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Old 09-17-2007, 10:38 AM   #1936
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Originally Posted by Osiris 75 View Post
After racing mine for the first time, I put my MTX4 on the shelf!
On the shelf! At least I can relegate my RRRs to the Outlaw class.

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My diffs don't leak, however my pivot balls and pivot ball cups continually re-adjust while driving. I put in some thread locker, so hopefully that prevents it from happening anymore.
IMO, the mating surfaces don't provide enough friction to keep the pivot balls from backing out. With thread lock, the nuts go right on with no effort - and the pivot balls screw into the suspension arms (no thread lock) like butter.
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Old 09-17-2007, 10:48 AM   #1937
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Having extra diffs is really the way to go. If that sound is the brake disk, then I guess I didn't leave enough of a gap between the pads.

Hmmm... would like to get to the bottom of what it is.
I would suggest building 40 & 60K rear diffs and a 40K front. The 40K rear speeds up the car through mid corner and helps plant the rear on exit in low to med grip levels. In higher grip conditions the mid corner bog with the 60K goes away and pulls harder on exit. A light front diff gives good turn-in and scrubs less than the conventional stagger. Go softer than 40K in the front and you are likely to lose some breaking on entry and harder setups like 60 or 80K sacrafice scrub like a spool on entry.

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Old 09-17-2007, 10:52 AM   #1938
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The diff seals do suck but with a bit of practice they can be built so they don't leak. To ensure a good seal you must use a new o-ring, proper fill level, and the right amount of tension. With the process below I haven't had any leakage problems with mine.
I can't even get it right on my RRRs. It's Permatex for me.

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For the twirling sound I would suggest you check your side belt tension and rear side pulley. With the 25T side pullet you will need to run the side belt tension at maximum to keep it from skipping under braking and hard acceleration. The belt may also bounce and slip if your side pulley gets gummed up with debris. Should the belt check not resolve the problem check your rear brake setup.
I don't have my side belt tension set to the max. Hopefully it's just that.

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If your brake screws are too tight (light drag) or too lose (lots of play) the brake disk with float and squeal.
XRAY needs an addendum to the manual to state what the correct starting gap should be.

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There is also potential for the pins on the brake pulley to rub the bulkhead if it is shifted all the way towards the spurs on its set screw key.
Another addendum. The length of the shaft extending out of the left side of the bulkhead when you tighten the brake pulley key.

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A digital servo can also make a similar sound when the fets overheat from being used in a throttle application.
Can that happen as soon as you put the car on the track? Right from the get go, it starts making that sound.

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The last thing to check is your 2spd assembly, make sure it is assembled correctly and the shoes are not spread too far rubbing on the gear adapter.
Will do.

Thanks for all the advice Mark.
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Old 09-17-2007, 10:58 AM   #1939
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Here is a quick update on tire wear at the nationals track, have any of you guys tried using a harder tire on just one side? Does it drive oddly enough to worry about it? Is there anything I can do setup wise to help this out? The nats surface will have enough traction to require 45 shore rear tires and I've had an extremely hard time finding any harder than that.

This was for a 15 minute main and maybe 3 minutes of warmup.

Twister tires, 40 shore @ 58mm fronts and 42 shore @ 60mm rears.

56.9mm RF
56.1mm LF
55.7mm RR
57.6mm LR
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:24 AM   #1940
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..
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Last edited by rmdhawaii; 09-17-2007 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:28 AM   #1941
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I do have a question though... Where/what is that whirling/twirling chirping sound coming from when the car is on-throttle???
Make sure the brake cam post isn't rubbing on the brake disc.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:40 AM   #1942
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Ok you guys have been way to nice on the topic of screws backing out.

So what is the deal with this anyone have a solution, 6 races, and I have been take out every time by something in this car backing out, this past weekend the freaken nuts on the wheels backed off, put it back together using blue locktight and 2 mins of running pow, again. I have used blue and red locktight thought this car and even CA in some places... But no matter what, this thing seems to vibrate to the point, that something is going to fall off. I'm really trying to work with this car, but short of CA every freakin screw, nut, etc. nothing has worked.

Any ideas from the poeple that make it trough a 20 min main with out the something backing out? Yes, I use blue locktight, red locktight, and CA glue... But nothing seems to work... I'm running CVDs in the front, Nothing bent, and dogbones in the back, nothing bent...
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:45 AM   #1943
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Originally Posted by GK View Post
Make sure the brake cam post isn't rubbing on the brake disc.
No way!! Really??

Are you suggesting that I may have to shim the bulkhead side brake pad?
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:52 AM   #1944
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Ok you guys have been way to nice on the topic of screws backing out.
Haven't you heard??? You need to buy the new option parts to fix that problem.

I'm just kidding bro.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:57 AM   #1945
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Ok you guys have been way to nice on the topic of screws backing out.

So what is the deal with this anyone have a solution, 6 races, and I have been take out every time by something in this car backing out, this past weekend the freaken nuts on the wheels backed off, put it back together using blue locktight and 2 mins of running pow, again. I have used blue and red locktight thought this car and even CA in some places... But no matter what, this thing seems to vibrate to the point, that something is going to fall off. I'm really trying to work with this car, but short of CA every freakin screw, nut, etc. nothing has worked.

