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Old 05-11-2005, 09:33 AM
  #13486  
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did you check to see if the bladder in the shock cap is ripped or something? maybe there's not enough oil in it? If the shaft moves smooth then there's no reason to replace it, it sounds like a simple problem that you just haven't caught yet.
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Old 05-11-2005, 01:02 PM
  #13487  
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Default Yok shocks VS TRF shocks

Matt Howard, thank you for your input, actually I did not check the bladder, only the shaft and I replaced the white o-ring by a black one that came with the kit but it did not work..

Also, when I compare the yok shocks to my Tamiya TRF they aren't poping out as far and fast and I'm using the same oil, now I know the tamiya shocks are the best out there but I don't know if such a difference is normal...

The Yok shocks still feel nice and smooth, BTW I built them carefully and only had one not working at all...

How are you shocks working? and how would you compare them to the Tamiya's?

Thanks!!
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Old 05-12-2005, 02:00 AM
  #13488  
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Hi all,I'm trying to sort out a few handling probs with my car and wan't to clear up a question that's been bugging me.When setting droop - is that set by the suspension arm adjusting screws with the shocks attached or unattached to the arms?Hope this makes sense.
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Old 05-12-2005, 02:40 AM
  #13489  
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I normally set droop with the droop screws, with the shocks disconnected. Then I adjust the shock length if necessary, then reconnect the shocks.
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Old 05-12-2005, 02:44 AM
  #13490  
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Excellent,thanks Horatio.Thats the way I've been doing it.
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Old 05-12-2005, 02:54 AM
  #13491  
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Sorted!
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Old 05-12-2005, 02:58 AM
  #13492  
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Ah not totally sorted.I've still got to sort out the rest of my handling issues.That just eliminates one area.
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Old 05-12-2005, 06:28 AM
  #13493  
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hi guys, for diff...do u guys sand the diff plate?
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Old 05-12-2005, 06:32 AM
  #13494  
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Originally posted by ali_g
hi guys, for diff...do u guys sand the diff plate?
Yes with 2000grit
But only after I have used them already...they are really nice new.
Most of the time I just buy new ones...takes less time. Although I have seen guys scuffign them with 2000 grit before they install new ones also...Just a thought.
Stephen <><
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Old 05-12-2005, 07:07 AM
  #13495  
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Default Drivetrain wobling

Guys,

Since I have my diff still wobbling do you think this is why the rest of the drivetrain (spur, shaft) has some side to side wonling also?

Im waiting for some parts from speedtech to rebuild a new diff and hopefuly get rid of the woble but I hope its coming from the diff
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Old 05-12-2005, 09:25 AM
  #13496  
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Default Re: Drivetrain wobling

Originally posted by Tbevofreak
Guys,

Since I have my diff still wobbling do you think this is why the rest of the drivetrain (spur, shaft) has some side to side wonling also?

Im waiting for some parts from speedtech to rebuild a new diff and hopefuly get rid of the woble but I hope its coming from the diff
Well, after talking to a few drivers who went from 1/10 elec to 1/10 nitro and up, ball diffs have a natural "wobble." The reason for that is you putting to halves together that do not interlock, and there is a variable surface joining the two halves, the diff gear. If you notice that diff screw that holds the two halves together has a little play, it could just be the halves are not perfectly aligned.

Someone else posted on here that you may have over tightened the spur gear, onto the spur gear adapter, torqued it a little and now it wobbles. Its a common problem, just loosen the screws and tighten evenly. No need to torque it down, that's why use thread lock to hold the screws in.

Compare a one way to a diff in terms of constuction. The one way is a machined piece in the center with one way bearings pressed in to place by machine, very tight fitment. Now take look at a diff, molded, user assembled, more prone to variances.

For zero wobble, use a spool in the rear, and a one-way up front. Don't try it, 1/8 setup, good when you have large rear tires, and can "scoot" tires through a turn.
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Old 05-13-2005, 05:47 AM
  #13497  
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rc_bam, thanks for your post I understand that diff gears don't come out of the mold all perfect

But I m trying to find out how the diff wobling can influence the rest of the drivetrain (spur and shaft) by making it wobling also because the wobling changes when I shim the diff differently

I'm wondering if all this isn't a drivetrain alignement problem..?
How do you align your drivetrain on the SD/SDW?

Hope you can still bother with me!

Cheers!
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Old 05-13-2005, 07:32 AM
  #13498  
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Originally posted by Tbevofreak
rc_bam, thanks for your post I understand that diff gears don't come out of the mold all perfect

But I m trying to find out how the diff wobling can influence the rest of the drivetrain (spur and shaft) by making it wobling also because the wobling changes when I shim the diff differently

I'm wondering if all this isn't a drivetrain alignement problem..?
How do you align your drivetrain on the SD/SDW?

Hope you can still bother with me!

Cheers!
The only only thing that I can think of that would wear would be the ring gear(diff/one-way), and the input gear. But that is normal wear-and-tear. Over time and usage the gears will break in.

As far as assembly goes, went by manufacturer's instructions in the manual, gave it a good starting run, and started to make adjustments. Nothing special there.
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Old 05-14-2005, 11:39 AM
  #13499  
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RETARDED ME

Last edited by Mr. Shookie; 05-16-2005 at 06:00 AM.
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Old 05-14-2005, 01:06 PM
  #13500  
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Thanx Shook... -JB
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