Xray NT1
#2941
Tech Regular
#2942
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Got a quick question for you guys, I recently got my NT1 a few weeks ago and built it up, the car is unbelieveable. But the problem I came upon was that when setting the clutch, endplay I think it was, the one with a reccomended gap of .6-.7 mm of play, I could only get .45mm of play. Now I am using the O.S. 12TZ 3port. Has anyone else running this engine had this problem, what do I have to do to fix it?
#2943
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Got a quick question for you guys, I recently got my NT1 a few weeks ago and built it up, the car is unbelieveable. But the problem I came upon was that when setting the clutch, endplay I think it was, the one with a reccomended gap of .6-.7 mm of play, I could only get .45mm of play. Now I am using the O.S. 12TZ 3port. Has anyone else running this engine had this problem, what do I have to do to fix it?
Hi MRLRCR,
Yes, it sure is a great car.
You need make sure you don't mixup "end play" and "clutch gap". These are 2 different settings on the clutch.
First you start off by setting your clutch gap, which as mentioned is .6-.7. Remove the large bearing behind the clutch bell and then assemble the clutch. The bell should have alot of play. This is what you measure and then shim at the front of the bell where the bolt is, to adjust your clutch gap. If you are not reaching .6-.7, then the collet behind the flywheel is too high. Xray has one that fits perfect.
Once this gap is set, you then put back the large bearing and set your end play. These shims go behind that same large bearing. You want to get this anywhere between .08-.15
Hope this helps.
#2944
A general rule of thumb...when adjusting the shims under the collet/collar, you should try to get the air gap to at least .6mm with no shims in between the clutch bell bushing and end screw.
#2945
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Alright, yea because when I assembled everything I did put a shim behind the collet/collar, so hopefully when I take it out the problem will be solved. Either way Im gonna have to take it apart to put the yellow shoe in. Anyone have a good starting setup for 301, I know you might teamGP. Its built to all the specs in the instruction manual except I have the solid in the front and 60k in the rear.
MRLRCR
MRLRCR
#2947
Alright, yea because when I assembled everything I did put a shim behind the collet/collar, so hopefully when I take it out the problem will be solved. Either way Im gonna have to take it apart to put the yellow shoe in. Anyone have a good starting setup for 301, I know you might teamGP. Its built to all the specs in the instruction manual except I have the solid in the front and 60k in the rear.
MRLRCR
MRLRCR
#2948
Tech Adept
Burch's setup from last year works great for myself and a few others. (Bobby posted it)
The rear bar Ralph ran was a 2.1 not 2.4
#2950
#2951
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ไกล, 遠, jauh, 먼, ver, 遠い, lontano, بعيدا, xa
Posts: 1,224
Trader Rating: 9 (91%+)
#2953
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...486&pageNum=15
Last edited by Z-Mann; 04-08-2008 at 07:16 AM.
#2954
Wow, is that a direct fit ? I mean the top parts ( G4) ?
#2955
yep no modification bolts straight on