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Old 08-21-2007, 06:12 PM   #1786
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That's right.

I keep using stock dogbones and haven't lost a thing because I use +.75mm wheel hex with 198mm front track width.

My friend was using 0mm wheel hex with 198mm track width. He missed his heat #1. I believe he switched to CVD before heat #2. Ditto story with my another friend with NT1, .... he lost his front dogbones in practice day.

I believe nitroorgasm had economical idea to use Mugen Seiki parts : front CVD ( must check which cvd has the same length like original nt1 cvd ), front uprights, front bearings and pivot balls.
if you go this route and change the entire front end to run the mugen cvd's you are also changing the geometry of the car which will change the way the car drives and handles.
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:28 PM   #1787
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Actually Nitrogasm is one of my fellow club members,,,,,and he use to run Mugen B4 the NT1 and he claims tht he measured it all out..and the uppers hav the same geometry.......I dnt kno!
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:31 PM   #1788
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if you go this route and change the entire front end to run the mugen cvd's you are also changing the geometry of the car which will change the way the car drives and handles.
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Actually Nitrogasm is one of my fellow club members,,,,,and he use to run Mugen B4 the NT1 and he claims tht he measured it all out..and the uppers hav the same geometry.......I dnt kno!
I thought the same thing, that everything was the same. It actualy IS NOT. The pivot balls are closer together with the Mugen parts, changing roll center. The length of the pivot points are also different. They look the same, but they are not. If running the mugen parts (I know, I tested before the CVD's were available) causes the car to push a little more going in and is not as fast through the middle of the corner. Also, camber gain is different when compressing suspension and during turning. It may be close, but close is not the same. To most racers, I guess this wouldn't be a major issue, but I could feel the difference in driving the car. It is faster going into the corners and in the middle.

This is my oppinion.
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:49 PM   #1789
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Even if the mugen knuckle setup retains the proper geometry of the car I fail to see the benifit. The only issue people seem to have with the NT1 front end is the cost of the CVDs but I find it hard to believe that a set of mugen CVDs, knuckles and pillow balls would be any cheaper.
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:51 PM   #1790
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I stand corrected, the proposal I ready was amended to electric classes only in the final ruling.

The AAA pack is still the way to go, its cheaper, and still reduces the weight and allows you to drop the tank the same 4mm.

One other advantage of the AAA pack is that the 2 cells positioned on the left side of the chassis help correct the left/right weight balance reducing the amount of weights needed.

Mark
How would you organised the AAA battries to fit in NT1.
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:31 PM   #1791
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I thought the same thing, that everything was the same. It actualy IS NOT. The pivot balls are closer together with the Mugen parts, changing roll center. The length of the pivot points are also different. They look the same, but they are not. If running the mugen parts (I know, I tested before the CVD's were available) causes the car to push a little more going in and is not as fast through the middle of the corner. Also, camber gain is different when compressing suspension and during turning. It may be close, but close is not the same. To most racers, I guess this wouldn't be a major issue, but I could feel the difference in driving the car. It is faster going into the corners and in the middle.

This is my oppinion.
I have spare uprights for mtx4 and nt1. Let me measure the distance between the two openings from mtx4's pivot ball and nt1's pivot ball.

I think nitroorgasm has left over mugen spareparts..... perhaps he was utilising what he has instead of buying xray's cvd and uprights.

I don't have any objection with his idea....... he was having problem with broken cvd and broken upright after some side wall crashes.

Last edited by asw7576; 08-21-2007 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 08-22-2007, 01:47 AM   #1792
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I have spare uprights for mtx4 and nt1. Let me measure the distance between the two openings from mtx4's pivot ball and nt1's pivot ball.

I think nitroorgasm has left over mugen spareparts..... perhaps he was utilising what he has instead of buying xray's cvd and uprights.

I don't have any objection with his idea....... he was having problem with broken cvd and broken upright after some side wall crashes.
When you measure them OFF the car, they will look the same. Put them on and you will see what I am refering too. A broken CVD...Man that must be some sidewall crash I tagged the back wall all the way down at WOT at Kissimmee this past weekend and slammed into the wall at the end of the straigh a way., the only thiing that happened was I bent a rim so bad that the tire wouldn't even roll.
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:27 AM   #1793
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Well, I finished building my car..all ready to rock and roll..cant wait to drive her I love the brown hudy steel...! Was gonna run a LLT3 motor in her..but decided to open to JP box instead..so I will be running the JP FX T-03M...should I be swapping this any time soon, or will it do me fine?

Car rolls so free! Got the track width at 198 at the front..and the dog bones look scary..can see them coming out..might put some more rubber o-rings in behind.. Anyone know any places who have CVD's in stock? woulda love to swap for these..and also, alloy shock bodies..I can find fronts..but not rears..

Cheers, Ryan

P,S, XRAY...BRING OUT A 1/8 !!!!!! Is this on the horizon?

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Old 08-22-2007, 07:04 AM   #1794
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Well, I finished building my car..all ready to rock and roll..cant wait to drive her I love the brown hudy steel...! Was gonna run a LLT3 motor in her..but decided to open to JP box instead..so I will be running the JP FX T-03M...should I be swapping this any time soon, or will it do me fine?

Car rolls so free! Got the track width at 198 at the front..and the dog bones look scary..can see them coming out..might put some more rubber o-rings in behind.. Anyone know any places who have CVD's in stock? woulda love to swap for these..and also, alloy shock bodies..I can find fronts..but not rears..

Cheers, Ryan

P,S, XRAY...BRING OUT A 1/8 !!!!!! Is this on the horizon?

Nice...Link to CVD's below.

http://nexusracing.net/product_info....3f0bba68c29463
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:12 AM   #1795
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Cheers, Ryan
Hey, why does your car say Chris?
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:56 AM   #1796
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How would you organised the AAA battries to fit in NT1.
you build it in a 5 cell side pack configuration. Mount the pack in the middle of the tray with 3 cells in the tray and the other 3 hanging over the side towards your pipe.

If you need a pic to see how its done, I can snap one for you when I get home tonight.

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Old 08-22-2007, 10:26 AM   #1797
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I alrady measure the height of NT1 and MTX4 front uprights.

Total heights : NT1 ( 4.15mm ) ---- MTX4 ( 4.19mm )

Distance between two holes for pivot balls : NT1 ( 3.01mm ) ---- MTX4 ( 3.05mm )
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:12 AM   #1798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan41 View Post
Well, I finished building my car..all ready to rock and roll..cant wait to drive her I love the brown hudy steel...! Was gonna run a LLT3 motor in her..but decided to open to JP box instead..so I will be running the JP FX T-03M...should I be swapping this any time soon, or will it do me fine?

Car rolls so free! Got the track width at 198 at the front..and the dog bones look scary..can see them coming out..might put some more rubber o-rings in behind.. Anyone know any places who have CVD's in stock? woulda love to swap for these..and also, alloy shock bodies..I can find fronts..but not rears..

Cheers, Ryan

P,S, XRAY...BRING OUT A 1/8 !!!!!! Is this on the horizon?

this is which brand name body ?

Thanks !
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:37 PM   #1799
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Looks like Titan brand.
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Old 08-22-2007, 04:14 PM   #1800
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Looks like Titan brand.
i 2nd that.
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