tc4kid191

what tires are you running?

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

I run 28mm tires and I just bolt them right up. 28mm is where you want to be!

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I just shim my steering rack for the least amount of play and then run it. You need a little slop but just whatever shims you have and shim as tight at you can get it and still if free moving with no binding. I did that and have no problems with the tracking of my car.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

I would just maybe takeoff 1mm or so. Depends but most of the time on my TC3/4 cars I run full size and just some sandpaper and run on the inside of the tire when on the tire machine and tat takes off any material that might just hang over the lip of the rim. That normally takes care of any rubbing.

Mulligan Stu

Hello all

I am clear on all the setup adjustments on the tc4 except for the 3 places where adding washers to the ball studs are involved. Most of the setups off of AE's website have washer(s) in the following places but I don't understand what affect they will have on handling.

1. The front and rear chassis braces (camber link)
2. The steering blocks
3. The steering rack

If anyone can help me with these setup adjustments, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

1. front and rear braces / camber link. Washers change roll center which adds or subtracts traction to that corner.
2. steering blocks is for bump steer
3. steering rack is for ackerman.

Hope that helps

Bob

Mulligan Stu

1. Roll center - Pretty straight forward once I thought about it. LOL
2. Bump steer - Does adding washers give you more bump steer or less?
3. Ackerman - Does adding washers give you more ackerman or less?

Thanks again.

rainman318

I am using jaco 28mm under full steering they drag on the front shock ball cups and spring retainers. I can take care of this with EPA but the track i run has some real tight turns so i like all my steering travel

BlackKat

I believe more bump steer gives more mid-exit steering because the wheels turn in more while the suspension is being compressed

tc4

iTrader: (5)

hey i have a few questions about the tc4:

1. do they 3racing ssg chassis chassis braces fit onto the normal carbon tub chassis?

2. my steering has alot of slop and is very wobbly. would getting the aluminium steering set help solve some of this problem?

3. do the losi xxxs front hub carriers fit onto the tc4. i have heard in some places that they do but i just want to make sure?

4. can you get lightweight aluminium screw kits for the tc4?

thanks

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

to remove slop, take off the ball cups, hold a piece of plastic bag over the ball end and snap the cup onto the ball end. Do it for all the spots associated with the steering and it will remove a bunch of slop. the steering gets a little more resistance, but nothing the servo wont laugh at.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

There really isnt a need for all that steering throw. Honestly, if your car is using all that steering throw then it is referred to as "tight". This means the car doesnt rotate easily. That is not to be misunderstood as the opposite of "the rear tires are breaking loose and sliding around". A car rotating through the corner means all four tires are in contact with the racing surface... and the suspension/chassis is allowing the car to turn. Not breaking traction/contact between the tires surface and the racing surface. Learning to drive the car with what is commonly referred to as "push" and finding "steering" in your setup, not transmitter (ie: excessive EPA/DR), is what (part of) can make you a faster driver. It is true that tires are the largest part of ANY racing setup/chassis. Alot of racers run mixed compounds... but a TC really needs to be similar in compound F/R because its is 4WD. Mixed compounds can make a TC feel as if it has a viscous coupling between the F/R diffs, but not, and make the car inconsistent... albeit more noticeable in Mod. A chassis' ability to utilize traction, which IS friction, with the least amount of binding, provides you with a faster car at the end of the run. The motor doesnt work as hard to do the same job. The motor draws less amps, is cooler, and stays stronger through the length of the run. If it draws less amps, then your battery has a higher average voltage and more runtime towards the end of the run. This may all seem useless with todays IB's and motors... but trust me... this is the stuff that makes the difference from main to main.

On bumpsteer... bump-out gives you more steering coming into the corner... this adding toe out upon suspension compression. Bump-in does the opposite... making the car calmer coming into corners where rear traction may be at a minimum, or if you are heavy on the brakes. Think asphalt with a silly mod. The adjustments can be seen by taking the shocks off the car... removing all of the washers under the steering knuckle ballstud, zeroing out toe, and looking down on the car and moving the suspension up and down... watching the hex that would be inside the wheel... seeing it angle in and out as the suspension is moved through its range of motion. For the opposite effect... add three washers... zero out toe... and repeat. It is a fine adjustment... but one that can be used AND abused. Ackerman is a similar premise... but it affects the angle of both steering knuckles in relation to each other. Honestly a similar effect can be achieved by moving the links all the way forward (from even)... as it can by moving it a similar amount back. The difference is sensitivity or twitchiness depending on the style rack used. Anyone who has run oval/12th roadcourse moves the servo F/R a bit to find the best position for ackerman. Simply put... the greater the angle on the steering turnbuckles... the greater the difference between the angle of each steering knuckle... this is better for tighter courses. If the inside tire has to travel a much smaller circle in relation to the outer tire... the greater the ackerman angle needs to be. The opposite is true for larger radiused corners. These are generalizations, and can be varied when your setup includes either a one-way or a spool. The rest is track time.



Hope this helps.



- DaveW

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Wow Dave nice post. I should print that. Some nice info in their. Lots of stuff you sometimes don't think about thats for sure.

ksj44

iTrader: (11)

Bob, I just mounted the jrx-s spindles on my tc4 and the seem to fit good. It definetly adds ackerman to the car (i think i will have to go to the short balls studs in the swing rack to help take some out). it seems that they widen the front end a little also (i'm estimating .0625"per side--just a guess). one nice feature is i put up to a 30mm wide rim in the front end and i didn't have to grind on anything! i havent tried them yet but i'll let you know how it goes, i have been running oval lately so i will know how it acts at hight speed. hope this helps.

Keith

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Im interested in knowing how that works out. Keep us updated!!!!