BILKO1

Thanks Tony i thought you guys ran brushless minis down under.

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Hi Guys

Been having some success with my M05 indoors on carpet, but just changed to running brushless 13.5 with my tekin esc. Got it set up great - excellent top speed and good pull out of the corners with the tamiya m05 diff done up real tight but it finally gave up tonight and came undone, is this a common problem? If so is there a remedy? Whats the mini like to drive with a spool in it in place of the diff? does it chew uj's?

In the old days we used to remove the diff balls in the diff and replace the diff rings with sandpaper to create a spool that would just slip a little - anyone tried this?

Sorry for all the questions but i'm just getting on a par with the Mardave and it would be graet to beat them just once with the tamiya!

Thanks in advance for any advice give

Paul

rcnutbag

I think you'll find a lot of people here will poo-poo the M05 diff. My TA03 diff has never let go or given me grief. I (carefully) put a drop of loctite on the thread and that's it. You can get grades of loctite that go up to 'permanent', so if you want to stick with your current diff then maybe that's an option?

Also, I changed over my diff balls to the ceramic variety and with the AW grease and done up as far as the thread allows (but only 'snicked' to the end), it's almost like a spool. I actually have to back it off a little.

And yes, frrom what I've seen, it will chew UJ's.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

Full Hobbywing systems...not 17.5 normal ones.

Cheaper to buy, and the best thing we ever did for Mini racing.

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

ta03 ball diff is more reliable, try removing one of the washer to try different settings.

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Thanks very much for the advice guys - I have a ta03 ball diff on order. Does it fit straight in?

rcnutbag

Yep, straight in, just remember the gear (of the diff unit) goes on the RHS of the chassis. And don't forget the hardened BALL DIFF output shafts (53217). Refer rc-mini for any extra info.....

Bosscat

OK some advise please. Ran my M05 for ages on the standard tamiya pinion but eventually the teeth hooked and it gave up. Put in a new .6 module pinion plus a new gear train and the primary gear the one the pinion meshes with lasted just 3 races when I removed it several of the teeth on just one part of the gear had collapsed and burred over. So did I do something wrong?? What do you guys use for lube on the gear train? Dont think the prob was lack of lube but maybe the wrong type??

jmhub1979

iTrader: (1)

I just got a hobbywing brushless esc/motor. I wired it up and everything. when i try and calibrate it nothing happens. When I turn the wheel it does nothing. I"m thinking my receiver is the issue. That my cheap futaba AM radio doesn't like the brushless set up. Is this the problem. If it is, best solution? I hope I don't have to buy a new radio.

axle182

iTrader: (18)

My advice, run nothing but Tamiya in the gearbox. With a fresh set of gears and a new 20t it should run for a decent amount of time without a hassle. For the price, i usually have 2-3 brand new 20t tamiya pinions in my box, and swap them out before they destroy the gearset. As for lube, i used to use silicon spray, but now i dont even bother. I use nothing in the gearbox, the gearsets cost $7-8 and the pinions about the same. Any decent lube will make your gearsets last longer, but we run silvercans, and thick lube will create drag.

Butler205

Hello All,

Been lurking on the site for ages, since page 500 or so, but only really following the mini stuff as I race an M03. Decided it was time to get involved

Robinson racing hard .6 pinion is what I use. Tamiya do a hardened pinion also. With either of those I doubt you will ever change any gears again. I used a spray of silicon lube about 2 years ago and have not needed to touch the gearbox since. I have run this car with silver can, superstock RZ, hobbywing 4300kV, and now back to silver for racing rules.

Ta,

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

Anyone painted the Fiat Abarth body yet?

p-Lo

iTrader: (1)

Here's mine

rcnutbag

Check all your connections again, esp the one from the ESC to the reciever (polarity and signal wire correct?). If this is wrong it won't power the steering servo either.

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

This body is re-release, yeehaw