80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
11-03-2011, 10:39 AM
#1517
Ran my 210 for the first time last night....woo hoo!! 
Even with way too thick of rear oil (40wt Losi oil cause I had some when I put the car together), the car was great out of the box.
A drop to 32.5wt in the rear (30wt might be even a little better) and it was even better.
A change in the lower front shock position got me some more off power mid corner steering (moved the bottom to inside hole on arm)
Set ride height to 24mm all the way around...kit springs...3 gear rear motor....med grip clay track.
I have 5 TOTAL runs on this car and am already within 3-5 tenths on average of the fast guys that run the layout 2-3 times a week (this was my 2nd time on the layout and first with the 210....and I wasnt even close with my "other" car)
Some more time and tuning on the car it will be stellar (it really already is!)
On to the talk of diff problems.....I did have an issue with mine during practice right after the car's second run.....diff started slipping BAD (not barking, just slipping like a slipper), yet the diff action was SUPER tight (but still smooth)
After taking off a million screws to get the trans out I found the diff gear was able to wobble slightly yet the diff felt really tight. Disassembled the diff to check the thrust assembly and noticed the snap ring didnt look like it was seated correctly like when I first put it together (you could tell because the open end of the clip was really close together) Took a flathead screwdriver and "twisted" it in the opening while pushing on the snap ring and it "clicked" into place. Somehow I may have not got the snap ring fully seated in the groove inside the outdrive and when I tightened the diff screw it pushed on the assembly and actually pushed the snap ring out of the groove....which would cause everything to "squish" together and bind up (why the diff was soo tight) as well as try to force the outdrives away from each other (which is probably why the diff gear was now wobbly).
So, MAKE SURE THE SNAP RING IS FULLY SEATED IN THE OUTDRIVE AND LOCKED INTO THE GROOVE TIGHT!!
I suspect this may be everyones problem with the diffs slipping..... after my "fix" I put on 3 more runs with no issues, a super smooth diff and no slipping or barking.
Even with way too thick of rear oil (40wt Losi oil cause I had some when I put the car together), the car was great out of the box.
A drop to 32.5wt in the rear (30wt might be even a little better) and it was even better.
A change in the lower front shock position got me some more off power mid corner steering (moved the bottom to inside hole on arm)
Set ride height to 24mm all the way around...kit springs...3 gear rear motor....med grip clay track.
I have 5 TOTAL runs on this car and am already within 3-5 tenths on average of the fast guys that run the layout 2-3 times a week (this was my 2nd time on the layout and first with the 210....and I wasnt even close with my "other" car)
Some more time and tuning on the car it will be stellar (it really already is!)
On to the talk of diff problems.....I did have an issue with mine during practice right after the car's second run.....diff started slipping BAD (not barking, just slipping like a slipper), yet the diff action was SUPER tight (but still smooth)
After taking off a million screws to get the trans out
I found the diff gear was able to wobble slightly yet the diff felt really tight. Disassembled the diff to check the thrust assembly and noticed the snap ring didnt look like it was seated correctly like when I first put it together (you could tell because the open end of the clip was really close together) Took a flathead screwdriver and "twisted" it in the opening while pushing on the snap ring and it "clicked" into place. Somehow I may have not got the snap ring fully seated in the groove inside the outdrive and when I tightened the diff screw it pushed on the assembly and actually pushed the snap ring out of the groove....which would cause everything to "squish" together and bind up (why the diff was soo tight) as well as try to force the outdrives away from each other (which is probably why the diff gear was now wobbly). So, MAKE SURE THE SNAP RING IS FULLY SEATED IN THE OUTDRIVE AND LOCKED INTO THE GROOVE TIGHT!!
I suspect this may be everyones problem with the diffs slipping..... after my "fix" I put on 3 more runs with no issues, a super smooth diff and no slipping or barking.
I've been thinking about grabbing one but am worried about ease of maintenance in some areas (ie taking out a million screws to work on diff).
11-03-2011, 10:53 AM
#1518
You and Pat's cars seem to be doing very well. Since we were in the same heats, I wasnt able to see how yours was doing but I've been able to watch Pat a couple times the last couple of weeks and was pretty impressed with the off power steering and forward bite he was getting. You gonna make it Saturday by chance?
I've been thinking about grabbing one but am worried about ease of maintenance in some areas (ie taking out a million screws to work on diff).
I've been thinking about grabbing one but am worried about ease of maintenance in some areas (ie taking out a million screws to work on diff).
And I wont be able to make it this weekend.Just getting the trans out is a bit of a chore, but if it's working properly then you shouldnt have to be taking it in and out all the time.....IMO the adjustments and easy of making those adjustments outweigh the trans removal hassle.
Pat has his 210 working really good. He's running the 4 gear trans in his and his set up is a little different since he's has some wheel time with his already. I was happy to be so close to his pace with so little track time with my car.
11-03-2011, 11:04 AM
#1519
Thanks! You were on it last night.... I'm happy with the performance of the car so far, especially since last night was the first time out with it....if only I didnt F myself in the main And I wont be able to make it this weekend.
Just getting the trans out is a bit of a chore, but if it's working properly then you shouldnt have to be taking it in and out all the time.....IMO the adjustments and easy of making those adjustments outweigh the trans removal hassle.
Pat has his 210 working really good. He's running the 4 gear trans in his and his set up is a little different since he's has some wheel time with his already. I was happy to be so close to his pace with so little track time with my car.
And I wont be able to make it this weekend.Just getting the trans out is a bit of a chore, but if it's working properly then you shouldnt have to be taking it in and out all the time.....IMO the adjustments and easy of making those adjustments outweigh the trans removal hassle.
