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Old 05-05-2007, 08:25 AM
  #3691  
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Originally Posted by duckman996
What about Corally springs... they may work as well. Not that I have any laying around anymore- but they too are short - however expensive compared to the Losi ones.
thats what im running on mine ,Corally springs fit almost perfect
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Old 05-05-2007, 09:45 AM
  #3692  
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just finished my car so im ready to go to the track and try it out i'll let everybody know what i think tonight
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Old 05-05-2007, 12:00 PM
  #3693  
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Originally Posted by ERTRACHTER
just finished my car so im ready to go to the track and try it out i'll let everybody know what i think tonight

Good Luck with it E.!!!!!

Brant
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Old 05-05-2007, 02:15 PM
  #3694  
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Congrats Jason! See ya at Reedy

Keoni
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Old 05-05-2007, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by KMR
Congrats Jason! See ya at Reedy

Keoni

HEY!!!! Keoni!!!! How are you and Larry doin??!! Don't forget! Its hot outside so take some water on those bike rides man!!!! LMAO

Brant
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Old 05-05-2007, 05:17 PM
  #3696  
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i switched to brushless today, a gtb + 10.5 ss pro. i'm hooked holy torque from hell batman !

i still drove like a tool today though, had a few taps on the boards, but nothing broke.
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Old 05-05-2007, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ERTRACHTER
just finished my car so im ready to go to the track and try it out i'll let everybody know what i think tonight
I will be real interested to see what you think and also interested on what you do for setup on it. Let's us know Jason!!
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Old 05-06-2007, 02:11 AM
  #3698  
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Originally Posted by ERTRACHTER
just finished my car so im ready to go to the track and try it out i'll let everybody know what i think tonight
sent you an email dude.

alan and jay were out today. their cars are looking good.
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Old 05-06-2007, 07:00 AM
  #3699  
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Default Tweak Problem

Alright I have been trying to resolve this myself but I am now turning to the people who actually have some more ideas on this.

I have done all the normal steps to remove the tweak. Hold down flat on chassis ect...

But I have a small tweak and it seems to be coming either from the 2 bottom screws next to the battery tray on the rear bulkheads or from when I tighten up the rear shock tower. Needless to say I am really confused and would love some more input on this. I did countersink the 2 screws on the bottom of the chassis next to the battery tray, as they were sticking down below the chassis a bit.

Thanks,
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Old 05-06-2007, 07:43 AM
  #3700  
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Default Sad too do this...

Right guys, I hate to do this, but a recent change in my personal situation means I need cash. So I'm having to pare down my racing gear, and that means selling a few cars.

So.. My Type-R is now for sale
Car has been used twice (both outdoors) in stock only.

Comes with;
Full spring set (10.5 - 30 lb)
2x 1° Aluminium toe block's
Full set of anti-roll bars
Front Spool
Spare set of arms
Spare set of 4° castor blocks and steering hubs
Spare front and rear belts
Mazda Speed6 bodyshell

$350 all-in... plus shipping

Regards
Ed
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Old 05-06-2007, 09:56 AM
  #3701  
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Originally Posted by CRASH
Alright I have been trying to resolve this myself but I am now turning to the people who actually have some more ideas on this.

I have done all the normal steps to remove the tweak. Hold down flat on chassis ect...

But I have a small tweak and it seems to be coming either from the 2 bottom screws next to the battery tray on the rear bulkheads or from when I tighten up the rear shock tower. Needless to say I am really confused and would love some more input on this. I did countersink the 2 screws on the bottom of the chassis next to the battery tray, as they were sticking down below the chassis a bit.

Thanks,
i was getting some tweak in my chassis, but it was from the countersunk screws in the top deck. i put large finishing washers and slightly longer screws at those 4 places and now i can get the chassis flat. next time i have the top deck off, i might flip it over and use regular button head screws.

as for the two screws near the battery tray, the holes aren't countersunk very deep and i think that's because they are so close to the edge of the chassis right there. i went with smaller head stainless steel screws right there and it seems to be fine.
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Old 05-06-2007, 11:05 AM
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I always use stainless screws for the heads seem to be smaller then the regular kit steel ones. I know they work way better on the bottom of the chassis so you have no screw heads stickin out at all. Plus they are just cheap as hell from McMaster Carr for a box of a 100.
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Old 05-06-2007, 02:50 PM
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Well my first time with the type R went very well today, I was really impressed with the car, i ran almost the stock set-up for asphalt but minor changes but it was great!! Very fast (with the novak 3.5 ) the front bumper worked very well!!! no broken arms at all (all day) even when i ran 2 battery packs in practice with atleast 6 nitro cars on the track. Did a few other changes to the car but got rained out. Thanks to P-dub for the set up tips!!!.

Thinking of maybe picking up a second car to run 19T and stock leave the other one for mod
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Old 05-06-2007, 03:16 PM
  #3704  
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Originally Posted by CRASH
Alright I have been trying to resolve this myself but I am now turning to the people who actually have some more ideas on this.

I have done all the normal steps to remove the tweak. Hold down flat on chassis ect...

But I have a small tweak and it seems to be coming either from the 2 bottom screws next to the battery tray on the rear bulkheads or from when I tighten up the rear shock tower. Needless to say I am really confused and would love some more input on this. I did countersink the 2 screws on the bottom of the chassis next to the battery tray, as they were sticking down below the chassis a bit.

Thanks,
Be sure your servo is not causing this, my buddy had his servo so it was putting pressure on the bulkhead and not letting the upper deck sit right...he needed the shims in there to make it sit properly.
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Old 05-06-2007, 04:42 PM
  #3705  
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Marcos, it seems like you've had or have a LOT of touring cars. You should do some reviews and comparisons in a new thread here on rctech.
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