F201
#1157
Is anyone else excited that Formula1 will be starting soon?
#1158
So does that mean the F1 party is at Neil's?
#1159
Something i found during extensive testing about the clear plate.
On Carpet, leave it on and screw it to the arms. Give it a lot of steer.
On pavement (asphalt), if the track is smooth, leave the plate on but don't screw it to the arms. Gives the car less steer.
If the track is bumpy then remove it.
The reason for leaving the plate on is that it acts as sort of an droop control. This way you can get more preload on the front springs without getting a rideheight of 15mm.
My 2 cents
On Carpet, leave it on and screw it to the arms. Give it a lot of steer.
On pavement (asphalt), if the track is smooth, leave the plate on but don't screw it to the arms. Gives the car less steer.
If the track is bumpy then remove it.
The reason for leaving the plate on is that it acts as sort of an droop control. This way you can get more preload on the front springs without getting a rideheight of 15mm.
My 2 cents
#1160
Originally posted by Hardriven RC
Something i found during extensive testing about the clear plate.
On Carpet, leave it on and screw it to the arms. Give it a lot of steer.
On pavement (asphalt), if the track is smooth, leave the plate on but don't screw it to the arms. Gives the car less steer.
If the track is bumpy then remove it.
The reason for leaving the plate on is that it acts as sort of an droop control. This way you can get more preload on the front springs without getting a rideheight of 15mm.
My 2 cents
Something i found during extensive testing about the clear plate.
On Carpet, leave it on and screw it to the arms. Give it a lot of steer.
On pavement (asphalt), if the track is smooth, leave the plate on but don't screw it to the arms. Gives the car less steer.
If the track is bumpy then remove it.
The reason for leaving the plate on is that it acts as sort of an droop control. This way you can get more preload on the front springs without getting a rideheight of 15mm.
My 2 cents
#1161
We go by European TCS rules. Basicely this means that we can only use Tamiya parts. The F201 i use has every hop-up availeble. I use the speedgearing every now and then when i drive on a large circuit and depending on wich motor i use.
Oh yeah, I won the first TCS race we did this year, so i must be doing something right. This is offcours in Belgium so that may not be saying much
Did lap everyone tough.
Regards
Oh yeah, I won the first TCS race we did this year, so i must be doing something right. This is offcours in Belgium so that may not be saying much
Did lap everyone tough.
Regards
#1163
try mounting it, and screwing the screws only part way in, (adjustable down stops).
#1164
Ritchie,
If you do that then the arms are more prone to break. I don't know why this is, but the only arms i broke so far where when i did what you are suggesting.
Regards
If you do that then the arms are more prone to break. I don't know why this is, but the only arms i broke so far where when i did what you are suggesting.
Regards
#1165
Question about F201 Setup & Motor Timing
Hi,
I've a F201 Chassis with most of the Tamiya Hop Ups. I used the setting from Dave Jun posted on the Tamiya USA site. When I adjust my suspension rod length the way described in this article, my car barely gets its a** from the street (meaning: low ground clearance). Can anyone confirm this?
Another question: Motor is an Tamiya Acto Power Blue. Does anyone know the best timing for this motor?
Thanx
Hemi
Germany
I've a F201 Chassis with most of the Tamiya Hop Ups. I used the setting from Dave Jun posted on the Tamiya USA site. When I adjust my suspension rod length the way described in this article, my car barely gets its a** from the street (meaning: low ground clearance). Can anyone confirm this?
Another question: Motor is an Tamiya Acto Power Blue. Does anyone know the best timing for this motor?
Thanx
Hemi
Germany
#1166
Re: Question about F201 Setup & Motor Timing
hemi426
Sounds like your track width is not the same as Jun's.
I'm not familiar with that motor, but if you start with 24 degrees of timing, you should get a good feel for what it can do.
Sounds like your track width is not the same as Jun's.
I'm not familiar with that motor, but if you start with 24 degrees of timing, you should get a good feel for what it can do.
#1167
Don't advance the timing of the motor beyond 10° because it will lose all torque.
Hemi, at what track in Germany do you drive? btw Sounds like your ride height should go up to 5 mm in front and 6 mm in the back.
Regards
Hemi, at what track in Germany do you drive? btw Sounds like your ride height should go up to 5 mm in front and 6 mm in the back.
Regards
#1168
Re: Question about F201 Setup & Motor Timing
Originally posted by hemi426
I used the setting from Dave Jun posted on the Tamiya USA site. When I adjust my suspension rod length the way described in this article, my car barely gets its a** from the street (meaning: low ground clearance). Can anyone confirm this?
I used the setting from Dave Jun posted on the Tamiya USA site. When I adjust my suspension rod length the way described in this article, my car barely gets its a** from the street (meaning: low ground clearance). Can anyone confirm this?
#1169
Originally posted by Hardriven RC
If you do that then the arms are more prone to break. I don't know why this is, but the only arms i broke so far where when i did what you are suggesting.
If you do that then the arms are more prone to break. I don't know why this is, but the only arms i broke so far where when i did what you are suggesting.
#1170
Hi and thanks for all the input. I already have more preload than mentioned in the setting sheet. Now I increased the length of the rear suspension rods by 1.5mm and it looks better. I will also adjust the length of the front rods (+1mm)
I was just curious how someone can achieve a ride height of 4mm front and 3.5mm rear with these settings:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/...f201setup.html
24 degrees of motor timing also seems to much for me, since the acto blue only has a 10 degrees scale painted on the housing and I thought timing adjustment should be in this range (0-10°).
Hemi
I was just curious how someone can achieve a ride height of 4mm front and 3.5mm rear with these settings:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/...f201setup.html
24 degrees of motor timing also seems to much for me, since the acto blue only has a 10 degrees scale painted on the housing and I thought timing adjustment should be in this range (0-10°).
Hemi