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Old 10-19-2011, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
Out of stock now...
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:19 AM
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So Im about 3/4 done with the roller build. I only have turn buckles and shocks to go, and so far there are a few interesting issues with the car.

1. Let me start off by saying that the car looks pretty amazing so far.

2. Do NOT accidentally put the shorter turnblock hingepins on the inside of the front Arms... they sink right down to the bottom and they don't come out

3. I had numerous missing screws, but durango re-opened the box, included an extra screws bag, and resealed the box. Ultimately I ended up having everything.

4. None of the buttonhead screws that go down around the battery compartment, bit into the plastic. They JUST START TO.... and then they just spin. These guys needed to be probably 2mm longer

5. Had some quality control issues with the large side pieces that bolt on around the servo, that finish up the side pods. They sort of "lego" around a piece that is already screwed down onto the chassis, and they were off by about 1mm.. took some muscling to get them into place.

6. I think I spent as much time getting the spur/slipper assembly together as the entire rest of the car

7. Working on the gearbox/rear end of the car seems like it's going to be a bit of a task

8. And last but not least... the ONE thing I am actually concerned with about this car... is it just me, or does it appear that your entire racing night would be over if you break a rear ball stud on the inside? There isn't a modular piece to replace, so if you snap a ball stud and you can't get it out... you need an entirely new gearbox? (or maybe you can drill it out?) The engineering around the car is AMAZING... but this seems like an equally amazing oversight. Just me or am I missing something? This might be a good spot to put a couple of titanium ball studs.


Shocks and electronics, tomorrow.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
how long does it take to build the car? mines coming thrusday and i want to race friday. i won't be able to start until around 7pm thrusday evening. is it possible for me to race? probably not...
Can you work through the night with no sleep?

I spent roughly 10 hours building the car from start to finish. That does include having to disassemble the trans once after putting the diff in backwards (at 3am, right before I called it a night) and disassembling the front turnbuckles and counterboring the end of the ballcups a bit so that they do not rub the non-threaded section of the turnbuckle- even with some grease they were a bit tight and didn't want to adjust very easily. I also spent about 2 hours on wiring, but the wires on the sxx esc needed to be replaced so that added some time.

If you can get someone to help you, maybe build the shocks and turnbuckles, you could do it but it would likely still be a late night.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
That does include having to disassemble the trans once after putting the diff in backwards
I not 100% positive I got my diff in the right way either... it's kind of a guess, as the manual doesn't really say (or did I miss it?)
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:49 AM
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My Fedex tracking # was updated and now my car is scheduled for delivery today instead of tomorrow, kinda like an early christmas
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I not 100% positive I got my diff in the right way either... it's kind of a guess, as the manual doesn't really say (or did I miss it?)
If you look at pg 15-16 of the assembled gearbox pictures, it looks like the adjustment screw head is on the right side for rear motor and left side for mid motor. That's the only reference of any type that I could find.
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
8. And last but not least... the ONE thing I am actually concerned with about this car... is it just me, or does it appear that your entire racing night would be over if you break a rear ball stud on the inside? There isn't a modular piece to replace, so if you snap a ball stud and you can't get it out... you need an entirely new gearbox? (or maybe you can drill it out?) The engineering around the car is AMAZING... but this seems like an equally amazing oversight. Just me or am I missing something? This might be a good spot to put a couple of titanium ball studs.
I totally agree, however where can you get Ti ball studs for this car?
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
So Im about 3/4 done with the roller build. I only have turn buckles and shocks to go, and so far there are a few interesting issues with the car.

1. Let me start off by saying that the car looks pretty amazing so far.

2. Do NOT accidentally put the shorter turnblock hingepins on the inside of the front Arms... they sink right down to the bottom and they don't come out

3. I had numerous missing screws, but durango re-opened the box, included an extra screws bag, and resealed the box. Ultimately I ended up having everything.

4. None of the buttonhead screws that go down around the battery compartment, bit into the plastic. They JUST START TO.... and then they just spin. These guys needed to be probably 2mm longer

5. Had some quality control issues with the large side pieces that bolt on around the servo, that finish up the side pods. They sort of "lego" around a piece that is already screwed down onto the chassis, and they were off by about 1mm.. took some muscling to get them into place.

