tommi

iTrader: (7)

Hi Esham, may I know if this is a custom mod or it's an option from Kyosho? I'm wondering how the captured rod end is gonna be held on to the bearing, mind to enlighten? Thanks!

AndyT ©

In the rear arm set (included with kit) theres optional rear inner camber links.
The bearings (you`ll need 2 for each side) mount into the optional part (the link then screws into the plastic of this new part) and then the mounting screw runs thru the middle of the bearing......it acts like a hinge for the inner mount to pivot on....seems like its a lot smoother than the ball link mount.
Cheers

Ivan Dickson

iTrader: (32)

Congrats soloartist, welcome to the RRR hood Hopefully I'll see you at one of local Cali tracks CP or Rev.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I just built a V-ONE RRR WC Edition car with a OS TZ .12 3-port engine w/slide carb. After going through two tanks of Nitro on the starter box, I tried to run the car, but the clutch was really late in engaging. A buddy of mine took a look at it and tried to adjust it (we even took the whole clutch assembly to verify that I built it right), but we couldn't the setting right. The engine is running rich and my friend did fuss with the idle speed adjustment.

Anybody have similar problems?
Got any suggestions?

Thanks!

BTW: The TZ is really tight at TDC, even after going through two tanks of fuel.

jeffreylin

It takes much more than 2 tanks to break in a motor. 10 tanks is more like it.

Your engine setting is too rich. This is fine as it is set for break in. But you should gradually lean it after say 5-6 tanks.

If you need to know how to break in your engine here is a good article you can read:

http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php

tommi

iTrader: (7)

Great! Thanks a lot Andy, appreciate your explaination. To be frank, I read your post yesterday night, it took me quite some time to get it figured out... Esham's attached pic helped... Coming back to it, can we get the bearings from Kyosho? I couldn't seem to get the part number for it... So besides the bearings and the optional link, are there any other parts that I should get to do this? A picture would've been a great help! Thanks in advance!

AndyT ©

It was kinda hard to figure out how to explain the way its done....
Each side of the car gets the new mount....the bearings go into these mounts....2 bearings are used for each side (so in total you need 4 bearings)....the bearings simply push straight into the plastic mount...this plastic assembly with the bearings inside then screws back onto the metal turnbuckle.....then the existing mounting screw is used to attach this whole new assembly to the existing attachment point.
I couldnt find a Kyosho genuine bearing size to fit, but had no problem getting the correct sized bearings from my LHS.
Let me know how you go, if you still have probs I`ll try and post a pic.
Cheers Andy

tommi

iTrader: (7)

Thanks again for the trouble Andy. I did a search, Kyosho does make those bearings for the Mini Inferno; GWS too has them for the helis.

B4

iTrader: (1)

Do you know if the the Kyosho bearings come in a pack of two. If it is one per pack that is to expensive.

tommi

iTrader: (7)

I had a hard time myself figuring that out too... It should come in a pack of 2, the 3x6x2.5 flanged bearings cost more and they come in a pack of 2 for 10 bucks. I'll be getting myself some GWS ones soon, no one runs the mini inferno over here, I reckon it will be close to impossible to get hold of the Kyosho ones.

jag

Besides the engine break-in, you probably have the preload nut in the clutch too tight. If you set it up per the manual (1.2mm) it's to much. Try loosening it to around .6mm. That's where I have mine and it works fine.

Don't rush the engine break-in.

tommi

iTrader: (7)

Hmm...isn't 0.6mm a little bit too..er...little? I've always find the stock 1.2mm to be fine, sometimes I would even go up to 1.25-1.3mm, and the clutch just never felt engaging too late.

rmdhawaii,
It could be the shimming too... Is the clutchbell moving excessively? If it is, it should not. Most importantly like what jefferylin and jag said, do not cut short the engine break-in process. A mere 2 tanks on the starterbox is NOT enough! My buddies who ran the TZ had to go through at least 6-8 tanks on the starterbox before hitting the track for another 4-5 tanks of running-in. Follow the Josh Cyrul's method that jefferylin posted, it might seemed time consuming and fuel-wasting, but it's a small price to pay for a longer-lasting engine.

rc_alan

I have a dumb question or maybe not... I was running my RRR Sunday at CP and having a good time on the track... Pulled my car off the track to help a friend with his... His RRR/Nova motor would'nt start... It was found to have a broken fuel tank... Got it fix/put in brand new one... Then when I went to refuel mine... Fuel ran out everywhere.... I too had a broken/leaking fuel tank... Is this an issue with Kyosho RRR's??? My car is only 2 weeks old and still looks brand new... I haven't seen anything like this since my NTC3 days years ago... Is there a fix for this or an updated fuel tank coming??? Thanks

RC_Alan

GUINT1

Alan... yes gas tanks do brake.This i belive has been known to happen to a few guys that run this car. My bubby and i both had the same problem, as well.
In my case. My gas tank didnt brake. Mine had
a air leak were they sealed the two peices togetther, to make the tank.
By me not knowing this at the time. It was also hard for me to start my car.But i was very lucky to catch it.
Because the motor could have leaned out from this air leak.
Just change the tank, and you will be fine. Hope this helps.

jeffreylin

It was a problem with the original RRR. When you hit the chassis will bend slightly and put stress on the tank and crack it. The newer ones and the WCE has a new upper deck with elongated screw holes for the tank so that it has room to move under stress thus alleviating the problem. Just make sure you do not over tighten the tank screws and leave them a little loose.