Durango DEX210 Thread
#767
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
So Im about 3/4 done with the roller build. I only have turn buckles and shocks to go, and so far there are a few interesting issues with the car.
1. Let me start off by saying that the car looks pretty amazing so far.
2. Do NOT accidentally put the shorter turnblock hingepins on the inside of the front Arms... they sink right down to the bottom and they don't come out
3. I had numerous missing screws, but durango re-opened the box, included an extra screws bag, and resealed the box. Ultimately I ended up having everything.
4. None of the buttonhead screws that go down around the battery compartment, bit into the plastic. They JUST START TO.... and then they just spin. These guys needed to be probably 2mm longer
5. Had some quality control issues with the large side pieces that bolt on around the servo, that finish up the side pods. They sort of "lego" around a piece that is already screwed down onto the chassis, and they were off by about 1mm.. took some muscling to get them into place.
6. I think I spent as much time getting the spur/slipper assembly together as the entire rest of the car
7. Working on the gearbox/rear end of the car seems like it's going to be a bit of a task
8. And last but not least... the ONE thing I am actually concerned with about this car... is it just me, or does it appear that your entire racing night would be over if you break a rear ball stud on the inside? There isn't a modular piece to replace, so if you snap a ball stud and you can't get it out... you need an entirely new gearbox? (or maybe you can drill it out?) The engineering around the car is AMAZING... but this seems like an equally amazing oversight. Just me or am I missing something? This might be a good spot to put a couple of titanium ball studs.
Shocks and electronics, tomorrow.
1. Let me start off by saying that the car looks pretty amazing so far.
2. Do NOT accidentally put the shorter turnblock hingepins on the inside of the front Arms... they sink right down to the bottom and they don't come out
3. I had numerous missing screws, but durango re-opened the box, included an extra screws bag, and resealed the box. Ultimately I ended up having everything.
4. None of the buttonhead screws that go down around the battery compartment, bit into the plastic. They JUST START TO.... and then they just spin. These guys needed to be probably 2mm longer
5. Had some quality control issues with the large side pieces that bolt on around the servo, that finish up the side pods. They sort of "lego" around a piece that is already screwed down onto the chassis, and they were off by about 1mm.. took some muscling to get them into place.
6. I think I spent as much time getting the spur/slipper assembly together as the entire rest of the car
7. Working on the gearbox/rear end of the car seems like it's going to be a bit of a task
8. And last but not least... the ONE thing I am actually concerned with about this car... is it just me, or does it appear that your entire racing night would be over if you break a rear ball stud on the inside? There isn't a modular piece to replace, so if you snap a ball stud and you can't get it out... you need an entirely new gearbox? (or maybe you can drill it out?) The engineering around the car is AMAZING... but this seems like an equally amazing oversight. Just me or am I missing something? This might be a good spot to put a couple of titanium ball studs.
Shocks and electronics, tomorrow.
#768
I spent roughly 10 hours building the car from start to finish. That does include having to disassemble the trans once after putting the diff in backwards (at 3am, right before I called it a night) and disassembling the front turnbuckles and counterboring the end of the ballcups a bit so that they do not rub the non-threaded section of the turnbuckle- even with some grease they were a bit tight and didn't want to adjust very easily. I also spent about 2 hours on wiring, but the wires on the sxx esc needed to be replaced so that added some time.
If you can get someone to help you, maybe build the shocks and turnbuckles, you could do it but it would likely still be a late night.
#772
8. And last but not least... the ONE thing I am actually concerned with about this car... is it just me, or does it appear that your entire racing night would be over if you break a rear ball stud on the inside? There isn't a modular piece to replace, so if you snap a ball stud and you can't get it out... you need an entirely new gearbox? (or maybe you can drill it out?) The engineering around the car is AMAZING... but this seems like an equally amazing oversight. Just me or am I missing something? This might be a good spot to put a couple of titanium ball studs.
#773
So Im about 3/4 done with the roller build. I only have turn buckles and shocks to go, and so far there are a few interesting issues with the car.
1. Let me start off by saying that the car looks pretty amazing so far.
2. Do NOT accidentally put the shorter turnblock hingepins on the inside of the front Arms... they sink right down to the bottom and they don't come out
3. I had numerous missing screws, but durango re-opened the box, included an extra screws bag, and resealed the box. Ultimately I ended up having everything.
4. None of the buttonhead screws that go down around the battery compartment, bit into the plastic. They JUST START TO.... and then they just spin. These guys needed to be probably 2mm longer
5. Had some quality control issues with the large side pieces that bolt on around the servo, that finish up the side pods. They sort of "lego" around a piece that is already screwed down onto the chassis, and they were off by about 1mm.. took some muscling to get them into place.
6. I think I spent as much time getting the spur/slipper assembly together as the entire rest of the car
7. Working on the gearbox/rear end of the car seems like it's going to be a bit of a task
8. And last but not least... the ONE thing I am actually concerned with about this car... is it just me, or does it appear that your entire racing night would be over if you break a rear ball stud on the inside? There isn't a modular piece to replace, so if you snap a ball stud and you can't get it out... you need an entirely new gearbox? (or maybe you can drill it out?) The engineering around the car is AMAZING... but this seems like an equally amazing oversight. Just me or am I missing something? This might be a good spot to put a couple of titanium ball studs.
Shocks and electronics, tomorrow.
