New Novak Brusless System
07-15-2007, 09:21 AM
#2416
Hi, I'm running a Losi JRX-S (1.83 IR), GTB with a 4.5R motor. My problem is thermal shutdown.
Here's what I noticed in different runs:
GTB + 4.5R with non-sintered rotor
used FDR of 10.2 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes and 1 lap (23 secs)
used FDR of 9.76 - thermal shutdown, did not finish the 5 mins. heat
GTB + 4.5R with sintered rotor
used FDR of 10.2 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes + 2 lap
used FDR of 9.76 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes + 1 lap
used FDR of 9.37 - did not continue feeling I might be overgeared as it seems acceleration is mushy and car slowed down after 2-3 laps
temperature measurement ranged for the motor from 68-81 degC after shutdown, ESC is about 48-55degC (measured after each test run)
Am I undergeared with the above set-up? Also with the sintered rotor, I notice sometimes there is a point after braking, the motor wont run (cogged?).
Does undergearing could also cause the brushless system to overheat?
One more thing, I think my radio is set to 50/50 electronic thown and not the 70/30 recommended, will this have anything to do with the overheating/shutdowns???
Many thanks to all for the help. Regards..
Ludwig
Here's what I noticed in different runs:
GTB + 4.5R with non-sintered rotor
used FDR of 10.2 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes and 1 lap (23 secs)
used FDR of 9.76 - thermal shutdown, did not finish the 5 mins. heat
GTB + 4.5R with sintered rotor
used FDR of 10.2 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes + 2 lap
used FDR of 9.76 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes + 1 lap
used FDR of 9.37 - did not continue feeling I might be overgeared as it seems acceleration is mushy and car slowed down after 2-3 laps
temperature measurement ranged for the motor from 68-81 degC after shutdown, ESC is about 48-55degC (measured after each test run)
Am I undergeared with the above set-up? Also with the sintered rotor, I notice sometimes there is a point after braking, the motor wont run (cogged?).
Does undergearing could also cause the brushless system to overheat?
One more thing, I think my radio is set to 50/50 electronic thown and not the 70/30 recommended, will this have anything to do with the overheating/shutdowns???
Many thanks to all for the help. Regards..
Ludwig
07-15-2007, 09:30 AM
#2417
Hi, I'm running a Losi JRX-S (1.83 IR), GTB with a 4.5R motor. My problem is thermal shutdown.
Here's what I noticed in different runs:
GTB + 4.5R with non-sintered rotor
used FDR of 10.2 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes and 1 lap (23 secs)
used FDR of 9.76 - thermal shutdown, did not finish the 5 mins. heat
GTB + 4.5R with sintered rotor
used FDR of 10.2 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes + 2 lap
used FDR of 9.76 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes + 1 lap
used FDR of 9.37 - did not continue feeling I might be overgeared as it seems acceleration is mushy and car slowed down after 2-3 laps
temperature measurement ranged for the motor from 68-81 degC after shutdown, ESC is about 48-55degC (measured after each test run)
Am I undergeared with the above set-up? Also with the sintered rotor, I notice sometimes there is a point after braking, the motor wont run (cogged?).
Does undergearing could also cause the brushless system to overheat?
One more thing, I think my radio is set to 50/50 electronic thown and not the 70/30 recommended, will this have anything to do with the overheating/shutdowns???
Many thanks to all for the help. Regards..
Ludwig
Here's what I noticed in different runs:
GTB + 4.5R with non-sintered rotor
used FDR of 10.2 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes and 1 lap (23 secs)
used FDR of 9.76 - thermal shutdown, did not finish the 5 mins. heat
GTB + 4.5R with sintered rotor
used FDR of 10.2 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes + 2 lap
used FDR of 9.76 - thermal shutdown after 5 minutes + 1 lap
used FDR of 9.37 - did not continue feeling I might be overgeared as it seems acceleration is mushy and car slowed down after 2-3 laps
temperature measurement ranged for the motor from 68-81 degC after shutdown, ESC is about 48-55degC (measured after each test run)
Am I undergeared with the above set-up? Also with the sintered rotor, I notice sometimes there is a point after braking, the motor wont run (cogged?).
Does undergearing could also cause the brushless system to overheat?
One more thing, I think my radio is set to 50/50 electronic thown and not the 70/30 recommended, will this have anything to do with the overheating/shutdowns???
Many thanks to all for the help. Regards..
Ludwig
try working above 10.2 fdr... maybe 10.5 to 10.75 should be a good gearing. I have geared mine @ 10.2 (bonded rotor) with no thermal issues but my set-up was strictly 5mins run night race.
Btw, just some advice specially for non sintered rotor as much as possible avoid thermal issues as it will weaken the rotor and eventually damaged the magnets. Don't make hard brakings as this too can damaged the rotor.. It happended to me
07-15-2007, 11:05 AM
#2419
the 13.5 without sintered rotor will thermal at approx 200 F
Everytime you thermal the motor the rotor gets weaker and will thermal again at a reduced tempreture (for example 190F)
so try to be cautious or better yet get a sintered rotor
if the track does not allow that, then be cautious and ask your fellow club members what ratio they are using.
Everytime you thermal the motor the rotor gets weaker and will thermal again at a reduced tempreture (for example 190F)
so try to be cautious or better yet get a sintered rotor
if the track does not allow that, then be cautious and ask your fellow club members what ratio they are using.
