Mugen MBX5R
#1081
Pic of it? maybe i'm just igornant(misspelled on purpose) but i can't visualize where the 2mm spacer should go.
#1082
Look at your steering uprights. Disconnect the steering linkage from the upright. The little metal ball still attached to the upright is the ball end. Remove it, place a 2mm spacer under the ball end so the ball end sits up 2mm from the upright then reinstall.
I should really see if I've got some spacers to try it.
I should really see if I've got some spacers to try it.
#1083
Tech Addict
iTrader: (20)
I tried this tip on mine today, and it helped a little, yet I only added about 1.5mm(used a cone washer for a 2mm screw). I think the the amount of toe out and castor also affect the amount of bumpsteer. Basically the two pillow balls and the steering link on the hub want to travel up and down in the same parallel plane. This topic was brought up in the MBX-6 thread, I don't recall if anything was done to the link at the ackerman as well.
#1084
1 washer under the upright ballstud and 2 washers under the ackerman ballstuds......
#1085
#1086
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Go here, third post down:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ht=mbx6&page=6
Thats a bit extreme, and you cannot use that large of a spacer with stock ball end, but you get the idea of what were talking about. The stock ballend can only take a 2mm spacer under it, or you will have to use a different ballend. I used the RC8 ballend with tierod since its longer than the Mugen stock ballend. Actually, the AE ballends come long and short, so you could go taller with the AE long ball end than a 2mm spacer under stock if needed. You need to adjust the height to your ride height and droop so you can keep the steering consistent from top to bottom of travel, as stock tends to toe out only when the suspension lowers, and toes in only when it travels up. This setup will toe out only slightly when the suspension is at the top and the bottom of travel, not just the bottom.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ht=mbx6&page=6
Thats a bit extreme, and you cannot use that large of a spacer with stock ball end, but you get the idea of what were talking about. The stock ballend can only take a 2mm spacer under it, or you will have to use a different ballend. I used the RC8 ballend with tierod since its longer than the Mugen stock ballend. Actually, the AE ballends come long and short, so you could go taller with the AE long ball end than a 2mm spacer under stock if needed. You need to adjust the height to your ride height and droop so you can keep the steering consistent from top to bottom of travel, as stock tends to toe out only when the suspension lowers, and toes in only when it travels up. This setup will toe out only slightly when the suspension is at the top and the bottom of travel, not just the bottom.
#1088
Iam tired of hearing about the RC8. I understand that its the new hot buggy to some. Lord knows half of the local club guys hear switched over to RC8 from there mugens but c'mon please enough already!! Ive been faithfull to Mugen Seiki for some time know and i treat my buggy like its gold and it pays me back in spades @ the track. Like last weekend i came in 123 all day and had great lap times smok'n the RC8 but everytime i go to neo or open a mag. BAM! there it is even my LH guy stated doggin the Mugen . Well enough ranting. I will always stay with Mugen and when the MBX6 kit is on my table its off to the tack to SMOKE some RC8
thanks
thanks
#1089
#1090
we got some more buggies in..
these are prolly the last ones till the new buggy.
http://www.rccompound.com/ProductDet...tCode=MUGE0040
these are prolly the last ones till the new buggy.
http://www.rccompound.com/ProductDet...tCode=MUGE0040
#1092
get the RC8 ones...
be sure to run the bare metal pads with those discs
be sure to run the bare metal pads with those discs
#1093
Tech Addict
iTrader: (43)
The only thing I changed on mine was the brake rorors to the Avid rorors and dont install the blue brake pads. And just like the previous posts about bump steer I used a couple of washers under the front upright pivot ball on the steering tie rods. I also use the truggy MBX5T ring and pinions front and rear with a 44t center gear and a 17t or 18t clutch bell. This really helps the car accelorate much faster with higher top speed.
Chuck
Chuck
#1094
there are only 2 places on each side to do this one by the tire the other on the ackerman arm. you know the parts on the cars steering that controls the steering of the front tires? there are 2 ball studs on each side one goes on the upright the other the ackerman arm (the aluminum arm connecting the steering cranks together? the two ball studs on the aluminum arm get 1 washer the ball studs by each tire get 2 . it lessens the angle of the steering links between the ackerman arm and the front tires.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/8986 -that is an r ackerman
this is the front upright
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/8980
i would take a picture but the way the washers sit in the ackerman YOU CANT SEE THEM and i am not taking the front end apart to show you something obvious LOL im too lazy!
try it it works! especially if you arent as lazy as me at 7 am
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/8986 -that is an r ackerman
this is the front upright
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/8980
i would take a picture but the way the washers sit in the ackerman YOU CANT SEE THEM and i am not taking the front end apart to show you something obvious LOL im too lazy!
try it it works! especially if you arent as lazy as me at 7 am
#1095
I don't know english very well.so i asked you a fhoto [kind enough]to be sure.i am not so big noob like you think...
never mind..thank you!
never mind..thank you!