1. Let me start off by saying that the car looks pretty amazing so far.
2. Do NOT accidentally put the shorter turnblock hingepins on the inside of the front Arms... they sink right down to the bottom and they don't come out
3. I had numerous missing screws, but durango re-opened the box, included an extra screws bag, and resealed the box. Ultimately I ended up having everything.
4. None of the buttonhead screws that go down around the battery compartment, bit into the plastic. They JUST START TO.... and then they just spin. These guys needed to be probably 2mm longer
5. Had some quality control issues with the large side pieces that bolt on around the servo, that finish up the side pods. They sort of "lego" around a piece that is already screwed down onto the chassis, and they were off by about 1mm.. took some muscling to get them into place.
6. I think I spent as much time getting the spur/slipper assembly together as the entire rest of the car
7. Working on the gearbox/rear end of the car seems like it's going to be a bit of a task
8. And last but not least... the ONE thing I am actually concerned with about this car... is it just me, or does it appear that your entire racing night would be over if you break a rear ball stud on the inside? There isn't a modular piece to replace, so if you snap a ball stud and you can't get it out... you need an entirely new gearbox? (or maybe you can drill it out?) The engineering around the car is AMAZING... but this seems like an equally amazing oversight. Just me or am I missing something? This might be a good spot to put a couple of titanium ball studs.
Shocks and electronics, tomorrow.
I had some of the same issues. I didnt like the way the screws didnt engage around the battery compartment either so I went to 12mm and 16mm length screws and they were all tight then.
I had the same problem with the servo mount pieces too. They took a little force to get them in but it all fits nice once together.
The 4 ballstuds in my A bag were a different color than the rest and I split 2 of them just threading them in. I replaced the 4 with new ones that were a little shorter for the DESC and they went great.
I also really didnt like the inner camber links being molded into the tranny. It just doesnt really make sense to have to get a new tranny case if break a ball stud.
It took me 4 1/2 hours to build mine without motor and ESC. I will have another 3 hours in painting the body though. LOL. Its a painter nightmare with all those bends and narrow channels!
#774
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
I had some of the same issues. I didnt like the way the screws didnt engage around the battery compartment either so I went to 12mm and 16mm length screws and they were all tight then.
I had the same problem with the servo mount pieces too. They took a little force to get them in but it all fits nice once together.
The 4 ballstuds in my A bag were a different color than the rest and I split 2 of them just threading them in. I replaced the 4 with new ones that were a little shorter for the DESC and they went great.
I also really didnt like the inner camber links being molded into the tranny. It just doesnt really make sense to have to get a new tranny case if break a ball stud.
It took me 4 1/2 hours to build mine without motor and ESC. I will have another 3 hours in painting the body though. LOL. Its a painter nightmare with all those bends and narrow channels!
I had the same problem with the servo mount pieces too. They took a little force to get them in but it all fits nice once together.
The 4 ballstuds in my A bag were a different color than the rest and I split 2 of them just threading them in. I replaced the 4 with new ones that were a little shorter for the DESC and they went great.
I also really didnt like the inner camber links being molded into the tranny. It just doesnt really make sense to have to get a new tranny case if break a ball stud.
It took me 4 1/2 hours to build mine without motor and ESC. I will have another 3 hours in painting the body though. LOL. Its a painter nightmare with all those bends and narrow channels!
#775
For 3 gear rear-motor configuration the adjustment screw goes to the motor plate side, just like any other standard configuration car.
#776
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
Just got the turnbuckles and shocks left on mine too but yeah, all the screws that go into the chassis for the battery surround are way too short (only one spun though lucky) and still not sure what to think about the snap ring that holds the thrust in...kinda weird??? But other than that, tranny/diff feels smooth and everything else seems to go together pretty good?
I hope someone makes smaller spurs soon!!
I hope someone makes smaller spurs soon!!
#778
Tech Addict
RW Racing already do I've already got a RW 87 fitted. 83/85/87 Neil did the 83 & 85 for a Durango when one of his drivers ran it. Neil can do other sizes if you contact him.
www.rwracing.co.uk [email protected]
http://www.m-k-racing.com/advanced_s...rds=rw+durango
Not sure who his distro / stockist in the US is
www.rwracing.co.uk [email protected]
http://www.m-k-racing.com/advanced_s...rds=rw+durango
Not sure who his distro / stockist in the US is
#779
I had some of the same issues. I didnt like the way the screws didnt engage around the battery compartment either so I went to 12mm and 16mm length screws and they were all tight then.
I had the same problem with the servo mount pieces too. They took a little force to get them in but it all fits nice once together.
The 4 ballstuds in my A bag were a different color than the rest and I split 2 of them just threading them in. I replaced the 4 with new ones that were a little shorter for the DESC and they went great.
I also really didnt like the inner camber links being molded into the tranny. It just doesnt really make sense to have to get a new tranny case if break a ball stud.
It took me 4 1/2 hours to build mine without motor and ESC. I will have another 3 hours in painting the body though. LOL. Its a painter nightmare with all those bends and narrow channels!
I had the same problem with the servo mount pieces too. They took a little force to get them in but it all fits nice once together.
The 4 ballstuds in my A bag were a different color than the rest and I split 2 of them just threading them in. I replaced the 4 with new ones that were a little shorter for the DESC and they went great.
I also really didnt like the inner camber links being molded into the tranny. It just doesnt really make sense to have to get a new tranny case if break a ball stud.
It took me 4 1/2 hours to build mine without motor and ESC. I will have another 3 hours in painting the body though. LOL. Its a painter nightmare with all those bends and narrow channels!