RC10B4/T4 Forum
#6241
The MIP rings create a lot of friction. A couple guys at my track tried them a few years ago and all had to drop 5w on their shock oils.
#6242
#6244
Tech Master
Set-up question:
I'm running the B4 on a VERY loose dusty track, primarily for 1/8th cars.
I have the set-up going pretty good, and i'm learning every time I get out there, but i'm struggling a bit with it swapping ends when I enter a turn off-power.
Any ideas on how to reduce this?
I've made it heavy as a tank as the track is quite rutted, with weight on top of the battery strap and also on the steering servo. That made a massive difference in keeping it's feet on the ground in the long back straight and sweeper.
I'm not worried about it being heavy, as i'd rather sacrifice speed for handling while i'm learning.
I'm running the B4 on a VERY loose dusty track, primarily for 1/8th cars.
I have the set-up going pretty good, and i'm learning every time I get out there, but i'm struggling a bit with it swapping ends when I enter a turn off-power.
Any ideas on how to reduce this?
I've made it heavy as a tank as the track is quite rutted, with weight on top of the battery strap and also on the steering servo. That made a massive difference in keeping it's feet on the ground in the long back straight and sweeper.
I'm not worried about it being heavy, as i'd rather sacrifice speed for handling while i'm learning.
#6245
Tech Addict
iTrader: (9)
Stand up your front shocks, increase the weight of oil in your front shocks, and/or goto stiffer front springs. Other options, add limiters to your rear shocks to reduce droop. Decrease brakes on your ESC.
Honestly, I must say, run the car at racing weight. Add the 1.5 Ozs to the rear as shown earlier in many pics on this thread and add just enough to make u legal if you're running Lipo and it's needed.
Having all that extra weight is leading to extra weight being transferred, which is making the problem worse.
If u can provide your current setup, it may help with more setup options.
Honestly, I must say, run the car at racing weight. Add the 1.5 Ozs to the rear as shown earlier in many pics on this thread and add just enough to make u legal if you're running Lipo and it's needed.
Having all that extra weight is leading to extra weight being transferred, which is making the problem worse.
If u can provide your current setup, it may help with more setup options.
#6246
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
hey guys. im going to be buying a b4 pretty soon. and its a team kit. whats that difference between the three? (b4rs,b4tk,b4ft)
here is a link to it.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=460309
i plan on buying a gtb/17.5ss for stock class racing
thanks
brian
here is a link to it.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=460309
i plan on buying a gtb/17.5ss for stock class racing
thanks
brian
#6247
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
hey guys. im going to be buying a b4 pretty soon. and its a team kit. whats that difference between the three? (b4rs,b4tk,b4ft)
here is a link to it.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=460309
i plan on buying a gtb/17.5ss for stock class racing
thanks
brian
here is a link to it.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=460309
i plan on buying a gtb/17.5ss for stock class racing
thanks
brian
http://www.teamassociated.com/ae/b4/b4_home.htm
#6248
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
SLO, this page breaks down the three versions for you:
http://www.teamassociated.com/ae/b4/b4_home.htm
http://www.teamassociated.com/ae/b4/b4_home.htm
#6249
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
I have been using the MIP Blue O-Rings and they hold up 10 times better then the AE red ones. I have also heard they have a little less friction but that is very hard to tell.
The problem is I have only found them at my LHS. If anybody knows where to find them that would be great?
The problem is I have only found them at my LHS. If anybody knows where to find them that would be great?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX28
The description's description of the outer diameter is way off...
#6251
Tech Champion
iTrader: (53)
The VCS2 caps work awesome... just dont use any foam under the bladder as it needs to flex.
RB5 - bladders make every shock smoother.. AE and Losi are the last people in existence to not switch over still. I ran my B4 for 3 weeks with them.. just rebuilt my shocks saturday and the oil was clear and there still wasnt any air in them.
RB5 - bladders make every shock smoother.. AE and Losi are the last people in existence to not switch over still. I ran my B4 for 3 weeks with them.. just rebuilt my shocks saturday and the oil was clear and there still wasnt any air in them.
#6252
B4 converted to on road sprint
I'm converting one of my B-4's to a on road sprint and want to change the camber blocks on the front end to stand up straight and allow more tire contact on pavement. The existing blocks angle the wheels over for digging into dirt. My question is: What degree of blocks should I get ? I can't seem to find much research data on this. Thanks.
#6253
Set-up question:
I'm running the B4 on a VERY loose dusty track, primarily for 1/8th cars.
I have the set-up going pretty good, and i'm learning every time I get out there, but i'm struggling a bit with it swapping ends when I enter a turn off-power.
Any ideas on how to reduce this?
I've made it heavy as a tank as the track is quite rutted, with weight on top of the battery strap and also on the steering servo. That made a massive difference in keeping it's feet on the ground in the long back straight and sweeper.
I'm not worried about it being heavy, as i'd rather sacrifice speed for handling while i'm learning.
I'm running the B4 on a VERY loose dusty track, primarily for 1/8th cars.
I have the set-up going pretty good, and i'm learning every time I get out there, but i'm struggling a bit with it swapping ends when I enter a turn off-power.
Any ideas on how to reduce this?
I've made it heavy as a tank as the track is quite rutted, with weight on top of the battery strap and also on the steering servo. That made a massive difference in keeping it's feet on the ground in the long back straight and sweeper.
I'm not worried about it being heavy, as i'd rather sacrifice speed for handling while i'm learning.
A basic setting to check.. Too much drag brake or brake in general will spin'er around.
#6254
Hope you guy`s using the shock bladder`s realise you increase the pack quite a bit and need to adjust oil (lighter) & piston(bigger) to get the same results as using no bladders....
The extra pack you get using bladder`s with no other change is taking traction away and delivers less body roll, bumps will be ruffer as well...
The extra pack you get using bladder`s with no other change is taking traction away and delivers less body roll, bumps will be ruffer as well...
#6255
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Hope you guy`s using the shock bladder`s realise you increase the pack quite a bit and need to adjust oil (lighter) & piston(bigger) to get the same results as using no bladders....
The extra pack you get using bladder`s with no other change is taking traction away and delivers less body roll, bumps will be ruffer as well...
The extra pack you get using bladder`s with no other change is taking traction away and delivers less body roll, bumps will be ruffer as well...