6. I think I spent as much time getting the spur/slipper assembly together as the entire rest of the car

7. Working on the gearbox/rear end of the car seems like it's going to be a bit of a task

8. And last but not least... the ONE thing I am actually concerned with about this car... is it just me, or does it appear that your entire racing night would be over if you break a rear ball stud on the inside? There isn't a modular piece to replace, so if you snap a ball stud and you can't get it out... you need an entirely new gearbox? (or maybe you can drill it out?) The engineering around the car is AMAZING... but this seems like an equally amazing oversight. Just me or am I missing something? This might be a good spot to put a couple of titanium ball studs.


Shocks and electronics, tomorrow.

I had some of the same issues. I didnt like the way the screws didnt engage around the battery compartment either so I went to 12mm and 16mm length screws and they were all tight then.

I had the same problem with the servo mount pieces too. They took a little force to get them in but it all fits nice once together.

The 4 ballstuds in my A bag were a different color than the rest and I split 2 of them just threading them in. I replaced the 4 with new ones that were a little shorter for the DESC and they went great.

I also really didnt like the inner camber links being molded into the tranny. It just doesnt really make sense to have to get a new tranny case if break a ball stud.

It took me 4 1/2 hours to build mine without motor and ESC. I will have another 3 hours in painting the body though. LOL. Its a painter nightmare with all those bends and narrow channels!
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by KainK View Post
I had some of the same issues. I didnt like the way the screws didnt engage around the battery compartment either so I went to 12mm and 16mm length screws and they were all tight then.

I had the same problem with the servo mount pieces too. They took a little force to get them in but it all fits nice once together.

The 4 ballstuds in my A bag were a different color than the rest and I split 2 of them just threading them in. I replaced the 4 with new ones that were a little shorter for the DESC and they went great.

I also really didnt like the inner camber links being molded into the tranny. It just doesnt really make sense to have to get a new tranny case if break a ball stud.

It took me 4 1/2 hours to build mine without motor and ESC. I will have another 3 hours in painting the body though. LOL. Its a painter nightmare with all those bends and narrow channels!
Are you refering to the brace that screws into the chassis?
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I not 100% positive I got my diff in the right way either... it's kind of a guess, as the manual doesn't really say (or did I miss it?)
For 3 gear rear-motor configuration the adjustment screw goes to the motor plate side, just like any other standard configuration car.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:19 AM
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Just got the turnbuckles and shocks left on mine too but yeah, all the screws that go into the chassis for the battery surround are way too short (only one spun though lucky) and still not sure what to think about the snap ring that holds the thrust in...kinda weird??? But other than that, tranny/diff feels smooth and everything else seems to go together pretty good?

I hope someone makes smaller spurs soon!!
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:22 AM
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It seems to get 2mm longer screws for the button head screws that go through the brace into the chassis.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:23 AM
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RW Racing already do I've already got a RW 87 fitted. 83/85/87 Neil did the 83 & 85 for a Durango when one of his drivers ran it. Neil can do other sizes if you contact him.

www.rwracing.co.uk [email protected]

http://www.m-k-racing.com/advanced_s...rds=rw+durango

Not sure who his distro / stockist in the US is
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by KainK View Post
I had some of the same issues. I didnt like the way the screws didnt engage around the battery compartment either so I went to 12mm and 16mm length screws and they were all tight then.

I had the same problem with the servo mount pieces too. They took a little force to get them in but it all fits nice once together.

The 4 ballstuds in my A bag were a different color than the rest and I split 2 of them just threading them in. I replaced the 4 with new ones that were a little shorter for the DESC and they went great.

I also really didnt like the inner camber links being molded into the tranny. It just doesnt really make sense to have to get a new tranny case if break a ball stud.

It took me 4 1/2 hours to build mine without motor and ESC. I will have another 3 hours in painting the body though. LOL. Its a painter nightmare with all those bends and narrow channels!
You gotta bring that buggy down and race with us man. Let me lnow when you're ready- we just bought a house and have plenty of space for a few guests so you won't have hotel costs.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:48 AM
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There's a couple setups from Billy Fischer on the Durango site now. One with 3 gear transmission and one with 4 gear, both rear motor.
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