Z00M

iTrader: (15)

I use three to thee and a quarter turns as I run on a large track.

Quote:

(2) Front shock damper is always #3, oil is 70 stock and red springs...what about you guys?

#3 and 50wt Purple springs

Quote:

(3) Rear shock damper is always #3, oil is 70 stock and red springs...what about you guys?

#3 and 50wt with red/copper springs

Quote:

(4) Rear camber link is the one on the top...? Does the middle one give better handling...?

Middle hole.

Quote:

(5) Tires are always 40/40....does ppl have better result with 37 Rear and 40 Front..?

42 front rear or 40 front rear

Quote:

Yes, this is for the FT front 1-way rear ball diff setting........thank you.

ZipZap

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem with the Kawahara. It only ate the gears in the one-way, not the rear diff, so I guessed that it must be the snap created by the centax when it was set too tight. The rear diff was allowing enough slip to save the gears. Loosening the centax helped a lot. It was trial and error to get max punch out of the corners, while allowing the one-way gears to survive.

FFR3582

Zoom- no problem,

On the loose rear end you may try more rear toe-in, you can go to far and increase rear tire wear and cause the car to slow down in the corners ( it won't roll free) I used to see this when racing 235mm Seprent Impacts in 2wd. The car just slows way down in the corners it will stick like glue but won't carry as much speed through the turn.


Or try some different dampening and spring rates.



On the Issue of Car Action it is the fall touring car issue.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Zoom.........thanks for the info, will give that a try this Sunday...

Rookie01

Remove the rear swaybar if you have it. It may help.

JDMboy

hello fellow NTC3 owners!

just getting my NTC3 all set up here and i have some questions with my servo set up...

i upgraded my top plate to the K-Factory carbonfiber and i just purchased the

KO-PROPO PS-2173 Hi-Speed for my steering
KO-PROPO PS-2174 Hi-Torque for my throttle/brake

I hear that it's not good to have the servos make contact with the chassis especially on nitro cars wich havbe alot of vibration and chances of glitches can happen.

well i added the thicker spacer and rubber graumets on the throttle/brake servo and it is still really close to the chassis.
tried sliding a piece of paper to check clearance and its really close.
the paper goes in kind of snug.

in the AE instruction manual when using the stock plate it says that not to use the spacer when using that servo.
since i have the K-Factory part i had to add the #2238 spacer and use the rubber graumets that came with the servo to equal out the height of the stock plate.

Well the main question is should i add a thin spacer on top of the thicker one to raise it up a lil more but my concern is should i raise up the brake cam lever aswell as the throttle linkage part on my motor to even it out?

will there be an effect on the center of gravity for the cars handling

the steering servo sits kinda the same but cant do much there cause can't raise it but it does not make full contact just pretty close

if u guys have seen the TOURING CAR issue with all the sedan testing they used the KO-PROPO digital servo's wich are the same size LxWxH all around as the ones i got so i wonder if its an issue.

any input would be great

thanx

Solara

iTrader: (17)

No contact (metal to metal) is always better then contact........so if you can raise the servo away from the metal chassis, that will help....

However, both of my servo are touch or ON the chassis since the first day I got the car 2.5 years ago............never had 1 single glitch whatsoever, and I am using the 3PK PCM version with S9550 and 3010 cheapo......knock on wood.

JDMboy

Thanx for the info "Rookie Solara"

looks like your not having any problems so far "knock on wood"
hehehe
as far as vibration do you think it's a real big issue?
i'll probably try to raise it up a lil bit more with a thin spacer then.

vtl1180ny

Has anyone ever had any fuel tank issues? I had a good crash... Full speed, crack in pavemen, 5' of air under the car... It didn't make a good airplane...

Anyway.... Rebuilt everything that broke and now the car is a bitch to prime and keeps flaming out... Not too mention a lot of air bubbles in the fuel line, yes I replaced that...

JCB

There's a leak somewhere. Replace the fuel tank and fuel lines. I personally love the K-Factory fuel tank.

vtl1180ny

K-Factory stuff isn't easy to get around here, I know I have a whole bunch of their stuff on the car...

I wish AE would just make their tanks with a bottom pickup... I ended up replacing the tank in my MGT with a T-Maxx tank...

I'm going to try a spare T-Maxx tank on the car tonight when the ground finally dries up... Figure I'll just rubber band it to the handle...

JCB

Hey Buddy,

I found a couple of K-factory tanks for you. Hope this helps.

http://stores.ebay.com/Dinball_Asso-...isplayZ2QQtZkm

-JCB

revzalot

iTrader: (4)

I've noticed when the brakes are applied, the throttle servo goes a little haywire. Anyone have a fix on this?

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

A couple of possible ideas I can think of are:

1: Are the brake pads worn down so you have metal to metal contact when you apply the brakes?

2: When you apply the brakes, there is something loose that makes a metal to metal contact.

3: There is something loose in your servo or receiver that gets bounced around when you apply the brakes.

Let us know what you find.

Cheers,

Mike.

snemi00

iTrader: (4)

Not sure what radio you have but any chance you've got the ABS function turned on?