What up?

iTrader: (14)

here is a good starting point that I think alot of people run.

the only thing different that I run is silver Springs in Front and Two washers on the rear bulkhead. every track is different but it will get you really close.

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...kside_2007.pdf

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Thanks for the quick reply. I had a 6.5L the past 3 races but you just can't lay that power down on this track.

Reck83

iTrader: (30)

Sup,

I would like to know what would be a good starting point for a brushless 17.5 T4. I'm bout to order from Amain, so I would like to see where to start. The track I'll be runnin at is an indoor hard packed track w/ a 80 ft or so straight. If anybody knows the track, it's SMAC track in St. Louis. If this helps as well the tire of choice is usually Double Ds or holeshots.

thanks

clay104

iTrader: (17)

Cant speak for all motors, but I ran a 17.5 LRP Vector in a T4 at smac and B&L and I liked 28/84, or 26/78 they both come out to the same ratio, depend on what gears you have, I also ran a 17.5 speed passion motor and it like alot more gearing 31/78! but 28/84 for most is a good start I think, but Im also a nitro racer most of the time

Jube

iTrader: (43)

Most everything Ive read about gearing the 17.5's is that people are gearing to the freekin moon! Ive seen people saying 33,34/78 dunno personally tho just seen it several times posted.

clamber

iTrader: (1)

My next stadium truck will be a T4!

ffejrobins30

iTrader: (1)

On my B4, I'm geared all the way up to 35/68 with a slipper eliminator. My motor temps only get to 98* after a 5 minute run and 102* after 7 minutes. The problem is trying to find another smaller spur that's still the right pitch.

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

speedtech sells down to a 66t 48p spur gear. Will work with the turbo hub for sure.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...nid=392&id=957

burris7555

iTrader: (61)

Thanks Josh. I will give it a shot...

dmatter

iTrader: (2)

This is correct. Take the spacers out and measure them they are 3.20mm when new and knock them down to 2.90mm. Not as much presuure/squeezing of the O-Rings. Shocks work Better and seals last longer. Use very flat surface and TAKE YOR TIME. It's worth it.


Dax

Wild Cherry

The reason the seals pop out is because of a
mistake made in production .
They were suppose dip the shock in the coating then and then let it dry by standing the shock on its top .
Instead they stood the body upright, bottom down when drying the coating ...

The excess coating pooled inside where the seals go ...

Wes Briscoe

iTrader: (7)

That's a good setup...but not really lipo specific. That setup has a 16 oz Orion NIMH pack in it... It's still a good baseline setup though.

Has anyone experimented with a no ballast lipo setup with the T4 like what Cherry posted for the B4?

Kings Kid

iTrader: (35)

some of us are running weight under the battery within the tray. We weight the battery and add the difference.With the above mentioned setup this does very well.

burris7555

iTrader: (61)

That's more of what I was wanting to know my self...

carbon madness

iTrader: (2)

Just to add a little, you can do that and it is the safe way of doing things. Or if you are like me, I just add the weight (1.5oz) to the rear and go race. The biggest thing is that it is more of a feel thing, but normaly if you add weight it will be a little easier to drive the car.