07-15-2007, 04:38 PM
#2420
Thermal
Need some help.
Just bought GTB 4 cell with 5.5 motor. Roll out was a little high 1.444, but perfect for 100 ft straight. The speed control kept thermalling off. Is there a way to keep this from happening or do you just have to keep going down on pinon and losing top end speed? If so that sucks I guess I should have bought an LRP.
Just bought GTB 4 cell with 5.5 motor. Roll out was a little high 1.444, but perfect for 100 ft straight. The speed control kept thermalling off. Is there a way to keep this from happening or do you just have to keep going down on pinon and losing top end speed? If so that sucks I guess I should have bought an LRP.
07-15-2007, 05:05 PM
#2421
Thanks for the replies, highly appreciate it.
Rcdy: Thanks bro, I ran the 4.5R with sintered rotor on 10.2 FDR and I finished the 5 minutes heat however continued to run the car for 2 more laps then it thermalled. Motor was hot 81 C (176 F). I'll try a 1 teeth smaller pinion.
Anyway, does the 50/50 and 70/30 electronic throw setting on the transmitter have anything to do with the performance on BL systems? The Novak BL required 70/30 but currently I figured out my 3PK was still on 50/50. Anyone?
Thanks again.
Rcdy: Thanks bro, I ran the 4.5R with sintered rotor on 10.2 FDR and I finished the 5 minutes heat however continued to run the car for 2 more laps then it thermalled. Motor was hot 81 C (176 F). I'll try a 1 teeth smaller pinion.
Anyway, does the 50/50 and 70/30 electronic throw setting on the transmitter have anything to do with the performance on BL systems? The Novak BL required 70/30 but currently I figured out my 3PK was still on 50/50. Anyone?
Thanks again.
07-15-2007, 06:38 PM
#2423
Need some help.
Just bought GTB 4 cell with 5.5 motor. Roll out was a little high 1.444, but perfect for 100 ft straight. The speed control kept thermalling off. Is there a way to keep this from happening or do you just have to keep going down on pinon and losing top end speed? If so that sucks I guess I should have bought an LRP.
Just bought GTB 4 cell with 5.5 motor. Roll out was a little high 1.444, but perfect for 100 ft straight. The speed control kept thermalling off. Is there a way to keep this from happening or do you just have to keep going down on pinon and losing top end speed? If so that sucks I guess I should have bought an LRP.
07-15-2007, 07:11 PM
#2424
Thermal
Marcos I do have a sintered rotor. It isn't the motor getting too hot it is the speed control. I didn't temp either one, but the speed control is way hotter than the motor. Is this normal or do I have a bad speed control?
07-16-2007, 02:32 AM
#2425
Thanks for the replies, highly appreciate it.
Rcdy: Thanks bro, I ran the 4.5R with sintered rotor on 10.2 FDR and I finished the 5 minutes heat however continued to run the car for 2 more laps then it thermalled. Motor was hot 81 C (176 F). I'll try a 1 teeth smaller pinion.
Anyway, does the 50/50 and 70/30 electronic throw setting on the transmitter have anything to do with the performance on BL systems? The Novak BL required 70/30 but currently I figured out my 3PK was still on 50/50. Anyone?
Thanks again.
Rcdy: Thanks bro, I ran the 4.5R with sintered rotor on 10.2 FDR and I finished the 5 minutes heat however continued to run the car for 2 more laps then it thermalled. Motor was hot 81 C (176 F). I'll try a 1 teeth smaller pinion.
Anyway, does the 50/50 and 70/30 electronic throw setting on the transmitter have anything to do with the performance on BL systems? The Novak BL required 70/30 but currently I figured out my 3PK was still on 50/50. Anyone?
Thanks again.
I also notice between fdr of 10.2 and 10.5 theres no speed difference. so to be safe 10.5 nlang.
I also don't think theres any effect on your radio settings. happy brushless racing lewd...
07-18-2007, 10:02 AM
#2427
guys, my power cap became dented during racing so i removed it. I have since not run the GTB without the power cap and I like the look of it without the cap.
I run stock TC with a 13.5ss motor and sintered rotor with li-po. Do you think it will damage the ESC without a power cap or cause any issues?
I run stock TC with a 13.5ss motor and sintered rotor with li-po. Do you think it will damage the ESC without a power cap or cause any issues?
07-18-2007, 11:00 AM
#2428
guys, my power cap became dented during racing so i removed it. I have since not run the GTB without the power cap and I like the look of it without the cap.
I run stock TC with a 13.5ss motor and sintered rotor with li-po. Do you think it will damage the ESC without a power cap or cause any issues?
I run stock TC with a 13.5ss motor and sintered rotor with li-po. Do you think it will damage the ESC without a power cap or cause any issues?
07-18-2007, 12:09 PM
#2429
Tech Elite
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MOOD;; feeling good not racing ,saving shed loads of money,lovely Tan i have aswell
Posts: 4,762
guys, my power cap became dented during racing so i removed it. I have since not run the GTB without the power cap and I like the look of it without the cap.
I run stock TC with a 13.5ss motor and sintered rotor with li-po. Do you think it will damage the ESC without a power cap or cause any issues?
I run stock TC with a 13.5ss motor and sintered rotor with li-po. Do you think it will damage the ESC without a power cap or cause any issues?
so put it back (yes it does look better
) but don't leave it off