RCFREAK

iTrader: (20)

run 1/2 degree block in right rear and 0 degree left rear.. just kiddin now i gotta check mine..

NickM

iTrader: (11)

I run 81t, 48 pitch spurs on both by WCE cyclones with no problems. Ample clearance, and it's flush with the bottom of the chassis. Mangoman does too. We run the thin white spurs, RW brand maybe?

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

OK boys....I'm looking for a hot setup for rubber tire on carpet. This is new for me, I've never run rubber on a Cyclone (don't laugh). I might run a little asphalt this summer too although it'll be a shame to scratch up a chassis. Any help with setup would be appreciated!

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

just put a chassis protector on it, thats what Im gonna do. You can get them anywhere, hot bodies even has their own.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

This is sooooooooo weird... I tried an 81 spur no later than saturday (raceday) and it did stick below the chassis like crazy on my Hara Ed... I'm wondering whether the WCE wouldn't already have modified motor mounts...

tonite is practice time - will check again.

thanks all for the help!
Paul

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

A fantastic spool mod setup with grippy tires is Andy Moore's DHI winning setup, it worked beautifully on raceday saturday - remove the rollbars if grip isn't that fantastic as they do tend to make the car slide around a bit (still in a balanced manner though). I can't attach it as the pdf is too big but look it up on the web and it should be easy to find.

"base" setup for one-way grippy rubbers on carpet is the super-famous "1.5" setup - rolle centers raised 1.5mm via shims under all pivot blocks and ball joint holders on chassis side, 4mm ackerman, LWB all over, 40 to 50 oil all around with 3-holes 1.1mm pistons, pink springs front blue springs rear, 6mm droop front 5mm droop rear, that's with a mazda 6.

Laters
PAul

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Yeah a lot of places have 81T listed as the largest spur you should run. People have run a slightly larger spur so that it pokes out slightly under the chassis (ive tried an 82 and that works fine).

I think they are RW Racing supalite spurs. However as they are thin and only screw in with only two holes so i find they tend to warp easily. You should probably use the CF spur gear plate to attach them but im a lazy old fart.

Ive got a xenon spur gear in at the moment which are meant to be the good stuff (i believe all the Team HB drivers use them, but 64 pitch of course). The spur is incredibily durable however my car is really noisy and im pretty sure its because the spur doesnt like the pinions which i use.

jorgesimes

I have measured in a hudy setup station all the time. I'm really very disapointed and don't know what to do now. One race passed now and nothing to do, but at least i wish to save the rest of the championship. Does anyone know someone at HPI/HOTBODIES Europe?

komkit

iTrader: (6)

Not sure if this had been suggested.

Since the Cyclone upright and the suspension arm can be used on the left and right. Have you tried to switch side and see if the problem follow?

Try one thing at the time. Hinge pin, Arm and the upright. Make sure the hinge pin isn’t bent, suspension arm stay flat on the flat surface. Also pivot block should stay flat on the flat surface as well.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Mmmh. that rear asymetry thing reminds me of the good ole' TC3 days where Cliff himself was swearing to anyone who could hear him that the rear end had perfect 3deg toe in on each wheel and that one should be careful when tightening the rear blocks... Sorry, can't help you on that one jorge, good luck

Regarding that spur issue of mine... thank you guys for convincing me to revisit my setup. the 81T spur fits fine with a 21 pinion, which gives a 9.4 ratio perfectly acceptable for BL 4.5. For some reason and in the stress of a race last saturday, I didn't get it to fit but it does today... the bearings were probably aschew or something. And by the way it's not the bearing "rib" that prevents the motor from backing to the max of the holding screw oval holes, but the cage itself that hits the bulkhead on the side... My fault all along!

Thanks again fellas

Regards,
Paul from Switzerland

Itchy

iTrader: (1)

I was at the same race with jorge, and i've tried everything i could remember: i switched hubs and arms and tried diferent arms and hubs. I did manage to improve my rear toe-in from 3º/1.5º to 3º/2º, but the problem remains.

We both had problems when turning left, and we both had the least toe-in on the right wheel, so it cant be a coincidence.

BTW i measured the toe-in right after assembly so im sure is not a damaged part or anything like that.

komkit

iTrader: (6)

Ummmm...

When you moved the suspension components from the left to right and right to left, did the measurement changed to 1.5º/3º to 2º/3º instead of 3º/1.5º to 3º/2º?

jorgesimes

No, it remains the same. Left 3º - Right 1º

We even try changing parts from itchy car into mine and the problem remains.

When i changed the rear to 2,5º blocks it gives. Left 2,5º - Right 1º.

Itchy

iTrader: (1)

Im not sure i understand your question, but what i did was: swaped hubs and checked toe; swaped arms, then checked toe. Than i tried different hubs and arms and checked toe after the assemby. When a particular piece improved the toe diference i would let it stay.

If i remember correctly, it improved when i swaped the hubs. The swaped arms didn't make a diference. New arm made litle diference too. It was borrowed, so i let the original stay.

SammyZ

iTrader: (138)

thats funny, i just checked mine again with 3 degree rear block, the left side measured 3 and the right side measured 1.5. I will check the holes in the chassis to see if they are aligned properly, i am assuming there not.