Team Associated TC5
#6138
Tech Addict
#6139
if you here a clicking noise check the screws that you are using to hold the spur gear in place... you may have used screws that might have been to long and the screws could be making the clicking noise ... the screws or maybe just one screw might be scraping against the top deck.
#6141
Hey guys, I posted this in the for sale/trade forum but I figured I would let you guys know about it too, I dont know if anyone is looking for another car for a backup or any thing but im selling two TC5's.
The rubber tire car has never been ran, the other car that was built for foam tires and has been ran about 4 race days.
Chassis on both cars have been sanded and sealed.
Both cars have all hard parts and aluminum diffs front and rear.
Rubber tire car has chassis protection film and IFT top deck.
The only spare parts that I have are the original plasitc parts that came with the car, I also have 2 mounted unpainted mazda 6 bodies.
Im asking $255 each, payment via pay pal, Sorry no trades.
Sean
The rubber tire car has never been ran, the other car that was built for foam tires and has been ran about 4 race days.
Chassis on both cars have been sanded and sealed.
Both cars have all hard parts and aluminum diffs front and rear.
Rubber tire car has chassis protection film and IFT top deck.
The only spare parts that I have are the original plasitc parts that came with the car, I also have 2 mounted unpainted mazda 6 bodies.
Im asking $255 each, payment via pay pal, Sorry no trades.
Sean
#6143
Just a note about Rick Hohward's setup posted. I tried it this past weekend in SC, track temp got up to 137* and I only made two small changes front springs went to silver and changed the front shock oil to 35 wt. Other then that it was great!!!!! I have only been racing TC for five months now and I was only half a second behind the fastest qualifier in the A main!! Was great. I am planning on saving this for hot track temps with medium traction!
#6144
#6145
Thanks for posting your setup on AE's website.
I've some questions concerning this setup :
Why are you using anti-Dive and, please, can you explain the rear lower shock mount position?
Thank you,
Sebastien.
#6147
I've read the TC5R manual :
Anti-Dive :
Reduces weight transfer to the front on deceleration entering corners and
reduces caster.
and as a consequence :
Decreased caster gives a more responsive feel and more exit steering.
Kick-up :
More entry steering and more caster so :
Increasing caster reduce mid to exit corner and front is less responsive.
Why Rick have used 1° anti-Dive and 6° C-Hub (5° total caster) and not 1° kick-up + 4° C-Hub (5° total caster) ?
Is it because 5° caster was the best and anti dive was used for reducing the weight transfer ?
Or there is another answer ?
Sebastien
#6148
I've read the TC5R manual :
Anti-Dive :
Reduces weight transfer to the front on deceleration entering corners and
reduces caster.
and as a consequence :
Decreased caster gives a more responsive feel and more exit steering.
Kick-up :
More entry steering and more caster so :
Increasing caster reduce mid to exit corner and front is less responsive.
Why Rick have used 1° anti-Dive and 6° C-Hub (5° total caster) and not 1° kick-up + 4° C-Hub (5° total caster) ?
Is it because 5° caster was the best and anti dive was used for reducing the weight transfer ?
Or there is another answer ?
Sebastien
Anti-Dive :
Reduces weight transfer to the front on deceleration entering corners and
reduces caster.
and as a consequence :
Decreased caster gives a more responsive feel and more exit steering.
Kick-up :
More entry steering and more caster so :
Increasing caster reduce mid to exit corner and front is less responsive.
Why Rick have used 1° anti-Dive and 6° C-Hub (5° total caster) and not 1° kick-up + 4° C-Hub (5° total caster) ?
Is it because 5° caster was the best and anti dive was used for reducing the weight transfer ?
Or there is another answer ?
Sebastien
I went to the inside position on the rear arm as a result of my Tamiya experiences. The Tamiya car used different shock position front and rear which resulted in the use of the same springs all-around. I never ran "split" springs front and rear with Tamiya so I thought I would try and set up the TC5 so I could do the same thing. That is why I used the green springs all around.
All these changes happened at a point in the event that I did not play with it much more. The car was so good I did not want ot mess with it further. But we have our Nationals next week so I will work on it a bit more and see what happens.
#6149
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
well guys i figured out what was clicking. it was in the spur i took it apart lube the bearings and put it back togther and it stop clicking. but after that i rolled it without a pinion and stil didnt roll to much futher. so i lube all the bearings and lossened the screws in the back of the top plat, just alittle and it seemed to roll alot futher. after i pulled out my pro 4 just to test to see how much futher it would roll and my hpi seemed to roll much futher then the tc5. so i dont know what to do know. i mean i got the tc5 to roll alot i mean alot further but my pro4 4 seems to roll even further any suggestion ????