goop

iTrader: (2)

if you go this route and change the entire front end to run the mugen cvd's you are also changing the geometry of the car which will change the way the car drives and handles.

Xray prince

Actually Nitrogasm is one of my fellow club members,,,,,and he use to run Mugen B4 the NT1 and he claims tht he measured it all out..and the uppers hav the same geometry.......I dnt kno!

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

I thought the same thing, that everything was the same. It actualy IS NOT. The pivot balls are closer together with the Mugen parts, changing roll center. The length of the pivot points are also different. They look the same, but they are not. If running the mugen parts (I know, I tested before the CVD's were available) causes the car to push a little more going in and is not as fast through the middle of the corner. Also, camber gain is different when compressing suspension and during turning. It may be close, but close is not the same. To most racers, I guess this wouldn't be a major issue, but I could feel the difference in driving the car. It is faster going into the corners and in the middle.

This is my oppinion.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

Even if the mugen knuckle setup retains the proper geometry of the car I fail to see the benifit. The only issue people seem to have with the NT1 front end is the cost of the CVDs but I find it hard to believe that a set of mugen CVDs, knuckles and pillow balls would be any cheaper.

thamjk

How would you organised the AAA battries to fit in NT1.

asw7576

I have spare uprights for mtx4 and nt1. Let me measure the distance between the two openings from mtx4's pivot ball and nt1's pivot ball.

I think nitroorgasm has left over mugen spareparts..... perhaps he was utilising what he has instead of buying xray's cvd and uprights.

I don't have any objection with his idea....... he was having problem with broken cvd and broken upright after some side wall crashes.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

When you measure them OFF the car, they will look the same. Put them on and you will see what I am refering too. A broken CVD...Man that must be some sidewall crash I tagged the back wall all the way down at WOT at Kissimmee this past weekend and slammed into the wall at the end of the straigh a way., the only thiing that happened was I bent a rim so bad that the tire wouldn't even roll.

Ryan41

iTrader: (8)

Well, I finished building my car..all ready to rock and roll..cant wait to drive her I love the brown hudy steel...! Was gonna run a LLT3 motor in her..but decided to open to JP box instead..so I will be running the JP FX T-03M...should I be swapping this any time soon, or will it do me fine?

Car rolls so free! Got the track width at 198 at the front..and the dog bones look scary..can see them coming out..might put some more rubber o-rings in behind.. Anyone know any places who have CVD's in stock? woulda love to swap for these..and also, alloy shock bodies..I can find fronts..but not rears..

Cheers, Ryan

P,S, XRAY...BRING OUT A 1/8 !!!!!! Is this on the horizon?

Apex

iTrader: (51)

Nice...Link to CVD's below.

http://nexusracing.net/product_info....3f0bba68c29463

brianhatesnitro

iTrader: (1)

Hey, why does your car say Chris?

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

you build it in a 5 cell side pack configuration. Mount the pack in the middle of the tray with 3 cells in the tray and the other 3 hanging over the side towards your pipe.

If you need a pic to see how its done, I can snap one for you when I get home tonight.

Mark

asw7576

I alrady measure the height of NT1 and MTX4 front uprights.

Total heights : NT1 ( 4.15mm ) ---- MTX4 ( 4.19mm )

Distance between two holes for pivot balls : NT1 ( 3.01mm ) ---- MTX4 ( 3.05mm )

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

this is which brand name body ?

Thanks !

Sow&Steady

Looks like Titan brand.

wallyedmonds

i 2nd that.