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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 12-30-2007, 06:12 PM
  #5731  
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how is droop adjusted on the car ?
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Old 12-30-2007, 06:30 PM
  #5732  
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It changes depending on the amount of internal spacers that you use on the shocks.
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Old 12-30-2007, 06:32 PM
  #5733  
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Originally Posted by rccardr
Takt- it's a rear droop problem. Don't change anything but droop- same springs, same oil, same piston. Wheel hop is generally caused by too little droop, but it's really a droop balance thing.
Thank you! Okay, droop always confuses me. To increase droop, I take out the internal o-ring under the shock piston? Thank you for the help!!
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Old 12-30-2007, 10:57 PM
  #5734  
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Hi all, noobie here need some help! Just got myself M-03 kit, hope to get some tips from all mini bros here..thks!

1) regarding the TA03 ball diff, while closing up the diff plate using the lock nut wrench, how tight should i turn it??

i noticed that if closed too tight, both the axles can't turn in opposite direction smoothly.. like got alot of resistance feel..

if close too loose, both axles spins freely without too much stress.. abit confused now.

2) which way should i place the ball diff? The side with the lock nut+plate should be at the 'FRONT WHEEL DRIVE' side? or the motor Heat sink side?

Need advice.
cheers.
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:17 PM
  #5735  
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Assemble the diff into the car with the nylon gear on the r/hand side..

How tight? Just tighten it right up - simple. Don't worry about how it feels - tight is right in this case. It'll be fine.
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:43 AM
  #5736  
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Originally Posted by tony gray
Assemble the diff into the car with the nylon gear on the r/hand side..

How tight? Just tighten it right up - simple. Don't worry about how it feels - tight is right in this case. It'll be fine.

So the nylon gear part is on the same side as the heat sink portion...looking down on chassis front end pointing north...

Alrighty.... Thanks for the fast reply tony! You're the man!

Happy adv NEW YEAR all !!!
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Old 12-31-2007, 01:05 AM
  #5737  
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Originally Posted by tony gray
Assemble the diff into the car with the nylon gear on the r/hand side..

How tight? Just tighten it right up - simple. Don't worry about how it feels - tight is right in this case. It'll be fine.
OVER tighted will damage the diff....I think the guy may have assy the diff wrong..he need to check again and make sure the cone washer is installed correct per instuction
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Old 12-31-2007, 01:30 AM
  #5738  
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I'm assuming that he's assembled it correctly...For his sake I hope so!

But if it's all correct then as tight as you can get it is the way to do those suckers. We do all our minis that way, have for years.
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Old 12-31-2007, 01:51 AM
  #5739  
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Thanks for th einfo ASW
Is the front droop critical in the setup for the mini ???
I have the ally shocks with no spacers inside, thinking it will lend towards more body roll.
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Old 12-31-2007, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by tony gray
I'm assuming that he's assembled it correctly...For his sake I hope so!

But if it's all correct then as tight as you can get it is the way to do those suckers. We do all our minis that way, have for years.
Nothing wrong about your ways but I like mine just enough so it don't slip...

Last edited by Goingfast; 12-31-2007 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 12-31-2007, 04:51 AM
  #5741  
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Originally Posted by razzor
Thanks for th einfo ASW
Is the front droop critical in the setup for the mini ???
I have the ally shocks with no spacers inside, thinking it will lend towards more body roll.
Trust me, you love mini cooper racing .

After longtime playing nitro racing, back to mini cooper racing is really relaxing.

Droop is important but not that critical. ( Mostly people have large amount of droop ). Low ride height is the key in M03.

I'm using TRF alluminium shocks. I put two o-rings inside the damper to shorten the shock length.

Preferably you should get the super mini shock You can run very low ride height but still has suspension action with super mini shock.

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Old 12-31-2007, 06:32 PM
  #5742  
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okay so I've just built my m03m kit, for a new class this year.

My question is, I appear to have positive camber on the front and rear. Is there anything that can be done to fix this?

I'm still using the friction shocks until my hopup shocks get here from tower.

everything else is bog stock.

Any help much appreciated.
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Old 12-31-2007, 06:56 PM
  #5743  
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Ash its because you're using the friction shocks at their standard length..

You need to drop that sucker down..

This'll show you how... Forget the black tubing inside the shock just use the spacers as shown to dump it. The black tubing does bugger all anyway.

As usual, it's on our site!....

Last edited by tony gray; 08-18-2008 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 12-31-2007, 07:03 PM
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Thanks tony, thats fantastic.

Your website is like watching a movie, everytime I look there I see something I didn't notice from the last time!

Cheers mate!
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Old 12-31-2007, 07:58 PM
  #5745  
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much better
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