Pat has his 210 working really good. He's running the 4 gear trans in his and his set up is a little different since he's has some wheel time with his already. I was happy to be so close to his pace with so little track time with my car.
11-03-2011, 01:40 PM
#1520
Oh, and I didnt pop off a single ball cup the whole night.....and I had a few tumbles that I thought sure would have done it.
I would say that if you are building the turnbuckles by sticking a screwdriver/allen wrench through the hole in the end of the ball cup, you might be stretching the end of the cup slightly when twisting making it easier to pop off in a wreck.
I would say that if you are building the turnbuckles by sticking a screwdriver/allen wrench through the hole in the end of the ball cup, you might be stretching the end of the cup slightly when twisting making it easier to pop off in a wreck.
11-03-2011, 03:38 PM
#1522
Just brought a dex210 and it seems when I come off a jump all wrong it pops the steering link off the akermen and servo I've put it back on so many times now so I replaced it with another one and still the same problem is there a way to stop this happening maybe a servo saver on the horn? Or a different ball cup from another car.
I realize this may have been asked but there is so many pages to find an easy fix
Also anyone got a setup sheet for a hard packed clay track
Thanks
I realize this may have been asked but there is so many pages to find an easy fix
Also anyone got a setup sheet for a hard packed clay track
Thanks
11-03-2011, 03:52 PM
#1523
Just brought a dex210 and it seems when I come off a jump all wrong it pops the steering link off the akermen and servo I've put it back on so many times now so I replaced it with another one and still the same problem is there a way to stop this happening maybe a servo saver on the horn? Or a different ball cup from another car.
I realize this may have been asked but there is so many pages to find an easy fix
Also anyone got a setup sheet for a hard packed clay track
Thanks
I realize this may have been asked but there is so many pages to find an easy fix
Also anyone got a setup sheet for a hard packed clay track
Thanks
Not sure why you're having soo much problem with that link.....some people say they've been having issues with the ball cups popping off easily on the whole car in general but I had several good crashes and brushes with the pipes and never popped one (knocking on wood...
)
11-03-2011, 03:54 PM
#1524
Just brought a dex210 and it seems when I come off a jump all wrong it pops the steering link off the akermen and servo I've put it back on so many times now so I replaced it with another one and still the same problem is there a way to stop this happening maybe a servo saver on the horn? Or a different ball cup from another car.
I realize this may have been asked but there is so many pages to find an easy fix
Also anyone got a setup sheet for a hard packed clay track
Thanks
I realize this may have been asked but there is so many pages to find an easy fix
Also anyone got a setup sheet for a hard packed clay track
Thanks
11-03-2011, 06:19 PM
#1525
There are so many pages can u post a link to the pages ineed
11-03-2011, 07:51 PM
#1526
Anyone else missing a lower shock seal? Just finished the build except for one shock secondary to not having this part. Built the kit in a clean open area so it was not dropped. I did notice 1 other one was loose in the bag. Real bummer because I was planning on racing it Saturday.
Is there another brand that will fit? I cannot seem to find that part in stock anywhere. I will attempt to call Durango tomorrow.
Is there another brand that will fit? I cannot seem to find that part in stock anywhere. I will attempt to call Durango tomorrow.
11-03-2011, 08:38 PM
#1528
11-03-2011, 10:58 PM
#1529
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Snap ring was the root of my diff issues as well, discovered by accident when I broke it during my sixth (now a pro at getting the tranny out) rebuild. I may have twisted it a bit on the initial build or didn't seat it properly as someone mentioned above. Xray T2 and T3 diff snap rings are the same size and quite a bit sturdier than the the stock ring and I had several in the parts box, so in it went and the diff hasn't slipped since. Something else to be aware of is the rear droop screws, be gentle. I snapped one making an adjustment, and the other attempting to remove it from the arm. It's tempting to flip the car over and get to the screw from the bottom because the camber link is in the way (and the shock mount to some extent), but there isn't much holding the head on.
I'm loving the car so far, way nicer to work on and drive than my previous buggy. Much more forgiving as well, especially on awkward landings...which I seem to have a lot of. Carpet racers can't jump Running Randy's setup with a few small changes, and I'd like to know everyone's race-ready weight (minus wheels and tires) for comparison, especially those running the shorty packs.
-rocky b
I'm loving the car so far, way nicer to work on and drive than my previous buggy. Much more forgiving as well, especially on awkward landings...which I seem to have a lot of. Carpet racers can't jump
Running Randy's setup with a few small changes, and I'd like to know everyone's race-ready weight (minus wheels and tires) for comparison, especially those running the shorty packs. -rocky b
11-03-2011, 11:56 PM
#1530
Thanks for the replies. I have been enlightened. I took a 2 year leave of absence from the sport. I did not know Losi and others also experienced the same shortage of parts.
I purchased a b44.1 and found the same frustration I experienced with the b44 2 years ago. Broken arms and shock shafts, etc. I also learned 2wd is more popular at my track right now. As a result I want to sell my b44.1 while it is still fresh and purchase a dex210. Thus the reason for my frustration. Thanks for the info. I will continue to wait patiently.
Ps. Last night while club racing at SRS I watched Billy Fisher race the 210. The buggy looks very smooth and appears to be a good performer. He came in second behind Maifield in the main.
I purchased a b44.1 and found the same frustration I experienced with the b44 2 years ago. Broken arms and shock shafts, etc. I also learned 2wd is more popular at my track right now. As a result I want to sell my b44.1 while it is still fresh and purchase a dex210. Thus the reason for my frustration. Thanks for the info. I will continue to wait patiently.
Ps. Last night while club racing at SRS I watched Billy Fisher race the 210. The buggy looks very smooth and appears to be a good performer. He came in second behind Maifield in the main.