If you watch the good drivers drive (don't watch me in this case ) they typically land on the downslope of the next jump so your pack should be more than adequate to avoid damage. If there isn't another jump to land on the track probably isn't designed very well. The good guys cars make very little noise on landing.

Sticking weights on the chassis gets in the way of swapping anti-squat shims. Locating it on the battery foam keeps it out of the way. Otherwise, yes I would have done it that way.

I don't use bump stops either. Use shock limiters inside the shock. Most kits have them. Droop screws for 1/8th nitro off-road are handy.

Managed to completely toast the motor in my SC10 RTR tonight after only 3 runs at the track..

Damn, thats disappointing since it's supposed to be a pretty solid truck. Otherwise it was pretty well setup. Upgrade to brushless or stay with the brushed (I'm poor )

I have a couple questions I have had a SC10 for about 7 months and my Reedy 3300kv motor died but not sure why I have always checked temps. Anyway is there any chance AE will help me out with this issue? I also bought a new gear diff complete kit but there was no sun gears in the package and all the gears are different now so couldn't use any of the others had to reuse my old gears! Anybody else ever had stuff missing and I really don't know if it's worth the hassle to get some new ones from AE and try to get a new motor or not? I am just curious how AE is about support. Thanks for any info!

I agree with this, but I'm a long ways from landing jumps perfectly every time...lol. I went ahead today and bought some different shock oils, o-rings for bumpstops, and spring sets to experiment some. I'm just wondering what would be the best baseline to start at first? Is this a good place to start: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...FDY/edit?pli=1

Chris

Suggest you start off with a good factory team set-up first.
( www.rc10.com)



Bumper's are rarely used on 1/10th , sometimes I have seen them used outdoors on really big air jumps for instance ....

More than likely no, usually they just have a 90 day warrenty, and its just on craftsmanship.....but I would still call, worst they can say is no....

Yesterday was the first time going to a big track, "Mike's in Dallas"... Had a decent showing, Finished 2nd in 17.5 class, they combined us with the Stock Slash. There was a section of the track that I could not clear consistently. It was a pretty big double, double. The stock slash guys had a power advantage but we had a traction/handling advantage. It was my first time on that track and the guy who beat me was a local guy who ran real smooth. He passed me in that double double section on the last lap... Oh well... My question is I was running a Viper 17.5 and switched to a Reedy Sonic 17.5. The Reedy seemed to to have a little more power but still not enough to get over the jump. My motor temp was 140 on both motors, I was geared 75/26. That was what one of the locals said to gear it. My timing was basically zero'd on both motors. What do you suggest I do for more get up and go... Thanks

What speedo are you running? Could go up a tooth or add some timing. I run my Tekin anywhere between 8 an 20 degrees static timing depending on track conditions. I have found "my" sweet spot on the RS/Hotwire so I leave the speedo alone.

im new to offroad an i need alot of help have a sc10 ft with the same setup with slicers on front an calibers on back the track i race on is the worst track to drive no traction an ive got caught up to the top runners but now they want help me get better they just say drive i need some ideas to try next time on the track like setup wise i need alot more traction and speed

I am running the LRP SXX Stock Spec. I have the Viper 10 ESC but for some reason it wont sync to my radio system. I haven't messed with my Boost at all in the ESC it is still set in the stock setting.

You have to land on the down side of the first double in order to make the second double. if you over jump the first one youll lose any run up speed that is needed for the second. and keep the truck on the inside as the outside of the second double is much taller.

Couldnt help you with the Viper ESC issue. Never had or used one. But I know my Tekin did this a couple of times. Check to make sure all of your radio trims are centered or zeroed and then rebind you tx and rx. I will assume you are using the speedo to power the rx like normal. As far as timing, there is static and advance. Static is on the motor itself, which you said was near zero. Advanced is timing your ESC adds as the rpms increase. I have my Tekin set to 1 second delay, +2 degrees up to 20 degrees total. You can watch it max out then its like it shifts gears and rockets away. My motor is either 8 or 16 degrees depending on traction.

I woke up late and didnt get to make it to Mikes early enough to race. I believe my gearing was at 72/26 for non boosted. I had no problem clearing any of those jumps and was putting down mid 17 lap runs. For comparisons, I run 75/25 with the 17.5 fully boosted now. So, it may be more in the gearing you have.
Derek

Does anyone use outerwears or chassis covers??

Just want to know if I should get one and how well they work?