Serpent 710
05-04-2004, 12:40 PM
#9436
Re: Silly question
Originally posted by markp27
Should I be measuring the track width with the car sitting on the setup board or by holding the car in the air, as it were?
Should I be measuring the track width with the car sitting on the setup board or by holding the car in the air, as it were?
05-04-2004, 12:41 PM
#9437
Re: Working out the angle of the cone!
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Guys,
If you've got a tyre truer and want to cut down some tyres which already are coned AND you wish to keep the cone angle the same, then here's what to do:
Measure the largest diameter of the tyre at the outside edge. Measure the smallest diameter of the tyre at the inside edge. Subtract the two and call this A.
Now measure the width between where you took the two measurements - not the width of the tyre, simply the distance between the two measured points. Call this B.
Now, go and get a scientific calculator (or use the one on your computer) Divide A by B and then press the "inv Tan" or "Tan -1" button. The resulting value is the cone angle. You can now set up you hudy with this angle and cut down your tyres to the desired diameter.
NOTE! When you've set the hudy up to cut at an angle, the diameter setting is no longer accurate - it's best to set the diameter 2 to 3mm larger than you want and then measure the tyres after they are cut. If they are too large then reduce the cutting diameter accordingly.
Hope this helps, Mark.
Hi Guys,
If you've got a tyre truer and want to cut down some tyres which already are coned AND you wish to keep the cone angle the same, then here's what to do:
Measure the largest diameter of the tyre at the outside edge. Measure the smallest diameter of the tyre at the inside edge. Subtract the two and call this A.
Now measure the width between where you took the two measurements - not the width of the tyre, simply the distance between the two measured points. Call this B.
Now, go and get a scientific calculator (or use the one on your computer) Divide A by B and then press the "inv Tan" or "Tan -1" button. The resulting value is the cone angle. You can now set up you hudy with this angle and cut down your tyres to the desired diameter.
NOTE! When you've set the hudy up to cut at an angle, the diameter setting is no longer accurate - it's best to set the diameter 2 to 3mm larger than you want and then measure the tyres after they are cut. If they are too large then reduce the cutting diameter accordingly.
Hope this helps, Mark.
Put the tire on the setup board and take a camber gauge and measure how far it leans over. The calculator look much cooler though
05-04-2004, 12:49 PM
#9438
Re: Re: Working out the angle of the cone!
Originally posted by Julius
You could also:
Put the tire on the setup board and take a camber gauge and measure how far it leans over. The calculator look much cooler though
You could also:
Put the tire on the setup board and take a camber gauge and measure how far it leans over. The calculator look much cooler though
Man, why didn't I think of that 
That's what you get for studying Physics!
05-04-2004, 12:53 PM
#9439
Re: Working out the angle of the cone!
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Last edited by markp27; 05-04-2004 at 01:23 PM.
05-04-2004, 01:13 PM
#9440
Re: Re: Working out the angle of the cone!
Originally posted by Julius
You could also:
Put the tire on the setup board and take a camber gauge and measure how far it leans over. The calculator look much cooler though
You could also:
Put the tire on the setup board and take a camber gauge and measure how far it leans over. The calculator look much cooler though
If the coning shows that one side has 1 Degree more coning than the other and both sides have equal camber, that should mean that I should alter the camber on one siide to get the optimal camber setting?
Cheers, Mark.
05-04-2004, 01:26 PM
#9441
Re: Re: Re: Working out the angle of the cone!
Originally posted by markp27
Julius,
If the coning shows that one side has 1 Degree more coning than the other and both sides have equal camber, that should mean that I should alter the camber on one siide to get the optimal camber setting?
Cheers, Mark.
Julius,
If the coning shows that one side has 1 Degree more coning than the other and both sides have equal camber, that should mean that I should alter the camber on one siide to get the optimal camber setting?
Cheers, Mark.
05-04-2004, 01:28 PM
#9442
Nice Body
Originally posted by markp27
Julius you've been in the plane too long - you're out of data, man! Check my last picture from yesterday:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=860272
The ti-screws are all from Tamiya - I ordered them from rccarinternational.com - you can probably go to the shop to have a look. They are true M3 screws with the 2mm hex button heads. Also I've got some M3s with counter sunk heads. All tamiya. Expensive and not so much weight saved
Cheers, Mark.
Julius you've been in the plane too long - you're out of data, man! Check my last picture from yesterday:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...&postid=860272
The ti-screws are all from Tamiya - I ordered them from rccarinternational.com - you can probably go to the shop to have a look. They are true M3 screws with the 2mm hex button heads. Also I've got some M3s with counter sunk heads. All tamiya. Expensive and not so much weight saved
Cheers, Mark.
try the New enneti disc wheels there real good New super foam !
about the lay down conversion sets for MTX3 and 710 were getting them soon
thanks for your help (nice decals )
05-04-2004, 01:42 PM
#9443
Re: Re: Re: Re: Working out the angle of the cone!