Any ideas from the poeple that make it trough a 20 min main with out the something backing out? Yes, I use blue locktight, red locktight, and CA glue... But nothing seems to work... I'm running CVDs in the front, Nothing bent, and dogbones in the back, nothing bent...
The only nuts that I have found that don't back off are the Kawhara ones.

They have them in Silver and Black.

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Old 09-17-2007, 12:04 PM   #1946
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...this past weekend the freaken nuts on the wheels backed off, put it back together using blue locktight and 2 mins of running pow, again.
I prefer to use wheel nuts that have serrated flange, it cuts into the wheel rim when you tighten it, you'll never loose it again. Serpent has them as well, part #SER 801217.
For uprights and arms, I make scratches in the threaded holes with a small screw driver all the way around (try not to damage the first few threads), I don't use loctite on these parts and have no issues with pivot balls or nuts backing out...
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Old 09-17-2007, 12:11 PM   #1947
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Originally Posted by GK View Post
I prefer to use wheel nuts that have serrated flange, it cuts into the wheel rim when you tighten it, you'll never loose it again. Serpent has them as well, part #SER 801217.
For uprights and arms, I make scratches in the threaded holes with a small screw driver all the way around (try not to damage the first few threads), I don't use loctite on these parts and have no issues with pivot balls or nuts backing out...
The Mugen serrated wheel nuts work just as well. I'm finally going to switch all my cars to those.
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Old 09-17-2007, 12:21 PM   #1948
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Hey R/C Market, I use a Max Power SL3 Engine. It has awesome power and is super reliable. It will idle for as long as i want it to. I think it's just as fast as the Novarossi Plus 12-3CT. Deffinately the best motor i have ever owned.

Regards, Ryan
Hi Ryan,
But HK small this engine & parts,
If you choice Kyosho X312T or OS 12TZ spec 2 ?

Thanks!
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Old 09-17-2007, 12:37 PM   #1949
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
The Mugen serrated wheel nuts work just as well. I'm finally going to switch all my cars to those.
I'm lucky enough to have a hardware store 3 miles away that has a drawer full of these at all times . Serrated M4 flange nuts are the way to go .
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Old 09-17-2007, 12:46 PM   #1950
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Another addendum. The length of the shaft extending out of the left side of the bulkhead when you tighten the brake pulley key.

Can that happen as soon as you put the car on the track? Right from the get go, it starts making that sound.
So long as the pulley isn't all the way towards the spurs the pins won't rub. Alternatively if you shim the play out of the shaft with the shims on the side pulley side it can't shift far enough for it to run regardless of the brake pulley placement.

The servo sounds wont occur immediately unless you have drag brake, too much throttle spring and/or return spring tension, or the fets have already been damaged. Digital throttle servos are just failures waiting to happen, a good analog servo works best. Keep the digital one for a steering backup.

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Originally Posted by brianhatesnitro View Post
Here is a quick update on tire wear at the nationals track, have any of you guys tried using a harder tire on just one side? Does it drive oddly enough to worry about it? Is there anything I can do setup wise to help this out? The nats surface will have enough traction to require 45 shore rear tires and I've had an extremely hard time finding any harder than that.

This was for a 15 minute main and maybe 3 minutes of warmup.

Twister tires, 40 shore @ 58mm fronts and 42 shore @ 60mm rears.

56.9mm RF
56.1mm LF
55.7mm RR
57.6mm LR
You have 3 options you can:
A. cut your tires even left to right with your normal fr/re split and have a car that starts great and falls off all race.
B. cut your tires larger on the higher wear wheels so that they even out mid way through the race giving you a better car for at least the 2nd 1/2 of the main than option A. You will have asymmetrical handling at the start that balances in the middle before falling back off. If you have to cut 1mm or more difference you would probably be better with a shore stagger.
C. Run harder tires on the higher wear wheels to even out tire wear. This option generally give the most consistent handling but will be asymmetrical from start to finish. I usually try this before staggering my tire dia.

Depending on conditions you may need to do a combination of options 2 & 3 to get the best result.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Ok you guys have been way to nice on the topic of screws backing out.

So what is the deal with this anyone have a solution, 6 races, and I have been take out every time by something in this car backing out, this past weekend the freaken nuts on the wheels backed off, put it back together using blue locktight and 2 mins of running pow, again. I have used blue and red locktight thought this car and even CA in some places... But no matter what, this thing seems to vibrate to the point, that something is going to fall off. I'm really trying to work with this car, but short of CA every freakin screw, nut, etc. nothing has worked.

Any ideas from the poeple that make it trough a 20 min main with out the something backing out? Yes, I use blue locktight, red locktight, and CA glue... But nothing seems to work... I'm running CVDs in the front, Nothing bent, and dogbones in the back, nothing bent...
For the wheels the stock nuts lose their nylon locks fast and should be changed. I am using HPI steel nuts on my car but the serrated nuts like Mugen offers are better. For other items like the shocks, camber & steering links just make sure you got them nice and tight before every race and they should easily make a 60min final w/o lock tight. Make sure you hold the screws tight w/ your 2mm allen when tightening the nuts with your 3mm.

If you have screws backing out of the composite parts you can try putting some thick blue threadlock (Tamiya stuff works best) on the screws but most likely the composite has been stripped out.

Mark
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