Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

for one you will void the warranty but it will keep it from shutting down you probably could ruin both the speed control and the motor,a few weeks back another racer disconnected the sensor wire but it was on the lrp motor and it ran fine (with no shutdown) I put an extra fan on mine and drop a pinion to a final drive of 11.07 and the car came of the track at 161 degrees after a 5 minute main, the car still had a lot of pull at the end of the straight.The track temperature was 145 degrees

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

you dont have to cut it you can just slide it out with a very small screwdriver

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Marcos...

Just a theoretical really, i don't plan on voiding my warranty!! LoL.
And i haven't experienced any thermal problems for a long long time. (Yep - it was all me and my ineptitute. I won''t blame the product!)

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

Im sure that Steve can explain it better than I can, by the way my sensor wire is untouched

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

In the rules arent all the sensor wires meant to be intact? otherwise it is no different to a sensorless motor which is illegal under the ROAR and IFMAR rules?

Nexus Racing

The sensor they are referring to is the temperature sensor, not the sensor that "knows the rotor position." By disconnecting the blue wire, you would essentially be removing the thermal shutdown feature.
I think that more people have trouble thermalling the 4300 and 5800 systems than any of the mod systems. I have heard that every time you add a tooth on the pinion with these motors, your lap times will increase...but if you keep overgearing more and more, you will create way too much heat and send the ESC into thermal shutdown.
There isn't as much "need" to overgear the mod systems.

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

So the sensor issue is open to interpretation?

I would assume the rules require that the sensor harness is fully connector and operational. Has anyone heard anything about the 3.5 motor?
I don't forsee myself using anything faster than the 4.5 really. But it's interesting that Novak are going into the 3.5 as well.

aaronb73

iTrader: (5)

Just want to clarify something I noticed during my race yesterday. A friend and I both run a GTB / 5.5 in our lazer zx-5s. Same gearing, layout, etc as one another. On the track's 125 ft or so straight he's catching up and passing me easily by the halfway point.

My car is pretty fast, hasn't thermalled on me or anything but there seems to be a big difference in performance. I had been running a GTX with a 10 double checkpoint prior to the brushless and the performance was about equal between cars.

Is this a sign of something faulty in my speed control? I am planning to swap the GTX back in and do some futher testing.

James

iTrader: (11)

is his car dialed for more forward bite?

is your radio gear set to full th/bk highpoint and programmed with the GTB like that?

still a few factors worth looking at.

swap your electronics with ea other and see if it's still the same, it will determine if it's the elec's or the car/radio gear setup..

James

miamifanatic

iTrader: (4)

hello all i just bought a gtb system with the 4.5 i will be putting it in my fk05 for parking lot racing just wondering how to gear it. The track size is 150x40 and wide open no tight spots also will be running lipo battery if that makes a difference thanks any help will be very helpful dont want to burn up new system

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

I would start around a 10.0 FDR and go from there

kidrobot

whats another good brushless esc out there?? is gtb the best for far??let me know thanks

lookinco

LRP Sphere Competition is another good brushed / brushless esc.

kidrobot

how come the lrp cost more than the gtb? which is better between these two brushless system?

STEALTH

iTrader: (21)

Has anyone on here used their GTB Brushless System with an Orion-Kokam Platinum Li-Po battery pack!?! If so could you share some comments, observations, tips, recommendations, etc.? Just wondering if both are perfectly compatible.

Thanks!