Originally posted by Julius
Yes, you want to get both sides close. Sometimes you will have extreme corners (like the corner onto the straight at heemstede) which make getting both sides equal very difficult. I usually don't run more than 1 degree difference and accept if there is still a difference.
Yes, you want to get both sides close. Sometimes you will have extreme corners (like the corner onto the straight at heemstede) which make getting both sides equal very difficult. I usually don't run more than 1 degree difference and accept if there is still a difference.
That circuit looks fantastic! In someways a little similar to mine, in that there is one longish fast corner, a long fast straight and lots of very tight corners.Cheers, Mark.
05-04-2004, 01:44 PM
#9444
Re: Nice Body
Originally posted by border r/c
Hi Mark, very nice body
try the New enneti disc wheels there real good New super foam !
about the lay down conversion sets for MTX3 and 710 were getting them soon
thanks for your help (nice decals )
Hi Mark, very nice body
try the New enneti disc wheels there real good New super foam !
about the lay down conversion sets for MTX3 and 710 were getting them soon
thanks for your help (nice decals )
Those decals go really well with the colour scheme I'm placing an order soon, so I've got some spares for my engine - I'll take a couple of those wheels at the same time
Cheers, Mark.
05-04-2004, 01:47 PM
#9445
Re: Re: Re: Re: Working out the angle of the cone!
Originally posted by Julius
Yes, you want to get both sides close. Sometimes you will have extreme corners (like the corner onto the straight at heemstede) which make getting both sides equal very difficult. I usually don't run more than 1 degree difference and accept if there is still a difference.
Yes, you want to get both sides close. Sometimes you will have extreme corners (like the corner onto the straight at heemstede) which make getting both sides equal very difficult. I usually don't run more than 1 degree difference and accept if there is still a difference.
Cheers, Mark.
05-04-2004, 03:16 PM
#9446
Originally posted by Julius
Most alu screws are the countersunk type and I don't want to use the shims underneath.
Most alu screws are the countersunk type and I don't want to use the shims underneath.
They also have aluminum buttonhead and sockethead screws in many lengths packed per 50. Both M3 x 0.5 and M4 x 0.7.
05-04-2004, 04:55 PM
#9447
Hey Julius, on a track that big. How do you even see your car???
05-04-2004, 05:17 PM
#9448
Originally posted by markp27
1/5th - something I can't get into - they sound like lawn mowers. After I had run my engine in on Sat, I was getting it up to temp at half throttle, when along came on of the 1/5th guys. He dissmisively said, "is that all its got!", no I said and gave it briefly WOT - he had to back off because of the noise
A lot of the 1/5th guys look down on the 1/10th and 1/8th - god knows why!!!
1/5th - something I can't get into - they sound like lawn mowers. After I had run my engine in on Sat, I was getting it up to temp at half throttle, when along came on of the 1/5th guys. He dissmisively said, "is that all its got!", no I said and gave it briefly WOT - he had to back off because of the noise A lot of the 1/5th guys look down on the 1/10th and 1/8th - god knows why!!!
Mind you, there is a common thread ... all them drivers seemed to be over 50 so I know we all gonna get there one day. Perhaps its a vision thing?
05-04-2004, 06:40 PM
#9449
Tech Fanatic
Re: Re: Re: Re: Working out the angle of the cone!
Originally posted by Julius
Yes, you want to get both sides close. Sometimes you will have extreme corners (like the corner onto the straight at heemstede) which make getting both sides equal very difficult. I usually don't run more than 1 degree difference and accept if there is still a difference.
Yes, you want to get both sides close. Sometimes you will have extreme corners (like the corner onto the straight at heemstede) which make getting both sides equal very difficult. I usually don't run more than 1 degree difference and accept if there is still a difference.
05-04-2004, 06:58 PM
#9450
Re: Re: Re: Re: Working out the angle of the cone!
Originally posted by Julius
Yes, you want to get both sides close. Sometimes you will have extreme corners (like the corner onto the straight at heemstede) which make getting both sides equal very difficult. I usually don't run more than 1 degree difference and accept if there is still a difference.
Yes, you want to get both sides close. Sometimes you will have extreme corners (like the corner onto the straight at heemstede) which make getting both sides equal very difficult. I usually don't run more than 1 degree difference and accept if there is still a difference.
Sweet track !!!!