SC10 4x4 Thread
#1
Should not have to replace the washer's or shims
#2
Use the Factory shims (#91007)
#3 The out drives can get a bit worn out after many, many packs.
When you see a big notch in the out drives where the pin rides or the pins on the CVA have
hooks on the ends, then its time to replace ....
Should not have to replace the washer's or shims
#2
Use the Factory shims (#91007)
#3 The out drives can get a bit worn out after many, many packs.
When you see a big notch in the out drives where the pin rides or the pins on the CVA have
hooks on the ends, then its time to replace ....
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 12-04-2011 at 09:36 AM.
1.How often do you replace the washers and diff gears?
2.What washers are you guys using for the diffs? Are you using the diff rebuild kit or have you found different washers?
3.My diff cups have some wear on them from the cv pins. When should you replace diff cups and cvs?
2.What washers are you guys using for the diffs? Are you using the diff rebuild kit or have you found different washers?
3.My diff cups have some wear on them from the cv pins. When should you replace diff cups and cvs?
#1
Should not have to replace the washer's or shims
#2
Use the Factory shims (#91007)
#3 The out drives can get a bit worn out after many, many packs.
When you see a big notch in the out drives where the pin rides or the pins on the CVA have hooks on the ends its time to replace ....
Should not have to replace the washer's or shims
#2
Use the Factory shims (#91007)
#3 The out drives can get a bit worn out after many, many packs.
When you see a big notch in the out drives where the pin rides or the pins on the CVA have hooks on the ends its time to replace ....
You go quite a while on the out drives before replacement is needed.
More wear = a little less forward bite , if the out drives & pins are really worn out they also can snag or catch while making the corner & make problems
if you have some worn or suspect sun shims ?
recommend replacement
More wear = a little less forward bite , if the out drives & pins are really worn out they also can snag or catch while making the corner & make problems
if you have some worn or suspect sun shims ?
recommend replacement
You go quite a while on the out drives before replacement is needed.
More wear = a little less forward bite , if the out drives & pins are really worn out they also can snag or catch while making the corner & make problems
if you have some worn or suspect sun shims ?
recommend replacement
More wear = a little less forward bite , if the out drives & pins are really worn out they also can snag or catch while making the corner & make problems
if you have some worn or suspect sun shims ?
recommend replacement
cameron
hey
I won last night , no practice at all , Tq & checked out in the main ...
Had a couple, one being the Team Ae captain for the area that tried real hard to keep up ....
The truck has been amazing , cept for a spur gear replacement , not one part has worn out or broken ...
I have not touched it sense it came back to Milwaukee last spring...( did try the pin & removed )
Been looking at saddle packs real hard , maybe soon...
hey
I won last night , no practice at all , Tq & checked out in the main ...
Had a couple, one being the Team Ae captain for the area that tried real hard to keep up ....

The truck has been amazing , cept for a spur gear replacement , not one part has worn out or broken ...
I have not touched it sense it came back to Milwaukee last spring...( did try the pin & removed )
Been looking at saddle packs real hard , maybe soon...
Pic of front diff wear
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1323021271
Pic of rear diff wear
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1323021280
Also a few pics of my chassis brace. Guy before me made it to keep the belt cover from warping. Seems to keep chassis flex down.
Last edited by Resqnu; 12-04-2011 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Updated
Resqnu
don't think those parts are gone yet , you can use quite a bit longer ...
If you replaced them with brand new ?
Doubt you would notice a improvement in performance....
BTW
interesting chassis brace guy
don't think those parts are gone yet , you can use quite a bit longer ...

If you replaced them with brand new ?
Doubt you would notice a improvement in performance....
BTW
interesting chassis brace guy
I first bought the 3800kv with my mmp. It was fast but I was getting passed and etc.I had 62/13 and I run thunder power lipo. Keep in mind it's not sensored motor. So after doing some homework, I got rx8/pro 4 4000kv sensor wire. It's fast. I'm sure many will agree, I'm not down playing your system. The reason I say that is bc I had that system first. I'm 1000000% sure. 

I'd say you were getting passed because your didn't have enough gear, to small of a pinion. With 13/62 the truck is geared for a little under 30mph. Hitting max RPM way to soon.
I run the 3800 and rx8, I run 15/62, plenty of grunt and plenty of top speed, w/ temps around 130-140. 15/62 is closer to 34mph.
All things equal the 3800 and 4000 should be very close to each other in performance.
Check out the chart for gearing and mph.... Note that battery voltage effects MPH. The top chart is at 7.4v, the bottom chart is at 8.4V. Nominal voltage for a 2s lipo and fully charged voltage for a 2s.
Could someone put the MPH/gearing chart on the front page? This chart could stop alot of needless "PINION" questions.
cameron
hey
I won last night , no practice at all , Tq & checked out in the main ...
Had a couple, one being the Team Ae captain for the area that tried real hard to keep up ....
The truck has been amazing , cept for a spur gear replacement , not one part has worn out or broken ...
I have not touched it sense it came back to Milwaukee last spring...( did try the pin & removed )
Been looking at saddle packs real hard , maybe soon...
hey
I won last night , no practice at all , Tq & checked out in the main ...
Had a couple, one being the Team Ae captain for the area that tried real hard to keep up ....

The truck has been amazing , cept for a spur gear replacement , not one part has worn out or broken ...
I have not touched it sense it came back to Milwaukee last spring...( did try the pin & removed )
Been looking at saddle packs real hard , maybe soon...
Send me your set up for TRCR. I will need a good starting point for the shoowdown coming up. (e-mail- [email protected]). I was thinking of trying saddles just to cave in and try what the pro's are running.I have run pinned and not and still on the fence on which works for me best. Drove a few laps with Jacks truck with saddles and liked it in a few spots on the track over mine. I have been running 3oz in with the servo to bring some weight forward and it helped. I think I will be cutting it back to 2oz. (tried up to 5oz)
Sour, go ahead and post a few
here is the chassis like it sits now:

Marcus was on fire last night, as usual. I must admit I have improved greatly in driving skills due to Marcus' help in setup, and trying to follow his lines. Thanks bro 
. I also got to use something new and top secret
thanks to rcshox.com, that is better than pinned or unpinned
it worked awesome, I can now drive much more agressively than with pinned or unpinned setup. its funny watching the losi's struggle to make 10min mains when I can go for 15.... Love this truck. cant wait for the toys 4 tots race next weekend.

. I also got to use something new and top secret
thanks to rcshox.com, that is better than pinned or unpinned
it worked awesome, I can now drive much more agressively than with pinned or unpinned setup. its funny watching the losi's struggle to make 10min mains when I can go for 15.... Love this truck. cant wait for the toys 4 tots race next weekend.



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