DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Surely you know i was serious.




- DaveW

runnin rc10

iTrader: (1)

As soon as you change the plastic outdrives to alu. you will not have it happen anymore. No clue why this is, but it worked for everyone at my track, only did the rear too....

BatJam1

I know i'm opening a can of worms here but i perfer the steel diffs stock and modified .I personally feel and, I may be wrong but I think the steel diffs even though they have more rotating mass, they provide more Enertia coming into the turn so it keeps corner speeds up,as with the plastic diffs and especially with a stock motor (more braking) I think it looses its enertia and corner speed suffers . My opion!

Fatboy Joe

Does too much steering slop affect the car's handling and stability?

bjspinner

iTrader: (22)

I totally agree with what you say I have used the IRS ali diff which I feel is smoother but as for feeling the corner speed steel diff all the way.It keeps the momentum higher through the corner, stock and 19t motors tend to slow down quicker than low turn mods so you lose corner speed.

As for bodies flexing in hits and getting caught many years ago I saw a world class racer from Japan with a 1/8th scale nitro body they had put shoe goo into the corners of the body to increase strength. since then I have done this on all scales of bodies along the front splitter also and dont have problems ever, and I get great life out of my bodies.

tomlau

hi

i have been using the Square RC delrin outdrive on my tc4 for a couple of months now for racing stock. i am just about to start racing mod (with 12T motor limit) will they hold up ok of that? ive used delrin outdrives in other cars for mod so i would have though these would be ok too. anyone got any experience on these?

thanks tom

Mimmo

Hi guys! A question: better diff in plastic or those in steel? Thanks from Italy!

warpig

iTrader: (7)

Delrin is super resistant to wear. I would make sure there are no jagged edges on the dogbone end of the CV shaft though. Steel will wear out before delrin will.

Number 11

Actually I thought you where joking. But that is even funnier now.

BatJam1

thanks for the back up! And i too have been using the shoo goo and wall re-enforcing tape to ensure long life to the front of my bodies for many years now ! Just have to watch the weight build up!put it up around the front wheel wells and the front bumper,after paint dried!!!!!!

BatJam1

I perfer steel mimmo.They just keep momentum up in the corners with stock and 19 turn motors !

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Any one else having problems with the VCS bobbin not snapping down into place inside the shock? I've had two shocks begin leaking recently because the VCS bobbin doesn't stay in place snapped down into its groove. I have even tried buying the flat square shock part used in the older AE shocks that snaps down into the groove above the o-rings. I can not get them to snap down into the shock body. I am using the yokomo caps so I dont need the bobbin. I can't get the original bobbin or any of the lock washers I bought to fix this problem to seat and compress the o-rings like they should. Am I missing something? It almost makes me think the problem is the shock body groove not being small enough to hold the lock washer. I cant imagine the aluminum would wear at all.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

The TC3/4 shock bodies (blue) have no groove for the bobbin to snap into. The offroad bodies (gray) have a groove for the flat "square" piece to snap into. Its a different setup. The TC3/4 bodies hold the bobbin in place with friction, and thats it. The 8 points on the bobbin force against the walls of the shock body to keep it in place. There is a definite "snap" heard when you install the offroad shock parts, but the TC3/4 parts just press into place. It is possible for the adonization to wear enough on the inside of the shock to make it hard to hold the bobbin in place... not through wear of the piston... seeing as it doesnt go down that far, but through consistent and often rebuilds. (i have an old TC3 set that are no longer blue on the inside... but mostly silver!) This however would be harder to happen (age) than say just forcing the bobbin in place and deforming the 8 points of the bobbin and making it harder for it to stay into place. If the bobbin "snaps" at the top of the shock as you insert it, then it is deforming the tips of the bobbin. Try inserting it at angles till it is in place with no "snap" at the top of the shock. Are you using the old skool AE shock tool to build your shocks? I dont know why AE doesnt include that simple tool anymore... it works great.

- DaveW

Mimmo

Thanks BatJam!
What do you think about a foam set-up tyres on carpet track ,whit 8 / 9 turns motors?

Bye!

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I am not using the AE tool. I figure the bobbins just wore at the 8 tips becasue the shock body is SOLID blue all the way down. THe bobbin just slides down into place and has no resistance going into place or coming out. I guess I will have to try new bobbins. Thanks dave.
Andrew