spenzalii

iTrader: (2)

It's a crying shame. It's cold and I odn't have the time to run at the area carpet track (45 minutes out), so I ended up converting my XXX-S into a drifter. I cut some PVC pipe, slapped them on some rims and went to town yesterday. Quickest conversion I've done yet. With nitro coming around the corner, it wouldn't have got much run once the weather broke. Quite fun, actually. I'll still go get the belt conversion, just in case I do get some asphalt running in between nitro time.

stumper

iTrader: (2)

Great name btw! I noticed the same thing yesterday when putting on any rim besides the losi ones.....I think its common thing.

RichO

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know who would have the yokomo AE hexs for foam tires in stock? I am looking for the clamping hubs but I cannot seem to find them in stock anywhere.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Most rims are made for the metric sized axles so thats could be why some fit tighter and the hole needs to be enlarged a little with a reamer. But yes it is common to have rims that fit tight over the axle.


RichO.....try Yokomo direct.....or Stormers maybe.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

RichO, I have them in stock and they will be on the TC3 page shortly.

ZER01

Found a tip...

This defeats the purpose of setting droop via shock ball end but it does eliminate the "slop" between the shock ball and the ball cup. I've notice more and more slop between the ball and the ball cup holder each time I run the car and the way to take the slop out is to tighten the ball cupp on more untill the ball freely moves yet the slop is removed from the pressure of the shock shaft on the ball cup.

Another way is to eliminate the slop and still adjust droop via shock end is to use the standard camber link ball cups and ends.

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

i must say the hardware included with the xxx-s is the absolute WORST i have ever worked with. Doing the graphite conversion, even with pre-tapping the holes ive stripped 3 screws. ive never seen such a weak material used in screws before. Now i have to risk ripping my graphite chassis to shit with my dremel just to get one screw out.

sorry i just felt the need to vent

JohnMatrix

Thats Disappointing to hear.

I've found that the easyout screw set , #0, works very well on striped screws.

EricF

What brad of wrenches are you using? The quality of your tools play a major role in striping out the allen heads especially the 1/16 and .050.

That's still to bad that happened.

Eric

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

yea, im going to invest in some Integy drivers before i continue. I have a screw set coming from rcscrewz.com as well. And i think im going to buy a proper tapp for it .

dad and i just drilled the head off the sucker.

sorry if i offended anyone with my little rant

James Nguyen

Get better tools...it happens sometimes if your tools are old. I would stray away from the integy ones, I had them a long time ago and the tips wore out pretty quickly. Just my opinion though.

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

hrm!. can you reccomend anything?
Ive heard the Team Associated set is good

EddieO

iTrader: (6)

Hudy makes nice stuff, so does Losi and Trinity. I do have some integy wrenches.....more like my back up wrenches or the ones I loan out without a worry of getting it back.....


I've never had a problem stripping any of the screws I got with a losi kit.....

Later EddieO

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

Integy wrenches are just fine, I've had a set for 2 years now and only broke the .50 just because I had some muscle behind it. I agree the losi and probably the Tamiya flat head screws are the worst, they are made from cheep pot metals or something. I replaced my XXX-S with a Ti set I got off of ebay for $35.

James Nguyen

I have the Trinity wrenches and nut drivers. They are nice but a tad bit on the expensive side. If I were to get anything else it would have to be Hudy. Hudy just released some of there less expensive version.