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Old 03-15-2010, 01:10 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
I assume you are talking about the set screw that goes into the aluminum brake pulley. The manual shows it to be a 4x4.
Perfect! I'll get it ordered right now!
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:42 AM
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http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=7912
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Old 03-16-2010, 03:02 AM
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Default EVO2 WC Vs Shimo Edition

What are the different between this two model?
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rawi
What are the different between this two model?
LF Shock , 3D Smaller Clutch , Pinion gear , Brake disk , Rear upright ...
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Old 03-19-2010, 12:56 PM
  #50  
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Lightbulb bearings/ final drive gear ratios

I have the shimo and in my first "real" race with the car, I had two front outer hub bearings that partially seized up and the other metal shield came out. And broke one of the rear adjustable blades, not bad. Considering I was rear ended in the straight during practice at 45 mph or better by an eight scale twice. I ordered new ceramics from acer. I'll see what they do.

I am still trying to find out the Final drive ratios for the shimo. Does anyone have a clue what formula or numbers to start with or where to get them? I want to get the best results out of my foams between qaulifiers and mains. I recently used an equal 58mm front and rear with the 26t middle pulley gear. I was told to run 2mm higher in the rear than the front. I was getting 4 min run times from my max power .12 rr3. I am trying to figure is it my motor or my stock setup. I am using the stock clutch gears of 17 and I think 23 on a mid- sized semi technical track. I want to get the nova 353 racer .12 after I get a handle on this new car.
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:03 AM
  #51  
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It was your motor.
I heard it at the start of your qualifier, but didn't get the chance to make any adjustments.
Ceramics are a great investment.
At the Fort I run 17/22 and 55/59 with 58 front and 60 rears.
This is what my RR3 likes, so it may work for you as well.
See you next time.
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:07 PM
  #52  
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Cool It will come back, hopefully

Originally Posted by Dru Garcia
It was your motor.
I heard it at the start of your qualifier, but didn't get the chance to make any adjustments.
Ceramics are a great investment.
At the Fort I run 17/22 and 55/59 with 58 front and 60 rears.
This is what my RR3 likes, so it may work for you as well.
See you next time.
My wife and I am going to try and hit Homestead up next. I learned a little about this car and what I need to have a better strategy. peace.
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Old 03-20-2010, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by kyosho_ken
My wife and I am going to try and hit Homestead up next. I learned a little about this car and what I need to have a better strategy. peace.
I've been to this track a few times, but it's a new track with a 300' straightaway and since the driver's stand has been moved, it has changed everything. We will be driving in the same track the world 1/8 scale will be running in 2011. It's going to be a blast!
We will be there starting Friday, just to make sure all the minor stuff is worked out before qualifiers.
Hope you make it down.
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:47 PM
  #54  
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Had a good test of the car for the first time this weekend at the RCX challenge. My car was absolutely great. Most competitive I have ever been. There was still a something to improve as I could lose the rear of the car on corner exit if I didn't roll the throttle, but even with that small issue, the car was simply awesome.
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
Had a good test of the car for the first time this weekend at the RCX challenge. My car was absolutely great. Most competitive I have ever been. There was still a something to improve as I could lose the rear of the car on corner exit if I didn't roll the throttle, but even with that small issue, the car was simply awesome.
That's great!

Are you running it stock out-of-the-box or have you got any upgrades? How about springs, shock oil and diff oil? What body?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:19 AM
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Thats a damn good looking car!
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
That's great!

Are you running it stock out-of-the-box or have you got any upgrades? How about springs, shock oil and diff oil? What body?

Thanks in advance!
I pitted for him over the weekend and can say he was using almost the kit setup from what he told me as far as springs and oil go.

He uses all of the YBSLow liteweight drivetrain parts like titanium 2spd and midshafts.
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
That's great!

Are you running it stock out-of-the-box or have you got any upgrades? How about springs, shock oil and diff oil? What body?

Thanks in advance!
Brad is pretty much correct.
I am running the stock shocks, springs and pistons but ran 500wt oil. Kit diff oils (50k/front 20k/rear)

Other hopups include: Yblslow drivetrain parts (titanium). I use titanium ball studs and ball ends.

I use the Kyosho APP brake pads as well as the Kyosho titanium pillow balls and Kyosho titanium screws on the top half of the car. I used the older rear shock tower. All my diffs use Kyosho titanium bevel shafts. I also used the new Shimo clutch and adjusted it to my liking. (had to run the spring looser than the kit suggestion)

For the body, I run only Protoform bodies. I ran both the R5N as well as the Stratus. I did set TQ with the R5N in round 1. I ran the Stratus in rd2 and 3 and decided to use the stratus in the main event. My car was the car great in the main but I was stupid and left a wheel nut loose and lost a rear tire 8 mins in while leading. Lost 5 laps because of that and ended up about 1 3/4 laps down in second place at the final tone.

Last edited by Scott Fisher; 03-22-2010 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 03-22-2010, 11:07 AM
  #59  
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Thanks for the info guys.

Too bad about the wheel nut Scott. Were you using the Kyosho nuts or the serrated Mugen nuts?
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Thanks for the info guys.

Too bad about the wheel nut Scott. Were you using the Kyosho nuts or the serrated Mugen nuts?
I use the Kyosho serrated wheel nuts (part number 1175)
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