo is the type of power curve. You will have a very low response first, to avoid having your car spinning.
I think that on such a car, a 4500 KV motor is the limit. If you go with more powerful motor, either you're a perfect driver, or your car will draw donuts