rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

On the shelf! At least I can relegate my RRRs to the Outlaw class.

IMO, the mating surfaces don't provide enough friction to keep the pivot balls from backing out. With thread lock, the nuts go right on with no effort - and the pivot balls screw into the suspension arms (no thread lock) like butter.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

I would suggest building 40 & 60K rear diffs and a 40K front. The 40K rear speeds up the car through mid corner and helps plant the rear on exit in low to med grip levels. In higher grip conditions the mid corner bog with the 60K goes away and pulls harder on exit. A light front diff gives good turn-in and scrubs less than the conventional stagger. Go softer than 40K in the front and you are likely to lose some breaking on entry and harder setups like 60 or 80K sacrafice scrub like a spool on entry.

Mark

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I can't even get it right on my RRRs. It's Permatex for me.

I don't have my side belt tension set to the max. Hopefully it's just that.

XRAY needs an addendum to the manual to state what the correct starting gap should be.

Another addendum. The length of the shaft extending out of the left side of the bulkhead when you tighten the brake pulley key.

Can that happen as soon as you put the car on the track? Right from the get go, it starts making that sound.

Will do.

Thanks for all the advice Mark.

brianhatesnitro

iTrader: (1)

Here is a quick update on tire wear at the nationals track, have any of you guys tried using a harder tire on just one side? Does it drive oddly enough to worry about it? Is there anything I can do setup wise to help this out? The nats surface will have enough traction to require 45 shore rear tires and I've had an extremely hard time finding any harder than that.

This was for a 15 minute main and maybe 3 minutes of warmup.

Twister tires, 40 shore @ 58mm fronts and 42 shore @ 60mm rears.

56.9mm RF
56.1mm LF
55.7mm RR
57.6mm LR

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

..

GK

Make sure the brake cam post isn't rubbing on the brake disc.

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Ok you guys have been way to nice on the topic of screws backing out.

So what is the deal with this anyone have a solution, 6 races, and I have been take out every time by something in this car backing out, this past weekend the freaken nuts on the wheels backed off, put it back together using blue locktight and 2 mins of running pow, again. I have used blue and red locktight thought this car and even CA in some places... But no matter what, this thing seems to vibrate to the point, that something is going to fall off. I'm really trying to work with this car, but short of CA every freakin screw, nut, etc. nothing has worked.

Any ideas from the poeple that make it trough a 20 min main with out the something backing out? Yes, I use blue locktight, red locktight, and CA glue... But nothing seems to work... I'm running CVDs in the front, Nothing bent, and dogbones in the back, nothing bent...

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

No way!! Really??

Are you suggesting that I may have to shim the bulkhead side brake pad?

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Haven't you heard??? You need to buy the new option parts to fix that problem.

I'm just kidding bro.

MBlackketter

The only nuts that I have found that don't back off are the Kawhara ones.

They have them in Silver and Black.

Mark

GK

I prefer to use wheel nuts that have serrated flange, it cuts into the wheel rim when you tighten it, you'll never loose it again. Serpent has them as well, part #SER 801217.
For uprights and arms, I make scratches in the threaded holes with a small screw driver all the way around (try not to damage the first few threads), I don't use loctite on these parts and have no issues with pivot balls or nuts backing out...

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

The Mugen serrated wheel nuts work just as well. I'm finally going to switch all my cars to those.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Hi Ryan,
But HK small this engine & parts,
If you choice Kyosho X312T or OS 12TZ spec 2 ?

Thanks!

Nexus Racing

I'm lucky enough to have a hardware store 3 miles away that has a drawer full of these at all times . Serrated M4 flange nuts are the way to go .

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

So long as the pulley isn't all the way towards the spurs the pins won't rub. Alternatively if you shim the play out of the shaft with the shims on the side pulley side it can't shift far enough for it to run regardless of the brake pulley placement.

The servo sounds wont occur immediately unless you have drag brake, too much throttle spring and/or return spring tension, or the fets have already been damaged. Digital throttle servos are just failures waiting to happen, a good analog servo works best. Keep the digital one for a steering backup.

You have 3 options you can:
A. cut your tires even left to right with your normal fr/re split and have a car that starts great and falls off all race.
B. cut your tires larger on the higher wear wheels so that they even out mid way through the race giving you a better car for at least the 2nd 1/2 of the main than option A. You will have asymmetrical handling at the start that balances in the middle before falling back off. If you have to cut 1mm or more difference you would probably be better with a shore stagger.
C. Run harder tires on the higher wear wheels to even out tire wear. This option generally give the most consistent handling but will be asymmetrical from start to finish. I usually try this before staggering my tire dia.

Depending on conditions you may need to do a combination of options 2 & 3 to get the best result.

For the wheels the stock nuts lose their nylon locks fast and should be changed. I am using HPI steel nuts on my car but the serrated nuts like Mugen offers are better. For other items like the shocks, camber & steering links just make sure you got them nice and tight before every race and they should easily make a 60min final w/o lock tight. Make sure you hold the screws tight w/ your 2mm allen when tightening the nuts with your 3mm.

If you have screws backing out of the composite parts you can try putting some thick blue threadlock (Tamiya stuff works best) on the screws but most likely the composite has been stripped out.

Mark