Xray XB4 thread
#5886
I noticed 12mm hex options now. Anybody know the offsets in order to use the kyosho/ associated wheels front and rear. By this I mean the xray offset hexes to use those rims and maintain kit widths
#5887
Tech Apprentice
Hey guys Im about to pre order my xb4 however this is my first xb4 and I was just wondering what you guys would recommend to have in my box for some spare parts ?
anything you guys would recommend would be greatly appreciated .
thanks in advance
anything you guys would recommend would be greatly appreciated .
thanks in advance
#5889
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
[QUOTE=Nyegaard;13663045]While i do feel you (which is why I have my hobby room full of cars that should be sold..), you really do need to look at the net cost, if you're $200 out either way, one way yields a brand new car whilst the other yields an older and used car with certain upgrades.
I have enough spares for my car for a complete rebuild to practically brand new. Would not let it go for less then $350.00 for all that, throw in unused machines pistons, sway bar sets, unrun tires. Having had the D413 with center diff and hating the way it drove, I am not missing out. Metal gears would be only upgrade and I don't need them to tell you the truth. Never had an issue with either XB4 '14 I had diff wise. I would however be intrigued in trying the ball diff in the rear of the car.
I have enough spares for my car for a complete rebuild to practically brand new. Would not let it go for less then $350.00 for all that, throw in unused machines pistons, sway bar sets, unrun tires. Having had the D413 with center diff and hating the way it drove, I am not missing out. Metal gears would be only upgrade and I don't need them to tell you the truth. Never had an issue with either XB4 '14 I had diff wise. I would however be intrigued in trying the ball diff in the rear of the car.
#5890
Tech Initiate
I have enough spares for my car for a complete rebuild to practically brand new. Would not let it go for less then $350.00 for all that, throw in unused machines pistons, sway bar sets, unrun tires. Having had the D413 with center diff and hating the way it drove, I am not missing out. Metal gears would be only upgrade and I don't need them to tell you the truth. Never had an issue with either XB4 '14 I had diff wise. I would however be intrigued in trying the ball diff in the rear of the car.
All the misc stuff you keep from the old car, arms and front hubs are the same, misc parts are exchangeable.
The pistons and swaybars are also the same so you'd keep those and any springs you might've had.
I also have a complete '14 in parts pluss the old '14 I've been using. Going to assemble the parts car and sell it as a roller and the old '14 as either rtr or roller as well.
But yea, I do feel the pain .
#5891
Tech Initiate
I'm just bringing some arms with me to the track tonight for the '15, the new parts haven't really arrived yet. Bulkheads used to be a possible weak spot, but the '15 has new, reinforced ones so now? Who knows.
It's a solid car though .
#5892
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Personally, I'm keeping my old car (an original '13 with some updates) as a complete backup car. When I break anything specific to the new car, I'll order 2 or more of that part and race my old car in the meantime.
I realize this doesn't help answer your question. Sorry.
Things I would definitely have spares of to begin with:
At least one of each arm, front and rear.
Spur gears
Bearings, lots of bearings.
Caster blocks
Rear hub carrier (new ones look much stronger, but I broke several of these on the old car, so I would keep an extra around anyway)
#5893
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Make sure to get the '15 Bulkheads and not the old '14 ones. They're different.
I'm just bringing some arms with me to the track tonight for the '15, the new parts haven't really arrived yet. Bulkheads used to be a possible weak spot, but the '15 has new, reinforced ones so now? Who knows.
It's a solid car though .
I'm just bringing some arms with me to the track tonight for the '15, the new parts haven't really arrived yet. Bulkheads used to be a possible weak spot, but the '15 has new, reinforced ones so now? Who knows.
It's a solid car though .
#5894
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
I took a second look at Renaud Savoya's early prototype running the center diff in his '14 spec.
I'm just spit ballin' here, but from just looking at the picture, the new center gear diff is shorter overall than the '14 spec slipper. A quick look at the '15 manual and you know that the new buggy uses a 116mm center (front) and a 64mm center (rear) CVD. (On the '15, the entire motor mount is moved back by maybe 10mm). With a little work, one could make their '14 top deck work with a little cutting, but you'd still need the new '15 c/f center motor top plate and that little c/f spacer for the center/rear diff housing or maybe some 2mm aluminum spacers (not running a full lenngth top deck). Anyhow, you'd likely need the new composite center/rear diff motor mount as well from the '15 and to drill two new holes for it further back in the chassis were the saddle packs fit - and drill it straight On top of this a little '14 chassis modification is needed in the center section, and you'd need to cut up your '14 center/rear motor mount to use the posts to hold the front battery hold downs. It may be more work than it's worth in the end. Add in the metal gears and you might be creeping into the $200 range. That's almost half way to a new kit. This is only to make it work in saddle pack configuration. Hmm.
I'm just spit ballin' here, but from just looking at the picture, the new center gear diff is shorter overall than the '14 spec slipper. A quick look at the '15 manual and you know that the new buggy uses a 116mm center (front) and a 64mm center (rear) CVD. (On the '15, the entire motor mount is moved back by maybe 10mm). With a little work, one could make their '14 top deck work with a little cutting, but you'd still need the new '15 c/f center motor top plate and that little c/f spacer for the center/rear diff housing or maybe some 2mm aluminum spacers (not running a full lenngth top deck). Anyhow, you'd likely need the new composite center/rear diff motor mount as well from the '15 and to drill two new holes for it further back in the chassis were the saddle packs fit - and drill it straight On top of this a little '14 chassis modification is needed in the center section, and you'd need to cut up your '14 center/rear motor mount to use the posts to hold the front battery hold downs. It may be more work than it's worth in the end. Add in the metal gears and you might be creeping into the $200 range. That's almost half way to a new kit. This is only to make it work in saddle pack configuration. Hmm.